Modifing your throttle pedal

[msiert]

Just learing the basics like proper hand placement,proper seating position, weight transfer,learning the proper apex, breaking points and heel and toe downshifting. The last one has me puzzeled.

In a late model Spider the throttle pedal is higher than the brake peddel at full braking. I have read that you can modify the throttle peddel by adding a block in my case I took a peice of metal and bent it so when I am brake the throttle pedal is level with the brake pedel. So I can just slide my foot over to goose thr throttle,

Do anyone else modfy their throttle pedals?

Do you think I am getting ahead of myself for my first time on the track? I do drive a 5 speed for my every day driver and I have modify that cars throttle so I have time to work on it before the driving event.

[JoeCab]

The term "Heel and Toe" is really a misnomer, as the throttle blipping is usually done with the side of the foot, not the heel. If you think of it this way, it can be done comfortably even with the throttle slightly higher than the brake pedal.

Joe

[PSk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeCab The term "Heel and Toe" is really a misnomer, as the throttle blipping is usually done with the side of the foot, not the heel. If you think of it this way, it can be done comfortably even with the throttle slightly higher than the brake pedal. Joe

[conedriver]

Remember, the old cars used to have the gas pedal between the brake and clutch. This was supposed to be a more natural position when the ball of the foot was on the brake and the heel was used to blip the gas. The ball of the foot is used on the brake, since this has greater sensitivity and the brake needs more accurate modulation than the gas. If you look carefully in the picture, you can see the gas pedal is a round button between the brake and clutch pedals.

There's another way to obtain level brake and gas pedals; I added a spacer to the brake pedal. You can create a false brake pedal out of 1/8 in. steel, and space this outward from the original brake pedal by three bolts (with flat heads countersunk into the new pedal). Place the rubber pad on the new pedal, and you're in business.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeCab The term "Heel and Toe" is really a misnomer, as the throttle blipping is usually done with the side of the foot, not the heel. If you think of it this way, it can be done comfortably even with the throttle slightly higher than the brake pedal. Joe

[PSk]

Thanks Conedriver you are right ... when I said 'Toe' on the brake, ofcourse it really is the 'ball' of your foot. I was stuck in the heal and toe methodology

Pete

[Jorge Mazlumian]

Quote:

Originally Posted by msiert Just learing the basics like proper hand placement,proper seating position, weight transfer,learning the proper apex, breaking points and heel and toe downshifting. The last one has me puzzeled.

[genericwood]

There might not be a lot of Alfas on the road in Omaha, but one of the most successful Alfa racers of the last couple decades is in your town! Jack Beck at Orion Motorsports races a GT Junior in SCCA's GT-5 class. He also builds engines and chassis for lots of the rest of us.

If your Spider is stock, I would suggest a shift point of 6000 or so. A stock 2L will turn more, but won't deliver much more power beyond that. Will you be running your car on the newer track in Glenwood, IA?

Erik

[BigSwede]

In my opinion the first day ever on track is all about staying calm and watching the mirrors.

My gas pedal is a good 5cm higher then my brake pedal during braking but toe-heeling is not a problem for me using the technique described above; ball of foot on brake and blipping with the heel.

Good luck and stay calm.

[60sRacer]

One of the best ways to choose a shift point is to watch the rpm of the higher gear. You want to shift up and down when the higher gear is at an rpm that isn't giving you enough torque to accelerate (note: in racing you are always either accelerating or braking hard; that and a good line that doesn't scrub speed is how you get fast times).

So if you up shift at 4500 rpm, the next gear is likely to be near 3500 and the engine will bog down; you need to run to a higher rpm to keep the next gear working well. Injected street engines have a flatter torque curve, so don't get too bogged when shifting. Highly tuned race engines with a lot more HP are usually very 'peaky' and need to be kept in a narrow rpm band to perform best (this is why racers use close ratio gearsets).

Alfas are sweet racers and will tell you all you need to know just by sound and feel. Practice and learn the sound and feel of the 'right' shift points and you will find that you don't need to look at the tach much (more time to watch the mirrors if you're reacing with others).

Racing is very much a 'feel' thing, very zen-like. When you've got it right its like watching a really good pair dance a tango. Just beautiful, fluid motion.

Robert