11-16-2006, 03:35 PM
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Low ride-height with 28mm sway bar.
I don't have any pics of just the side profile, but my verde is pretty low. I lowered it to the point where the stock 15" phone dials with 215/55/15 tires are just BARELY hidden by the faux verde fender flare. I really need to take a pic to illustrate, but I've got a question for you folks.
After lowering the Milanos/GTV6, does the sway bar bind up front with the lower control arms pointed upwards (lowering my car brought the lower control arms up significantly, which brought the sway bar mounts on the control arm up higher and inwards)? I'm worried that the combination of akwardly angled LCA's and a stiff sway bar angled upwards as they attach to the LCA will cause some binding on the sway bar end links. Any thoughts on this?
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1987 Milano Platinum - check for many new items. [B][COLOR="Red"][URL="http://alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=42980"]PARTING OUT[/URL][/COLOR][/B]
1989 Verde - Harsh shocks and SS rears, 27mm torsion bars, stainless lines, pads, 16X7.5 rims, 4.10 rebuilt platinum tranny, poly bushes, and RSR 28mm front and 25.4mm adjustable sways!
1984 GTV-6 - 80K miles
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11-20-2006, 10:41 PM
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I'll take some pictures tomorrow to help illustrate my situation then.
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1987 Milano Platinum - check for many new items. [B][COLOR="Red"][URL="http://alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=42980"]PARTING OUT[/URL][/COLOR][/B]
1989 Verde - Harsh shocks and SS rears, 27mm torsion bars, stainless lines, pads, 16X7.5 rims, 4.10 rebuilt platinum tranny, poly bushes, and RSR 28mm front and 25.4mm adjustable sways!
1984 GTV-6 - 80K miles
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11-21-2006, 05:18 PM
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If you look at the links, they can move quite a bit downward. So I would assume you would have to be at an extreme angle for them to bind.
Two solutions if you want correct or altered geometry. Buy a set of spherical drop links and shorten the length so the sway bar is straight. The other way is to get drop spindles. This will restore the geometry back to factory with the links running straight.
Seriously, I really don't think this is a problem.
__________________
Louis
1987 75 RS 24V
1987 Milano Verde ex RS Racing Special (1st RS kit in USA!!!)
2004 BMW M3
2002 Porsche Boxster
Last edited by Potenziato; 11-21-2006 at 07:31 PM.
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11-21-2006, 05:57 PM
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I didn't think about the shortened adjustable rod-ends.
I took some pictures anyways, and I have a new problem: RUBBING!!
I think I'll start a new thread for that one.
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1987 Milano Platinum - check for many new items. [B][COLOR="Red"][URL="http://alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=42980"]PARTING OUT[/URL][/COLOR][/B]
1989 Verde - Harsh shocks and SS rears, 27mm torsion bars, stainless lines, pads, 16X7.5 rims, 4.10 rebuilt platinum tranny, poly bushes, and RSR 28mm front and 25.4mm adjustable sways!
1984 GTV-6 - 80K miles
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11-21-2006, 07:37 PM
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I could write an essay on rubbing on Milano/75's. So is it the front edges of the bumper, or the rear at the liner? Grind first and think later.
This is my system of running big tires on a lowered 75. Set the caster so you barely touch the rear of the plastic liner at full lock. Than grind and/ or shim the edges of the front bumper. I have 215 40 17's with little rubbing but it's really tight. My car is lowered 2.5-3 inches down.
I've seen rub marks on the top of the liners on soft cars really lowered.
__________________
Louis
1987 75 RS 24V
1987 Milano Verde ex RS Racing Special (1st RS kit in USA!!!)
2004 BMW M3
2002 Porsche Boxster
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11-23-2006, 11:01 AM
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Louis,
Could you describe what you mean by grinding or shimming the edges of the front bumper? I want to try to solve this problem over Thanksgiving break.
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1987 Milano Platinum - check for many new items. [B][COLOR="Red"][URL="http://alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=42980"]PARTING OUT[/URL][/COLOR][/B]
1989 Verde - Harsh shocks and SS rears, 27mm torsion bars, stainless lines, pads, 16X7.5 rims, 4.10 rebuilt platinum tranny, poly bushes, and RSR 28mm front and 25.4mm adjustable sways!
