Giulia TI finds new home - Page 4

**Andrew** · #46 (**permalink**) 02-25-2009, 08:39 AM

I don't have any pics handy, but I can take some. Early TI door panels (cards) are two-piece, split about halfway up. Mine are not complete, so I might be interested if they're the right kind.

Yes, my doors have screw-type hinges. My sense is the shift to pin hinges was in 66, but I haven't made a scientific study.

Andrew

alfavirusnz · #47 (**permalink**) 02-25-2009, 12:32 PM

Regarding that instrument cluster do you know whether the rev counter works? I would be interested in the instrument cluster if in reasonable condition.
Also swinging on the carb/manifold etc etc as mine runs a 1750 and half pie tempted to convert car back to std but hard to get a 1600 engine.

**alfa2go** · #48 (**permalink**) 02-25-2009, 03:52 PM

Hi Andrew, just checked my door cards and they are one piece. Must be from a later Giulia. I have a couple of those early hinge doors I thought were ok for my Super, but too much hassle to try and change the hinge system over.
RichardJ, I can take some pics of the instrument cluster, clear flat plastic is scratched but would be easy replacement I would think, but how do I check the tacho when removed from the car? Also have an early unshaved 1600 head (no tabs on front) I may clear as well. Still saving for my paintjob!

Anyway enough offtopic for me, sorry Andrew. Are you keeping the Dunlop brakes?

**Andrew** · #49 (**permalink**) 02-25-2009, 07:43 PM

Yes, plan to keep the car utterly stock, even returning to it a 105.14 1600 block after decades with a Junior engine it. I've converted a couple Dunlop cars to ATE, but plan to learn to rebuild Dunlops this time, and keep the 5.12 rear end.

All the door panels are two-piece, a grey rubber stuff on the top half and red vinyl on the bottom. Seats are tan, so I can't say whether it would have come that way. I'm missing the bottom (vinyl) half of the right front door panel. With the many later TI variants countries other than the US got, I'm not surprised there are different varieties.

Andrew

**Andrew** · #50 (**permalink**) 02-25-2009, 07:51 PM

I should say every US-market TI I've ever owned (several) have had this door panel setup. All of these cars were 1965 or earlier.
Andrew

**robtechno** · #51 (**permalink**) 02-25-2009, 08:17 PM

Very nice car Andrew it has a lot of patina, keep it that way. o doubt that the 1600 engine is the right choice. There seems to be an article in this month Hemmings magazine about my old White Super that I sild a couple of months ago to Mike Hemsley.

keep up the good work and Happy Motoring
Rob

alfavirusnz · #52 (**permalink**) 02-25-2009, 11:00 PM

I`d say the door panels are likely to be correct . My `65 1600 Ti has the 2 piece door panel but one colour an orangey tan with the seats matching and I can`t see the seats not matching the doors so my guess would be the seats probably were red originally as it is more likely the seats were changed due to wear compared to door panels, which generally do not get knocked around much. Even allowing for a little Italian design flair I cannot see charcoal ,red and then tan being a paticularly great combination, even in 1965.

alfavirusnz · #53 (**permalink**) 02-25-2009, 11:12 PM

Derek, re that rev counter you can only tell by fitting. Mine looks alright but spring stuffed so needle flicks around all over the place .When idling it flicks from the needle stop to 3000rpm and once revving highly optimistic initially then very pessimistic -so a useless gadget at moment. Can be fixed but if I can get a replacement at a reasonable cost I`m ahead as I`ve still got body repairs to do , paint, engine (smoky1750), interior carpets and master cylinder (I am keeping the Dunlops -had them on Jags & Lancias I`ve owned in past and were perfectly satisfactory).

**Andrew** · #54 (**permalink**) 03-10-2009, 07:40 PM

Actual progress has begun. I need to get an order together for AlfaStop, so I figure I'll get Dunlop brake parts at the same time. So I pulled off the LF caliper and the LR slave cylinder. I already have a front rebuild kit, and it removing the front pads I could move the pistons back and got slight hydraulic fluid movement, so the pistons are not totally frozen. On the rear, the slave cylinder came off fine, but I'm wary of the condition of the piston. There are two type of slave cylinders, according to AS, and mine are the "metal cap" retention type rather than the "circlip" retention type. With a cast iron cylinder, I fear the whole unit may be one rusted assembly. We'll see. Here are the front caliper and rear slave, soaking in Palmolive (teehee).

