Volvo 240 caliper conversion?

[Travis_k]

Has anyone done this? If so I have a couple of questiions. Can you still use the stock milano rotors? Or do you have to use ones from a 164 or ? I tried searching but I didnt see a clear answer to that question. Also, does the pedal travel increase at all with the volvo calipers? I can already press the pedal almost to the floor on a hard stop with the stock brakes, so if it increases noticably with the volvo stuff that may not be a good idea.

[Gerhard]

I have done it. You have to find a solution for feeding the two entrances of the calipers, there are different ways to do that. The original discs are too small in diameter, bigger ones are necessary. Easiest solution (probably not the cheaperst) would be the SZ/RZ discs.
Pedal travel was no issue in my case.

[Greg Gordon]

This conversion is flat out dangerous without bigger rotors. With the stock sized rotors the brakes will suddenly stop working when the pads get worn down to a certain point because they will touch each other rather than the brake rotor. This will happen with essentially no warning.

The Volvo calipers are also quite heavy. My suggestion is to go with the Ron Simmons kit that uses bigger rotors with the stock calipers, or one of the well engineered systems from Barry, Group2, or Performatek.

Greg Gordon,
hiperformancestore.com

[ToonRboy]

I agree with Greg on that one. Performatek has a Wilwood caliper, Supra? rotor combo that is reasonable (and fits under the stock 15" Campys). The best info on the Volvo caliper conversion came from Walt. It's in French http://alfaimola.free.fr/racing/grosfreins/index.html, looks like they used 164 rotors and fabricated a spacer for the hub (to adjust the offset of the rotor), which in turn required longer wheel studs. - I was kinda wondering why they just didn't fabricate a spacer for the caliper instead? Anyway, not for a beginner.

You know, there's really no problem with the stock set-up. If your pedal is going to the floor, you got other problems. You might want to verify the front rotor thickness. The difference between new and out-of-spec is not much. These rotors can only stand being cut once. If they are original, they're probably too thin. Min. allowable thickness is 20mm (.787 in.) If your rotors are less than that, they need to be replaced. Also, check your pads, your lines, and flush/bleed the fluid. Only use DOT 4 & do not use DOT5 brake fluid. Also, Rear rotors minimum thickness is 8mm (.315 in.)

[hfintegrale]

I think it's a good and cheap idea. With the SZ discs, easy too.

Look this link:

Stichting Club Alfa Romeo Bezitters :: Forum :: Bekijk onderwerp - 75 TS voor een beetje vrijrijden... Update...

Best regards.

Julian

[Duk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by hfintegrale I think it's a good and cheap idea. With the SZ discs, easy too. Look this link: Stichting Club Alfa Romeo Bezitters :: Forum :: Bekijk onderwerp - 75 TS voor een beetje vrijrijden... Update... Best regards. Julian

[Travis_k]

Hmm, it doesnt sound like it is a real great idea then, so I guess i wont do it. That is why i asked before I did anymore than think about it. lol

[Grant]

How much do SZ front rotors cost?

[Travis_k]

One other brake question for anyone who knows, what is the run out on thr front rotors supposed to be? Im guessing that .05mm means they are warped?

[Gerhard]

SZ discs from Tarox are around 400 Euros if I remember right. Ones from Alfa are a bit more expensive.

[Grant]

For the front ones? SZ discs are no longer a reasonable (inexpensive) upgrade for lesser transaxle cars it seems

[eddiealfanut]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duk I am going to say this: Don't use copper tube to make breaklines! Unless it's just an external finish on steel tube in those photos, keep your copper tube on the shelf. It has no place in break systems.

[Duk]

Quote:

Originally Posted by eddiealfanut At the risk of displaying my ignorance (again ) why do you say this. I had read, I think, that copper is less susceptible to vibrational cracking, and less likely to fuse/rust to the terminators... Is this not so? Regards, Ed.

[eddiealfanut]

OK,

Thanks for that reply. I guess what's normally referred to as copper brake pipe over here is actually the 90/10 copper nickle stuff that Volvo (ugghhh ) for one use as standard equip. I think the other stuff is rarely seen and is usually called 100% or pure copper pipe. Interestingly/scarily, after a quick browse I notice that Demon Tweeks (Demon Tweeks Motorsport, Motorcycle, Modifying, Parts and Accessories) list pure copper brake pipe in their motorsports section!!!
Interesting link on the 90/10 stuff here Copper.org: Applications: Automotive - Hydraulic Brake Tube

Ed.

[Gerhard]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Duk 2 reasons. First of all, no car manufacturer uses it. You want any upgrades to be atleast as good as as what a car manufacturer suppies. Second, copper tube work hardens very quickly. I beleive that what you have heard is wrong regarding being less susceptible to vibration cracking. Work hardened copper tube can easily split if then bent/stretched/flattened. Obviously that should be happening in normal use, but abnormal use like rocks or wrong excursions (off the track etc) could crack a work hardened tube where a steel tube would more than likely be bent or twisted out of shape. I know that here in Australia, the Department of Transport don't allow it. The tube in the pictures may have had a copper coating to prevent rust and the lovely fusing effect you mentioned.