1. All 2000s had front and rear drums.
2. All 2600s had front disks.
3. Some 2600s had rear drums, and later models had rear disks.
4. Early 2000s had manually adjusted drums. Very late ones had self adjusting.
5. It is possible that the early 2600s had the same self adjusting rear drumbrake assemblies as the late 2000, but I don't know.
So the only possible similarity in 2000 and 2600 brakes would be the rear brakes.
I'm an avid reader of your exploits on all things a-2000/2600 Touring, but most of my time is spent next door in the 750/101 Giulietta Forum...
Regarding the glass reservoir, my 0.02 Lira's worth is that Giulietta's sold in France were also required to have a glass brake fluid reservoir and this was due to Safety Legislation of the time which stated that the level of brake fluid had to be visible at all times when the bonnet was opened.
Blame the Bureaucracy, in this case it's French & not Italian
Don, I understand the layout between models, I was refering to the uprights.
Ive read they are the same and the bolt up drum to disc is the same as well
Hence the idea one could literally unbolt the drum assy, add the dust shield and disc from a 2600 (or compatible) to covert them
Since the owner has both, I was looking to verify that just to know
We are actually changing the front suspension to a coil over from a Jag XJS, so for me not really an issue.
Thought it interesting that the jag calipers are the same as that part we were keeping and I wanted something more aggressive that matchs our setup
All great info and keeps my brain active as the metal magic happens to the body this summer
Cheers
One of my best friend is the owner of a wonderful 1964 Giulia Spider. His car is originally equipped with a Nivoclair.
My car is equipped with 2 reservoirs. One, "normal", a Girling. The other, in glass, a Nivoclair. I was thinking that this reservoir, which is smaller than the Girling one, was used for the clutch circuit.
But thanks to your answer, I have just check and I can confirm that the Nivoclair is plugged on the break circuit.
Hello, enjoying the thread, and the french nuance between cars
to help your already excellent english (wish my french was even marginally close)
Break=broken/damaged
Brake=part of your car that stop it
Yesterday I received the complementary parts for the brake system :
Master Vac,
4 way connection,
Vacuum valve for the intake manifold,
Vacuum hose.
The master vac is the one installed on Austin Healey 3000 : It is much more reliable than the 2600 Girling which vacuum piston is sometime a nightmare.
All parts purchase to English car spare parts dealers which prices are unbeatable.
Concerning the engine :
Do you know where I can find new pistons and new valve ?
For a 2000, all the regular sources should have internal engine parts. OKP and Classic Alfa are my favorites.
I've had Pistons made by both JE and Venolia. The last two engines I built I used JE pistons organized By "Top End Performance" in Southern California. They also renewed my connecting rods. We reduced the diameter of the wrist pins (and hole in the piston) to reduce the oscillating mass.
If you are going to overhaul your cylinder head, I recommend you find a shop that can convert your valves to a 9mm stem instead of the original 10. This will make it much easier to adjust the valve clearances.
There are two approaches that I can imagine to achieve 9mm stem.
The valves in the FNM 2300 have a 10mm stem, but 9mm tip. They will fit the standard guide. I believe the spring retainers and keepers are different as well. Not sure where you would obtain these parts, but they certainly exist somewhere.
A good machine shop could also find valves with 9mm stems that have the correct heads and lengths. It is no big deal to locate, or fabricate, guides that would fit the head and stem. Also, retainers, keepers, and springs can be specified to suit.
The key is a top quality shop with a history of vintage and/or racing work.
I have a switch, on the left side of the wheel, under the dashboard.
I cannot dismount this part : Is this part original ? If yes, how can I dismount it (the button appears stuck to the axis). If it is not original, I will destroy the button.
Given the diameter of the wires (and the fact that there seem to be three wires), could this be a substitute for the original light switch, which seems to be missing in the picture you posted earlier (only 2 knobs visible on the left side of the steering column)?
By the way, the "floating tappet" is unique to the 102, and perhaps the 1900. I do not know where to obtain new ones, but have read of a couple of companies that might fabricate them to order. They would not need to be changed to accommodate 9mm stems. You would replace them as a function of their condition, or if you were to install new or different cam shafts.
The floating tappet are available at OKP (Retro Rosso for the french market).
Today I open the gear box to see how it is inside (I had a lot of trouble with the 2600 gear box) :
Very dirty but everything looks good (all the teeth are here).
Concerning the 2nd : The wolf teeth (I don't know what is the english name, I'm talking about the small teeth in front of the speed gear) look a little bit damaged. That could be the sign that the synchronizing ring is a little bit worm.
How can I know that the synchronizing ring should be change ?
That looks very new, or at least fresh. I'm not really a gearbox guy, but most of the synchros I've seen used up showed little to no grooves on one or both sides.
Serge those little "wolf" teeth should be slightly pointed with a slight angle on the top, they look 'tres bon' in your picture, similarly the grooved syncro ring also looks 'tres bon'
Those are the early syncro rings and will require the correct Dentax oil (huile) without the EP additives of modern oils.
Greig,
The trick to use the 5th gear synchroniser ring to replace the 2nd one is very clever !
But to access to the 2nd gear ring, you must disassemble the ball bearing on the right. To do so, you are obliged to push with a press on the axe while fixing the external cage of the ball bearing. The effort goes through the ball and might damage them no ?
The ball bearings of this gear box look all good. I still have to wash and degrease them to be sure, but they seams OK.
So, if my second gear synchroniser ring don't need to be change I prefer to leave it and not take the risk to damage the ball bearing.
Do you thing I can leave such synchroniser ring ?
I read your link regarding the first gear : amazing => Thank you. I will check that on an old 2600 gear box and probably use its parts to upgrade the 2000 gear box.
The bearings are not that tight on the shaft &I have never damaged one pulling them off, also my pullers are for bearings and shaped like [( )] to go around the shafts and support the bearing as much as possible.
I also heat the gears with a hand held propane torch to expand them and they either come off or go on really easily when warm & expanded
It depends on what the syncro ring looks like, the dog teeth (wolf teeth) are also very important to the syncro action.
It may be that your gearbox was rebuilt already, it would be better to have someone who knows these boxes check it out for you in person.
** the new Goetze syncro rings sold by Classic Alfa etc are for the newer type synchromesh (EP oil containing Molybdenum) & the parts are NOT interchangeable with the older type (Dentax or NON-EP oil) that you have here **
Salut
Greig
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