Three hole aluminum radiator

[crankCase]

Hi all,
I just completed an aluminum racing radiator swap in a 87 Milano Gold, the only modification to the car is drilling three bracket mounting holes, all for about $200. If anyone is interested I'll post the details.
Regards,
John

[nizam]

That looks good. More details please!

[crankCase]

Objectives:
Replace stock Milano Radiator w/ aftermarket aluminum racing radiator
without modifying car & spending less than $200.00.
Materials list:
From summit racing;
sum-380645 aluminum radiator w/ cap 23.875 in. Wide, 16.0 in. High, 1.75 in. Thick $153
sum-329727 hardware kit for fan bracket $1.50
From home store;
25” x 7 1/2” sheet metal
1” x 7” strap steel
1) double 2x4 joist bracket
5' 1/4” vinyl tubing
RTV sealant
From junk box;
broken fuel pump rubber mount (missing one threaded end, adhoc bumper)
zip tie
radiator fan thermal switch
10' car door weather stripping w/ channel (got from JC Whitney 15 years ago)
4) bolts, nuts & washers
1) sheet metal bolt

Notes: To do this job you need access to a sheet metal brake.
I know that most people won't have an adjustable fan thermal switch
laying around, but I did.
The job would be much simpler ( & lighter) to replace the stock fan w/
an aftermarket unit at the same time but that would have killed my budget.
All joints of dissimilar metal need to be insulated with either the weather
stripping or the vinyl tubing to prevent corrosion.

Follow all safety precautions & use safety gear, goggles, oven mits etc.
Consult repair manual, owners manual or any good advice on proper procedures.

[crankCase]

After draining & removing radiator w/ fan, check dimensions of lower radiator support crossmember, I used 24 13/16” width to clear a/c receiver.
Bend sheet metal into “U” 2 1/2” on a side, open end faces engine, bend up
two 1/4” tabs on top edge then trim edge to 2 1/4”. Drill two mounting holes
to match holes already in crossmember. Trim vertical edges of radiator cutout with weather stripping. Cut two pieces of vinyl tubing & split to cover radiator core bottom support “U”, install lower hose ( you'll need to stretch hose to fit). Remove fan from old radiator, line up on new radiator , marking
3 mounting bracket holes (the lower battery side mount gets the bumper) .
Place radiator in position (it'll fit) trim top edge core support “U” with weather stripping. Cut 2x4 bracket in half, measure & bend to line up with
top fan mount holes (leaving enough room for radiator expansion) you'll notice that they mount opposite from each other. Mark & drill bracket mounting holes in front radiator support panel (remove grille first). Measure & bend 1x7” strap to go around a/c receiver & line up with bottom fan mount
hole. Mark & drill hole for sheet metal screw on inner fender panel (hole #3)
Install carriage head bolts from summit kit into fan brackets you just crafted
(thread end towards engine). Trim top brackets with vinyl tubing on sides
& bolt in place. Install lower bracket w/ sheet metal screw into inner fender.
Install bumper in lower fan bracket hole, battery side. Install fan onto new
brackets with nuts & washers form kit. Adjust fan brackets so fan doesn't
come into contact with radiator but is close. Install bulb from thermal switch
in lower radiator hose “T” use RTV to seal around capillary tube. Install rest
of radiator hoses. Remove bottom pressure seal washer from new radiator
cap. Connect wiring to radiator fan & switch. Fill system w/ coolant. Turn
ignition switch to on (do not start yet), jump wires on thermal switch to
check for proper fan operation. Double check all your work. Start car & bleed system. Be filled with awe & pride at your unbelievable skills.

[crankCase]

Post installation notes:
It hasn't been hot enough around NJ to properly test the cooling, warm up
takes longer, around town is better, on the highway maybe too much cooling. I guestimate this is good up to 200 HP but since I have a stock 2.5 I really couldn't say. I'll post an update when the weather gets warmer & I charge the a/c. I'm still conflicted about thermo switch placement, outlet is stock Alfa placement so thats what I went with. I'd like to update to screw in switch in place of distributer retard in thermostat housing, we'll see.

[nizam]

Thanks for the write-up, CrankCase. Do you have a picture of the radiator while it was outside the car, with the outlets facing towards the camera?

[crankCase]

The only one I have is from the catalog.

[ToonRboy]

Nice work crankCase. I always knew this could be done (for lots less than the $500.00 you usually see 'em at)! I was going to ask you where/how you dealt with the thermo-switch for the fan, but I read through and saw the info

Quote:

Install bulb from thermal switch in lower radiator hose “T” use RTV to seal around capillary tube

[sh0rtlife]

another option would be a small STEEL tube section inserted in line of one of the rad hoses with a nut welded into it for it..cheeper and easyer..not all of us are setup to weld aluminum

keep us posted as to how well it cools the engine....as im eyeballing the same rad for my project but wondered if it was enuf cooling

[crankCase]

Hi all,
System filled with Peak antifreeze & distilled water 50/50 to full mark on res.
Weather conditions:
sunny, 34F, baro 30.35,humidity 52%,avg wind 12mph
All temps are approx from dash temp guage

Cold start to fan turn on, idle, 18 minutes, shows 180F, hood open.
Hood closed, no difference.
Stop & go around town, no faster than 35MPH, no higher than 3kRPM 170-180F
Highway, moderate traffic, 65MPH, 5th gear, 170F
Highway, clear traffic, 40MPH 170-175F
3rd gear acceleration to redline 180F

Next step, charge a/c & wait for warmer weather, I figure a week to ten days.

Regards,
John

[RAGs]

Very nice ... indeed.

Question ... is there a concern about the pressure limit of the radiator cap as opposed to the coolant tank cap? I would assume that the radiator cop needs have a higher pressure limit. Just curious.

[crankCase]

In order for the coolant res to fill the radiator as stock set up , you have to remove the lower sealing washer for the new cap, negating pressure relief. See second photo in part 3 post. I thought I'd have to notch or remove the metal washer also, but it seems to be working OK.

[crankCase]

Hi all,
Weather conditions:
sunny, 58F, humidity 42%,avg wind 10mph
All temps are approx from dash temp gauge.

Sitting in bumper to bumper traffic w/ ac on max (cooling fan not turning on w/ ac) 15 min, 180F. Accelerating up 6% grade, 1 mile on highway moderate traffic,
175F. So at this point I would call the radiator project a success. I'll update
again when summer happens.

Regards,
John

[75evo]

Looks good, but the real test would be in a traffic jam with the A/C turned on in the middle of summer. If the temperature has a problem staying below 185F, you want to look at a bigger fan. I have a Ford Taurus fan in my 164. Only $50 with the shroud on ebay. It's a very powerful unit.

[ToonRboy]

I'm sure you'll have no problems cooling with this setup crankcase, unless something fails. Shouldn't the fan come on automatically when the A/C is engaged? Also, Have you let the car sit idling long enough to make sure the fan comes on when it's supposed to?