The underside of the car is phenomenal. Wheelwells show original paint and seam sealer. This car led some kind of charmed life, at least part of the time.

Holding off on engine work as I'm in the middle of my 750 Berlina engine, and it's confusing enough by itself without having a second engine going at the same time to throw me even farther off.

Andrew

**velocedoc** · #55 (**permalink**) 03-10-2009, 11:28 PM

Andrew, what I used to do was put some silicone under the seal when I reassembled the pistons to the caliper. The silicone I used was the type used for spark plug boots. It remains soft and has a fairly good temperature range. If it melts off at the first time you get the brakes smoking hot, at least it offered some protection.

The rust as I remember was around the lip of the caliper which etched into the piston, but that was 30 years ago when I did my last set. Interested to see what you come up with when the units are disassembled.

A tip on the rear setting. Use the feeler gauge to set the clearance. I think the book will specify what that is. Any tighter and the rear end will lock up first and the results are not nice. I put my TI in the ditch. Fortunately the car was nearly stopped when it happened and no damage other than to my ego.

**Andrew** · #56 (**permalink**) 03-15-2009, 03:04 PM

Thanks to Dave and Michele, I came home yesterday with the complete Dunlop 5.12 axle out of their TI, removed recently to install a 4.56 with ATEs. Dave said the brakes had worked great (they changed the axle for the ratio, not the brakes), and he was right; some air pressure in the pipe system on the axle caused both slave cylinders to actuate. Whoppee.

I got them apart successfully (see pic) and will order rebuild kits from AlfaStop tomorrow. They are the same "metal cap" piston retention type as on my car.

Thanks to Dave and Michele.

Andrew

**Andrew** · #57 (**permalink**) 03-15-2009, 06:06 PM

Well, as long as I was at it, I decided to tackle the front calipers too. Both pretty crusty, and front the look of the pad thickness, some pistons were moving and some weren't. On these Dunlops, the outer piston and cylinders are bolted to the main caliper piece, joined hydraulically by pipes, not passages and o-rings as on ATEs.

Got my trusty air hose and popped the left caliper's inner piston out OK; the outer one was more reluctant, and once I removed its cylinder and wiggled it some, an excess of air pressure popped it out, all the way across the room, banging into my engine noise and narrowly missing the nose of my Spider. I've read about this danger, but somehow didn't think it applied to me.

Same story on the right caliper; the inner piston popped out while the outer one was still attached, acting as a safety barrier. The outer one I was a little smarter, and popped it out pointing downwards on my work bench. Must remember that air pressure and hydraulics are very powerful.

All four cylinders look good, but the inner pistons are merely bad and the outer are very bad, quite pitted with rust where there "outside" the hydraulic system beyond the seal. A good reason to keep thick pad in your calipers.

I assume I need new ones, or will need to get these rechromed are turned back to size. I think AS has them, but Jag or other Dunlops systems might fit too, and I'll check. They're very similar to the Dunlops on my MGA Twin Cam, which my dad and I went through a couple times when I was a kid.

Dunno why the picture is sideways.

Andrew

**Andrew** · #58 (**permalink**) 03-29-2009, 05:46 PM

I had five minutes to spare this weekend so I pulled the engine. I did the prelim disconnecting yesterday in about two hours, then today, after Luigi and my unsuccesful attempt to get the crank pulley nut off my Super, yanked the engine out of this car in about 20 minutes, no problem. Took out just the engine, left in the trans.

Pics show engine and cmpt, also that at some time in the past the LF dogbone crossmember attachment needing some welding help, presumably because it was tearing out of the chassis. Also note the right tie rod, bent at the outer end.

This is a 1300 Jr engine with the TI manifold and carb bolted on. I'll pull the ancillaries off this engine to bolt onto whatever 1600 I build for it, then presumably sell the Jr engine. I'm still trying not to build two engines at once, so hoping to hold off doing any engine work til I get my 750 Berlina engine done (crank due back from machining tomorrow).

Andrew

**velocedoc** · #59 (**permalink**) 03-29-2009, 11:12 PM

Now aren't you glad you pulled that motor? Now everything is accessible and open for a close inspection.

Keep posting!

**Andrew** · #60 (**permalink**) 04-02-2009, 02:15 PM

Have sifted my engine piles and the likely victim is AR00514*57866*, a 65 TI engine not original to this car but in the right number range. If its block is in tolerable shape, I'll proceed with it. If not, I have two Super blocks to try. Have crank, head, P&Ls; need to track down some misc items but it's looking good so far.

Andrew