Firstly, I want to thank all of those before me who have posted threads on our transmissions. I did a ton of reading and learned a lot from you. Thank you.
Special thanks to Papajam, who walked me through this over several calls. He always takes my calls and never makes me feel foolish for asking all those newbie questions. A true Mentor in every sense of the word.
Honorable mention goes to Alfar7, Gordon Raymond, ARwrench, racingswim2006, who all helped me on several other threads I posted during the build and mcola who visited during the build and caught a bad throw out bearing for me. If I missed anyone, thank you.
During my preparation for the rebuild, I could find quite a few threads on transmissions rebuilds but I couldnt find a complete thread on dissassembly AND assembly. As of tonight, I am at the point of re-sealing the cases, so no excuses from me.
I am writing this thread from my perspective, the ultimate "dummies series user". I'm no mechanic but can follow instructions pretty well. This means tons and tons of pictures.
The thread is meant for the novice like me, so the experienced people in the group may find it a bit much. Fair warning.
My motivation was the start of 2nd and 3rd gear grind.
My plans going in was:
Apply the 1st Gear fix found on the AlfaBB
All new syncro rings
All new syncro sleeves
Dog gear replacement on 1st, 2nd and 3rd
And of course whatever Alfa surprises await :grin2:
Like I said, there are a lot of pictures, so be patient with me as I post.
For the shift forks, you want to inspect the areas that ride on or touch the sides of the syncro sleeves. Basically looking for wear. There is a measurement that will be taken but that is together with the syncro sleeves a bit later. For my forks, the 1/2 and 3/4 were fine. The 5th/reverse had some issues though.
Here is the 5th/reverse that shows signs of burning and burs on the end that controls the reverse idler gear. Need a new fork here.
Here are all the syncro sleeves (some call them sliders) in car position. Left to Right, 4/3 2/1 R/5.
We are looking for signs of wear in the groove (gap measurement coming up with forks) but more importantly, looking for wear on the inside. Here is the 2nd gear side. You can see that the tips are not sharp, but more blunt. This is the part that mates up with the dog teeth on the gears and these two parts are the grinding that you hear. If your dog teeth are worn, so should the corresponding syncro sleeve teeth.
If your sleeves have never been changed, you can see what they looked like leaving the factory, even today. Since there is no syncro for reverse, the reverse side of the R/5 syncro sleeve has never been used. Here you can see the top was the reverse side. Nice and sharp! So nice!
If you want, you re use this sleeve by just turning it around since it was never used. I chose to use a new one as I didnt want any gap issues with the new fork.
Here is a picture of the new syncro sleeves. They are not as sharp as the original, but others have confirmed that they work well.
I would think about getting another bellhousing. The sleeve that the throw out bearing slides on should not come out. You should not be able to pull it out by hand at all.
Here are the syncro rings, again in car position. You are looking for wear. These should be rough to the touch like sandpaper. You can see that on mine, each one has shiny sections where it is smooth. Some even have grooves in them from the dog teeth
This is an easy decision, change them all!
Here is the 2nd gear dog teeth and corresponding syncro ring
And the groove in the syncro ring left by the dog teeth
These are the big issue when it comes to grinding. You are looking for sharp teeth that will engage with the syncro sleeves. The more blunt, the more grinding.
Again, thanks to jcslocum for these clear examples of what to look for. Here we see blunt and sometimes even missing teeth.
Here is 5th, where there is little wear. Nice and sharp
Here is my 2nd gear, where we can see the blunt tips and burrs forming on the edges.
As for the gears themselves, you are looking for broken or chipped or missing pieces, signs of great wear. You must inspect the gears on both the mainshaft and layshaft.
Here is a picture of one of the gears. The dog teeth are pressed on, but you can see the helical cut gear.
All of my gears, 1 through 5 were good, however the reverse showed some issues.
The teeth were not sharp and were blunt, especially on the idler. When looking at the reverse gear on the mainshaft and on the layshaft they too showed signs of wear. The transmission was not jumping out of reverse (a sign of worn teeth on the gears) but it was certainly well on its way.
It was recommended to replace all 3 parts as a set so I contacted a local retired Alfa shop and he had a used set. They aren't new, but they are better than what I had and were a reasonable cost. I will pay special attention to touch another gear before I put it in reverse to avoid this from happening again.
Here is the used idler on the right and the original on the left. Not new, but better.
For all of the dog teeth gears that are worn, you will need to replace them. If you are lucky enough to have donor transmissions, these can be had from 4th and 5th gears as they are typically in great shape, being tall and sharp teeth. Centerline do have some beautiful brand new ones but a bit pricey for me. I ended up getting mine from APE (as well as a set of internals for the 1st Gear Fix coming up).
2nd Gear to start
Remove snap ring as described before
Remove the outer syncro ring, 2 quadrants, and 2 check straps. Put them in a baggie for later.
Note that the cut out of the dog teeth gear is directly in front of one of those, what I believe to be, oil galleys. Important to remember for re installing.
I used the snap ring to press the gear out of the dog teeth. To re install the snap ring (you will get a lot of practice removing and replacing these large rings), start by installing the end with the ear into the cutout of the gear and feed into the groove found on the dog teeth.
Using the snap ring pliers, cover with your hand just in case, start to open the ring by pushing the ear into the cutout and work the snap ring around the groove until it is fully seated all the way around.
Here is the snap ring installed on the gear without all of the syncro guts underneath.
Back to the shop press. Place the 3" gear puller under the snap ring.
Using the 1 1/4" socket to press the gear out is a perfect size
Took some pressure and came off with a SNAP, but off it came. Here you can see that the inside of the dog teeth is keyed as well as the top of the gear.
Gear and dog teeth separated. I will show how to install the "new" dog teeth next when we do the 1st Gear Fix.
Remove the snap ring. Here you can see the difference from the other gears. The large quadrant (top hat) is different shape. There is only 1 check strap and there are 2, not 1, cutout on the dog teeth ring.
Over on the shop press use an appropriate plate that will cover the top of the dog teeth ring.
Voila! Newly pressed dog teeth on 1st Gear
Place NEW syncro ring on so that the cut out of the syncro ring (seen at 6 o'clock) is directly opposite the cut out of the dog teeth gear (seen at 12 O'clock).
Assemble the small quadrant so that it points into the dog teeth ring and the large quadrant points out of the syncro ring. Oh yeah, don't forget the 2 check straps.
Remove and replace all of the the dog teeth rings as you need.
Replace all of the syncro rings (we just did 1st gear) and re assemble gear assemblies.
2nd gear replaced dog teeth and syncro ring replaced.
3rd gear replaced dog teeth and syncro ring replaced. No picture :surprise:!
4th gear will need to back into the bench vise to do all the work.
4th gear syncro ring replaced
5th gear syncro replaced
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