ABS Problems - Page 2

AR4me · #16 (**permalink**) 11-02-2007, 02:47 PM

I have bought both pump and acc from AC-direct and didn't have a problem. I think your case may be an isolated hick-up (at no consolation to you, I'm sure). Though, perhaps you should just order another one from them for your car.

Jes

**alfaparticle** · #17 (**permalink**) 11-02-2007, 03:00 PM

I just ordered one from GM parts direct. They are making a killing on the shipping charges but I will buy "the experience".
Thanks for your help.
Ed

Grant · #18 (**permalink**) 11-02-2007, 04:36 PM

By the way, A1Cardone does not have anymore Buick ABS pumps in stock right now. You'll either have to buy a new pump or have your Alfa one refurbished if anyone else is reading this.

NMMilano · #19 (**permalink**) 11-04-2007, 06:42 AM

Did you try to change out the pressure switch? its mounted in front of the accumulator, above the pump. After the pump stops running I would try to unscrew the pressure switch (SLOWLY) and see if you have pressure there. The failed accumulator symptons I've seen are different than you discribe. I've seen the pump run continuously (light on) then the pedal became very hard and there was almost no braking effect. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

**alfaparticle** · #20 (**permalink**) 11-04-2007, 01:43 PM

Thanks for the suggestion.
I removed the pressure switch and there was zero pressure behind it. I did not pump the brakes before I removed it. I installed a used spare. It has made no difference.
Ed

NMMilano · #21 (**permalink**) 11-05-2007, 06:49 AM

Well then I believe it may be a the master cylinder, I just dont believe in coincidences and the timing of the failure still bothers me. One more question, with the key on can you beeld the rears by just opening the nipple? thats how it shoud work. If you have to replace the master I would just junk the abs and go with a master out of and Gold or Silver.

AR4me · #22 (**permalink**) 11-05-2007, 07:53 AM

If the brakes feel fine when driving, except for the pump coming on at every brake application, then there must be pressure. If you have the orange "anti-lock" light come on during hard (=emergency) braking, but _NOT_ the red brake light in the ARC control panel, then I think you are facing the usual tired acc and possibly pump. If it was my car and $400 is available to service the brakes I would put on a new Buick acc and pump.
Jes

**alfaparticle** · #23 (**permalink**) 11-05-2007, 09:38 AM

Thanks for the suggestions.
I have ordered a new accumulator so I will wait to see if that solves the problem. The weather is really nice in South Carolina so I am happy to drive my Spider and park the Milano.
My ARC is useless. It is on the long list of things to do, but not near the top. Of course the red brake light comes on, but so do all the others.
Ed

**alfaparticle** · #24 (**permalink**) 11-10-2007, 06:16 AM

JoeCab got it right. I replaced the accumulator with a new one and the brakes are perfect.

Thanks for all your advice and encouragement.

Ed Prytherch

GregSef · #25 (**permalink**) 07-23-2008, 05:41 AM

Ok so I will throw in my two cents since I have long experience working with alot of older braking systems. Very often Master cylinders fail after people do any brake work which requires bleeding. In my experience this is caused by the bleeding procedure. In an old master cylinder the elastomeric cups and other seals never travel completly down the bores of the master when everything is working correcly. During the manual pedal pumping procedure these seals travel full stroke and slide past areas that have significant corrosion which scars them up pretty well in addition to stirring up alot of contaminants. The answer? pressure bleeding, vacuum bleeding, gravity bleeding for the patient (I like this method for initial bleeding)and or do not stroke the brake pedal to far down on a manual brake bleeding procedure.

Greg

keownk1 · #26 (**permalink**) 07-23-2008, 11:06 PM

Gravity bleeding seems like an attractive alternative to me. I assume you have to refill the reservoir once per cylinder and be certain to close the nipples before it empties.

The fronts must be easy since you can directly observe the brake fluid level.

Since it's difficult for oldsters like me to crawl in and out from under the car and run back and forth from the rear, I wonder if you have a guideline about how long it takes to do each side. Experience in changing the third member suggests that the brakes drain pretty fast on a non-ABS car.

Clearly on ABS cars the larger reservior takes longer to drain and maybe it's not even necessary to let it drain completely.

Thanks,
Ken

keownk1 · #27 (**permalink**) 07-23-2008, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alfaparticle

My ARC is useless. It is on the long list of things to do, but not near the top. Of course the red brake light comes on, but so do all the others.
Ed

AR4me · #28 (**permalink**) 07-24-2008, 07:36 AM

There is a thread on how to fix the ARC - a simple fix that seems to have worked for all who have tried.

Edit: Here you go REAL fix for ARC blinking lights

Jes

keownk1 · #29 (**permalink**) 07-24-2008, 10:35 AM

Thanks for this lead.

Including the two installed in my cars, I've probably got six or seven ARC units to play with. When I the more critical gremlins finally emigrate from my cars, I'll fiddle around and try to rebuild a couple.

I was not aware about an electronic control unit for the ARC. Is it located inside the unit or elsewhere in the car?

Finally, apart from the obvious difference in automatic cars, are ARC's interchangable amongst the models imported into the US? The ID tag has been removed from a couple of my spares.

Thanks,
Ken