How to replace the rear engine mount?

[atikovi]

Can it be done with the bellhousing still in the car? If not, how hard is it to remove the bellhousing? There doesn't seem to be much room to get at the bolts. I already have the driveshaft out to replace the donuts and center support and if I'm this far into it I might as well do this now. BTW, is there anything else I shoud replace?

[75evo]

If you have an air compressor with an air hammer, it shouldn't be too tough. --Unbolt the exhaust downpipe to manifold. Since you are doing the driveshaft I'm assuming your cat is already off.
-Loosen all engine mounts enough so you can tip the engine
-Tip engine backwards and use the air hammer to punch the metal part of the bushing.

Me mechanic took it out in 15 seconds with the air hammer. Of course my bell housing was off the car, so access was not an issue

I haven't done the job with the the engine in the car and no, I don't think the bell housing can be taken of with the engine still in the car.

[BigSwede]

Sure it can, I replaced a gearbox on a 105 Bertone with the engine still in the car and that must be tighter.

[nizam]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigSwede Sure it can, I replaced a gearbox on a 105 Bertone with the engine still in the car and that must be tighter.

[BigSwede]

Wut? I still have eleven fingers just like everybody else...

[junglejustice]

Like they said, loosen the front mounts and the exhaust, tilt the engine, airchissel the old one....

Also, leave your new mounting in the freezer overnight until the m oment of re-insertion....

[atikovi]

I got the exhaust totally off and the driveshaft is out. I raised the engine at the front of the oil pan as far as it would go before the body started lifting (but I didn't loosen the front engine mounts since they look as hard to get to as the bellhousing bolts). Looks like the back of the intake is touching the firewall. The rear mount came down only one inch so I still can't get a straight shot at it with an air hammer. Should I go at it like this or can I drop it down any more?

[Alfisto Steve]

Put that new mount in freezer before you start. Drop front head pipes off exhaust manifold and drop cat down as far as possilble. Then, remove front rubber motor mount's upper 17mm attaching nuts from upper studs and lift and roll engine back so as to lower rear mount lower than you have in picture so mount will clear chassis when you try to remove it. Now try to install a hack saw blade through mount and install hacksaw handle on blade and cut through thin outer wall of mount (not bellhousing). Now get air hammer or hammer and chisel and drive out old mount.

If possible heat up bell housing with a propane torch to expand mount opening. Have a helper and a good fire bottle standing by.

Once mount warmed up, get new mount out of freezer and install it quicly into bell housing.

To reinstall engine on front motor mount you will probalby have to remove left rubber part from car frame and install it loosely on engine then lower engine onto stud of other one enough to start nut without washer. No lower engine slowly enough to get left rubber mount to slip onto stud sticking up from car frame. Jiggle engine around to get nut and washwer on chassis stud and start short bolt into frame. Once everything started lower engine, install washer under nut on right mount upper stud and be sure other washers nuts and bolts all tightened. Support front of engine again so it will be rigid while you reinstall drive shaft. Reinstall head pipes, etc,...

Note: You can remove engine bellhousing with engine in car but it is a job. You have to remove rear starter bolts, flywheel bolts, flywheel then bellhousing. It isn't a fun job to get flywheel bolts out or flywheel back on and bolts torqued. If you do use blue locite on bolts and torque wet.