Suggestions on fixing cracked header

[Charlie DiMarco]

Hi Everbody,

I have a IAP V6 header with about 2200 miles on it, that developed a crack on the inside bend of the center tube. There was no wrapping on these pipes and they where mounted snug. Any suggestions on a course of action.
The choices are:
1. Buy a new set, but what brand?
2. Repair weld this defective one and hope the other tubes don't fail.
3. Call IAP and ask for help. (I did this and they said it's past the one year warranty period). So #3 is not a choice anymore.

I have always used AR Ricambi headers on my spiders with very good results. But I'm interested in peoples opinons on V6 headers.

Thanks,
Charlie

[smestas]

I'd go for option #2 just because it seems to be the least expensive route and I'm cheap.

Is IAP the manufacturer of the headers or are they just a distributor? You might still be able to get them fixed or replaced buy the manufacturer if they have good customer service. Just a thought.

[GreyGTV6]

Quote:

Originally Posted by smestas I'd go for option #2 just because it seems to be the least expensive route and I'm cheap. Is IAP the manufacturer of the headers or are they just a distributor? You might still be able to get them fixed or replaced by the manufacturer if they have good customer service. Just a thought.

[Keven]

I would have it repaired, ask the welder to look at the rest of the
welds, and repair any other suspect ones.
IMO those welds look really weak and pretty ugly and pathetic.
IAP should be informed of the quality of parts they are getting
from vendors, and possibly get their headers from another source.
There is no excuse for a header shop to have such sloppy welds.
A TIG welder will make very beautiful welds easily. Those welds
look like soemthing I would do with my flux cored wire MIG welder

[nicke]

When my IAP headers blow-up, I'll get a set of CSC headers...I should have gotten those in the first place, but I was cheap... The IAP headers where a chore to mount, and ate a starter motor... As your headers are out, make sure you have a heat-sheild or wrap for the starter motor (se above).

So to to follow my own advice I'd say, #2 and then #1 with CSC headers.

Cheers, Nick

[ossodiseppia]

It looks to me like a defective header. The crack seems to go through a seam. How long ago did you get the header? I'd plead my case with management at IAP.

If all else fails, I'd fix it too. If it were cast iron, I'd say pitch it, but this looks like an easy fix.

[Charlie DiMarco]

Thanks for the quick responses! I do have to move fast on this situation to make it up to Concorso Italiano next week.

Smestas - When did you become cheap? Maybe since you pick up the GTV.
These are IAP house brand headers.

GreyGTV6 - I tried the sweet talk first. Customer service asked me to write a letter that they would present to the higher ups. I did then called back a week latter and the higher ups said "Past the FUll 1 year manufacturers warranty"

Keven - I agree the quality of fabrication of these headers is very low.
The bends have marks left on them which causes stress risers. Thats where this crack occured. And the welds are done with a MIG and appear very ugly.
Quality shops TIG weld.

Nicke - I will add a heat shield to the starter. And consider CSC headers in the near future.

Ossodiseppia - Defective for sure, the headers where purchased June of 03.
And have only 2200 miles on them. I talked to IAP not asking for free replacement headers although that would be nice. But maybe a little help by the way of a discount on a replacement.

OK guys, looks like the #2. Re weld the crack, inspect and repair as needed, put them back on and get to Monterey!

[Keven]

Charlie,

Sad to hear that IAP does not stand behind its products.
I could understand if the issue was wear or improper
intalation, but this is clearly a defect (not to mention
a poorly made product from the get go).

I thought IAP made a big deal out of the fact that they
use their products, thus know that they are good?
Looking at those welds makes me believe else wise.

Do we have an IAP rep here on the BB? Maybe he/she could
chime in as to why Charlie has not gotten some help.
It makes me really think as to wether I should ever order
anything from IAP again, I want a vendor that stands behind
their product.... Just my 2cents

[smestas]

I feel a "Get Charlie New Headers" movement growing.

[Gary Williams]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlie DiMarco Ossodiseppia - Defective for sure, the headers where purchased June of 03. And have only 2200 miles on them. I talked to IAP not asking for free replacement headers although that would be nice. But maybe a little help by the way of a discount on a replacement.

[GreyGTV6]

This board needs a forum for suppliers. Unless I've missed it somewhere, I've found a list of approved suppliers but it does not cover incidents like this. I can understand IAPs stance as the part is out of warranty. The part could also be broken by various factors like an incorrectly installed exhaust putting a side load or stress on the header, a broken engine mount, or even the exhaust taking a huge knock that could cause the header to break. Yes, I know it's pushing the realms of realism but those are the types of arguments they could use.

Putting this right would buy them a lot of good will, but it also sets a precedent that voids all future warranties and they could be liable for replacing a part 2 or 3 years after the normal warranty. I've had a bad experience with a company called Spy Engineering where the photo of the wheels was substantially different to the wheels supplied. The original order was also for 17x8" wheels but they supplied 17x7" wheels.

They refuse to make good on the problems and I am out Can$1,500 and all Derek at Spy Engineering says "Steve, the problem is on your end, and those wheels are no good to me".

I propose a forum where grievances like this can be posted as a warning to other members. I realise it could become a slanging board for the smallest incident, but $1500 is an expensive lesson. So remember Spy Engineering, and steer clear of them.

Regarding the headers, from the photo the quality does not look good. The metal seems very thin and the welds look like bird droppings.

[otteud]

Weld the headers, they will work just fine. Must support the middle section of the exhaust to relieve the weight issues as per the original system. This may have help to crack the headers.