Shankle sway bar backing plates

[Grant]

Hi,

I have a 28mm front anti-roll bar that I want to install on my Verde. I also got the Shankle plates to try to keep my mounting points from cracking. How should I go about this?

I don't know how to weld so I'll be having others do the work. The sheet metal does seem a bit thin where I would need the welding done and I'm a little concerned about the welder accidentally burning a hole down there. Also, should I have the bar installed with the paltes already held in place some how, or drive there without the bar installed? There are holes in the plates already so I suppose I could just mount them.

Also, JJ, if you're reading this, the 28mil bar came with some big (14mm or so) bolts with nyon lock nuts and some washers (definitely not having to do with the heim joints on the ends of the bar). Am I supposed to replace the existing hardware with this stuff? Do I need to hog-out the original holes abit? EDIT: I only have 2 bolts, not 4.

Any leads to someone in the bay area that knows how to do the welding for the plates? I heard of a buy in Santa Cruz named Phil I believe, but I don't know if he's still in business.

Thanks

[AR4me]

The easiest way (to ensure the holes of the reenforcement plates line up with the existing threaded holes) is to simply bolt the plates to the car, without any swaybar, and then weld away. You'll have good access.
Jes

[Grant]

Jes, were you given larger bolts too? Do you think it will still crack? I don't have the high spring rates you do, just the 27.3 T-bars.

[75evo]

I have bigger front anti-roll bars too. Just waiting to install them. I wish I could hook my welder up to a ar/co2 tank, now it's only on fluxcore.

[AR4me]

I believe I just used the stock bolts - through a bear to get on!

The swaybar is the problem regarding tearing the sheet metal - we are talking about the mounting points of the front swaybar brackets, right?

I think even the stock setup can tear the front swaybar mounting points with lots of track use. I would defnitely install reenforcement plates.

Jes

[Grant]

What made the stock bolts so hard to get on? I have taken my roll bar off before and the bolts didn't seem too hard to remove. Is it because of the larger bar?

Zamani,

What front sway bar are you using? Are you going to weld it up yourself when you fix the flux capacitor? If not, go with me when I get mine welded and have yours done too!

[AR4me]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grant What made the stock bolts so hard to get on? I have taken my roll bar off before and the bolts didn't seem too hard to remove. Is it because of the larger bar?

[Grant]

For these plates, are we supposed to tack-weld them in place or put a bead all the way around them?

[andrewg]

Find a good body shop. A body shop welder will clean and properly prep the area being welding and the area underneath the plate. If not prepped properly before and after you introduce the chance of rust later on. Body shop type welders are used to welding thin metals together. It is easy to burn through, so be careful. Also most body guys weld very cleanly because if they are messy it is more work for them to clean the welds up.

I have always had the plates welded all the way around. Make sure you seal and/or paint the plates afterwards.

[Balocco211]

The Guy in Santa Cruz is "Phil's Foreign car repair." He is factory trained at Alfa.

[Hit an Apex]

Do you HAVE to have these plates?

Do you HAVE to weld them? I.e. rivet?

[fraz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Balocco211 The Guy in Santa Cruz is "Phil's Foreign car repair." He is factory trained at Alfa.

[Grant]

Rear-end grip in the foward direction you mean? Is this on a stock Milano? I don't have traction issues in the rear so much anymoree with the LSD but maybe I'll try it in the GTV-6.

Thanks for the advice so far guys.