Can an engine run too cool?

[GTV4EVR]

I'm running a 2 litre 200hp engine in my GTV vintage race car. Even after a 25 minute race on a hot day the water temperature doesn't go above 150F. The oil temp is running just over 200F. The car has a BIG Griffin aluminum rad. If I leave the car running too long on the pre grid the water temp does go up so the gauge works Should I be blocking off part of the rad?
Thanks!!

[ghnl]

Does it have a thermostat? If not, why not? If it does the thermostat is either set too low (although I've never heard of a 150F thermostat) or stuck 'open'.

[mikegtveloce]

Same thing on my track car. I had all the same questions, but don't worry the temp is OK. You will likely see the temp coming up on a hot day. But, it sounds like you have good cooling, and you are good to go.

[genericwood]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTV4EVR I'm running a 2 litre 200hp engine in my GTV vintage race car. Even after a 25 minute race on a hot day the water temperature doesn't go above 150F. The oil temp is running just over 200F. The car has a BIG Griffin aluminum rad. If I leave the car running too long on the pre grid the water temp does go up so the gauge works Should I be blocking off part of the rad? Thanks!!

[GTV4EVR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by genericwood Ken, sounds like you need to flog it a little harder! When I had it at Mid-Ohio, I think it ran about 180-190 in the race. But that was Ohio in June. Maybe a little hotter than in Canada? Also remember, the guy who built the car was in Arizona, so the cooling system might be a little over-done! I wouldn't worry about 150 degrees, but it might make better power at 180. But do make sure you get the oil temp up before running it hard!

[genericwood]

That's awesome, Ken! You look just like Mark Weber.

[GTV4EVR]

Being alone in your class has its benefits. I seem to remember MW had a little competition.

[GTVguy]

hey Ken, which radiator did you get? my original radiator is almost dead (~40% blocked due to many old patches) and i'm thinking of replacing. got a quote for a re-core of $385, i believe a new-ish replacement is also ~$400... thanks.

[GTV4EVR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTVguy hey Ken, which radiator did you get? my original radiator is almost dead (~40% blocked due to many old patches) and i'm thinking of replacing. got a quote for a re-core of $385, i believe a new-ish replacement is also ~$400... thanks.

[GTV4EVR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghnl Does it have a thermostat? If not, why not? If it does the thermostat is either set too low (although I've never heard of a 150F thermostat) or stuck 'open'.

[PSk]

I'm a great believer, for water and oil, in running slightly larger than you need radiators and then a thermostat (yes for oil also) so everything is kept perfectly under control. Then I can almost forget the gauges and hammer the living cr@p out of the car all race meeting long .

The last thing you want to be worried about when trying to work out how to pass somebody and get your first win is the health of your car, thus design it so it can be raced HARD and give you the results you deserve .

I learnt this from racing a Sud that struggled to keep control of it's water temperature and caused me undue stress about whether to continue or not. I also had the same problem with a club car I built so sorted it by doing what I said above. End of problem and then 100% of my focus was able to return to driving the car ... and of course results improved!
Pete

[Curtis]

I agree but have had so many oil thermostats fail over the years I finally gave up on them. If you have thermostatic water temperature control and modern reasonable weight synthetic oil I am hoping oil temp on the low side isn't going to hurt anything?