3.0 Flywheel vs. 2.5 Flywheels - Numbers?

[junglejustice]

Can somebody please help me positively differentiate between the numbers on a 3.0 Milano/75 Verde/Americano or even an SZ Zagato 3.0 12 valve flywheel, versus those stamped on a 2.5 12 valve Milano/75/GTV6 flywheel? (I don't currently have one of each to compare right here, right now...)

[Gabor K.]

Well, I could give you the part numbers if that could help. Cannot tell if they are using the part numbers or some other coding. Did not notice last time I had one in my hands..

[Alfisto Steve]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gabor K. Well, I could give you the part numbers if that could help. Cannot tell if they are using the part numbers or some other coding. Did not notice last time I had one in my hands..

[Gabor K.]

Well, both the 2.5 and 3.0 start with 195 so if these numbers can be seen on the flywheel I could list it up here:

75 3.0L 19546 02040 00 00
75 2.5L 19555 02040 00 00
GTV6 2.5 11668 02040 02
75SZ 3.0 60534816 (new part no. system)

Would be interesting to hear if these numbers can be found on the wheels!

[Barbalatte]

It just happens that I am doing a 3 litre conversion to my GTV6 Racecar and I am looking for a 3 litre flywheel.
The difference for a start is the size. The 2.5 litre flywheel is smaller.

Anybody in Sydney have a spare 3 litre flywheel off a 75? The 164 one is different again.

[Alfisto Steve]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barbalatte It just happens that I am doing a 3 litre conversion to my GTV6 Racecar and I am looking for a 3 litre flywheel. The difference for a start is the size. The 2.5 litre flywheel is smaller. Anybody in Sydney have a spare 3 litre flywheel off a 75? The 164 one is different again.

[Barbalatte]

No, actually, I thought of that, but if you make a spacer, the starter motor won't fit right and won't start the car.

[junglejustice]

There are a few misconceptions here regarding 12 valve flywheels... In addition, you guys should also try to consider the 3 main issues with regards to these flywheels - separately;

1) There is a balance-factor unique to each motor that should be taken in to account! Regardless of the thickness of the actual wheel, or spacer/no spacer on the back, regardless of how far it sticks out, or whether the starter is going to engage or not - the balance-factor in principal is different between a 2.5 flywheel and a 3.0 flywheel. In addition to that basic difference in the actual casting, there are also individual balancing-drillings unique from one flywheel to the next (even within the same "type" of flywheel!)

2) The 3.0 flywheels have a 4mm thicker spacer in the casting on the rear to clear the back of the block! They are easily recognizable because of the thicker spacer (where the flywheel mates to the crank) however, some 2.5 flywheels from the later cars are suspected to HAVE THAT SAME SPACER and can easily be mistaken for a 3.0 flywheel! This is why I asked the original question! Just because it has the spacer in the casting DOES NOT make it a 3.0 flywheel!

3) A 2.5 flywheel CAN be spaced out with an individual spacer-plate between the crank and the flywheel - just like a 3.0 flywheel and it'll work just fine however, now we're back to talking about point number 1 above - the balance-factor. If you were to rebuild an engine (for ultimate conversion in to a TA car), you could just use ANY flywheel and have it balanced with the crank, pistons, rods and the crank-pulley. Just use a spaced-out flywheel (or an individual spacer to a non-spaced flywheel) if you are running a 3.0 block to clear the block and you're good to go!

Any way, I know that Jes simply took a 2.5 flywheel - one WITH the spacer - and bolted that to the rear of his "S" 3.0 engine to make the conversion work in his "Roxanne" Milano track-car (without having the motor rebalanced.) It works and yet at the same time, the cleanest way would be to rebuild and rebalance the motor with whichever flywheel and crank-pulley you are about to use.

In the case of the 24 valve conversion (without opening it up), you HAVE to use a 3.0 flywheel specifically - not for the spacer, but for the balance-factor, OR you have to have the internals rebalanced with the flywheel and the crank-pulley.

So, back to my original question, anybody have the actual numbers stamped on a 3.0 flywheel for me, versus those stamped on a 2.5 flywheel please?

[AR4me]

JJ,
As a last resort, get your black verde on a lift, remove the little cover at the flywheel, and I think you should be able to read the numbers - you may need a little dentist's mirror and practice reading mirrored

If that doesn't work. Isn't it about time to pull that 3.0 12v out of the black car anyway
Jes

[junglejustice]

Good thinking...

Yeah, that poor old ***** - she just still pulls SO strong, that I can't bring myself to do it, but I will soon! Working on the 24 valve right now, but it looks like it's sold now (as part of the deal on the CF hood and trunk-projects...)

Working on the 12 valve 3.0 rebuild, but that has been sold too! Waiting on another 24 valve core headed my way - maybe that one will finally make it in to the Verde!

-Got the GTV6 that will need a motor too and I have yet another 24 valve in the works for that one...

[AR4me]

Done some more thinking... Tell you what, send that 24v down here, and I'll pull my 12v and read the numbers off the flywheel for you
Jes

[junglejustice]

Hey mr. funny-man - we're you a stand-up in a previous life...? I like my humour funny... It's yours if you want it. Dammit! Now I have to find yet another one...

[AR4me]

Hmm, that was easy Let me try this: Can you add 700cc before sending it down?
Jes

[junglejustice]

Sure - just need the keys to the three-point...

[AR4me]

Haha... Now, go to your kitchen window, open the blinds Keys are under the front seat Now wouldn't that be something?
Jes