105 Competition Suspension Set Up

[genericwood]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Berlinista So : question: Why not you guys?? What have we got wrong?

[Berlinista]

Since I'm into old metal and not into new software, posting pics is a very long and tedious process.
But!
Check out www.trofeo.nl
Find it all there. the orange and white stepfront is the runner up car.
For more info, check out some topics on www.alfaclub.nl , on the forum. there is a link to the Trofeo Competition and the 147 Cup.
If this is no use let me know and I'll see what I can do!
Rik

[Berlinista]

'Scuse me. that's www.alfaromeochallenge.com !Check out!

[77SpideRacer]

Is the an "off the shelf" panhard rod available? Or does someone have plans/dimensions for one? I'm not opposed to a little fabrication but if there is one avaliable I may be interested.

[genericwood]

Jack Beck (www.orionmotorsports.com) offers both "bolt-in" and "weld-in" panhard kits. Jack's stuff is never cheap, but it is always top quality. I think Andy Kress (www.performatek.com) is now offering a Watts link set up.

Erik

Quote:

Originally Posted by 77SpideRacer Is the an "off the shelf" panhard rod available? Or does someone have plans/dimensions for one? I'm not opposed to a little fabrication but if there is one avaliable I may be interested.

[conedriver]

Jeff,

There's more to this than just adding a panhard bar. The stock T-Arm provides both fore and aft, and sideways axle location. The panhard bar provides sideways axle location and lowers the rear roll center from the T-Arm attachment point on the differential. In order for a Panhard bar to function, the sideways axle locating function of the T-Arm must be removed otherwise the two features will have slightly conflicting geomety. The T-Arm must be replaced by an upper heim-jointed link/arm that only controls fore and aft axle movement.

Both the Performatek and Orion (Beck) panhard rod products have this new upper link. The T-Arm is replaced by a long brace that attaches to the original mountings at each side of the car, then the single link is attached to this brace with a heim joint. The other end of the link attaches to the long bolt at the top of the differential, also with a Heim joint.

Also, the chassis end of the panhard rod must be attached to a substantial brace that connects downward from the front edge of the trunk floor. This part is subject to considerable forces during cornering (as well as onto the upper link brace). I have had different areas of the Orion part on my car break three different times... However, the conversion is is 15 years old

I saw the Performatek parts at the AROC National Convention last year, but it's not on the website (however, the neat Watts link is: at $1199.00). The panhard bar kits aren't cheap, either. I think the Orion parts are around $900/$1000 for the panhard bar and uper link kit.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 77SpideRacer Is the an "off the shelf" panhard rod available? Or does someone have plans/dimensions for one? I'm not opposed to a little fabrication but if there is one avaliable I may be interested.

[77SpideRacer]

Anyone have pics that they could post or send me?

[conedriver]

Jeff,

Check out this website (from an Alfa racing digest discussion of shimming LSD's). Great pictures of Watts link, plus a brace that can replace the T-Arm. Should be applicable for Watts link or Panhard bar since both of these need the sideways locating function of the T-Arm to be disabled.

http://www.brandmaker.no/bertone/watts.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by 77SpideRacer Anyone have pics that they could post or send me?

[Berlinista]

www.alfaholics.com
.........
Nice stuff...

[RtbRacer]

Don't worry about coil-overs. But spend your money on adjustable shocks. They were worth about 3 seonds on my car. They aren't useful unless constantly adjusted.

Richard

[Max Banks]

Quote:

Originally Posted by RtbRacer Don't worry about coil-overs. But spend your money on adjustable shocks. They were worth about 3 seonds on my car. They aren't useful unless constantly adjusted. Richard

[gtvpete]

Richard,

Care to say what series of Koni double-adjustable shocks worked for you?
thanks,
Peter

[Max Banks]

We run 2812 Mk2 Aluminium body Konis. Will probably upgrade to 2822 series 4-way adjustable dampers after this season for ability to have even finer damper set-up!

[RtbRacer]

I run the aluminum bodied ones in the front, and the steel bodied ones in the back, just because they have a better adjustment for the rears if they are steel bodied.

Richard

[PSk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max Banks And only good ones too!!! Koni double adjustables really sorted our race car out, don't go for one size fits all Spax AVO etc...... waste of time!!!