1984 GTV-6 - 80K miles
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11-23-2006, 12:43 PM
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You neend to grind down the corners where the sides of the lower spoiler attach. The Verde arch extension pieces are the worst offenders. They need to be ground down abit.
The sides of the spoiler have a bolt that mounts to the side of the fender. You can add washers or spacers to increase clearance. I have added say 7mm to push it out a little
__________________
Louis
1987 75 RS 24V
1987 Milano Verde ex RS Racing Special (1st RS kit in USA!!!)
2004 BMW M3
2002 Porsche Boxster
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11-23-2006, 12:53 PM
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So, you mean grind the lower spoiler extension that points towards the inside of the wheel well (towards the engine, not the face that is towards the back of the car) right?
I'm also rubbing on the fender lip too when I hit big bumps. I'm trying to figure out a way to make the verde flares into real flares as seamlessly as possible. If anyone has done this before, please chime in.
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1987 Milano Platinum - check for many new items. [B][COLOR="Red"][URL="http://alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=42980"]PARTING OUT[/URL][/COLOR][/B]
1989 Verde - Harsh shocks and SS rears, 27mm torsion bars, stainless lines, pads, 16X7.5 rims, 4.10 rebuilt platinum tranny, poly bushes, and RSR 28mm front and 25.4mm adjustable sways!
1984 GTV-6 - 80K miles
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11-23-2006, 02:04 PM
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 Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant
So, you mean grind the lower spoiler extension that points towards the inside of the wheel well (towards the engine, not the face that is towards the back of the car) right?
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The flares are harder. Since the attachment points are at the fender, you really are limted in what to do. If you feel with your hand, you can trim off excess of the plastic to be even with the metal.
It sounds like your wheels are really a low offset. I have a set of 215 40 17's and I'm really tight with an offset of 30mm. You call your car lowered, mine is even lower!
__________________
Louis
1987 75 RS 24V
1987 Milano Verde ex RS Racing Special (1st RS kit in USA!!!)
2004 BMW M3
2002 Porsche Boxster
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11-23-2006, 03:10 PM
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Yeah, I'd like to see get that low with the relatively soft-ish 27mm torsion bars! I'm rubbing at the top of the wheel well as it is on hard bumps!
Thanks for those pics of your wheel well. Gives me a much better idea of what's gonna go down.
So on the 24V Milano, did Larry get rid of the Verde flares or did he bondo it in so you can't tell?
__________________
1987 Milano Platinum - check for many new items. [B][COLOR="Red"][URL="http://alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=42980"]PARTING OUT[/URL][/COLOR][/B]
1989 Verde - Harsh shocks and SS rears, 27mm torsion bars, stainless lines, pads, 16X7.5 rims, 4.10 rebuilt platinum tranny, poly bushes, and RSR 28mm front and 25.4mm adjustable sways!
1984 GTV-6 - 80K miles
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11-23-2006, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant
So on the 24V Milano, did Larry get rid of the Verde flares or did he bondo it in so you can't tell?
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If your are bottoming out or hitting the top of the liners, you need BUMPSTOPS. That's what they are designed to do plus they save your shock valves form slamming at the bottom.
__________________
Louis
1987 75 RS 24V
1987 Milano Verde ex RS Racing Special (1st RS kit in USA!!!)
2004 BMW M3
2002 Porsche Boxster
Last edited by Potenziato; 11-23-2006 at 08:00 PM.
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11-23-2006, 08:23 PM
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Where do I get bumpstops? I know the GTV-6 has them, but why wouldn't they have them on the Milano?
I'm pretty sure the Koni short stroke yellow shocks are OK, but if I was bottoming out on the stock shocks, I think they'd be toast.
__________________
1987 Milano Platinum - check for many new items. [B][COLOR="Red"][URL="http://alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=42980"]PARTING OUT[/URL][/COLOR][/B]
1989 Verde - Harsh shocks and SS rears, 27mm torsion bars, stainless lines, pads, 16X7.5 rims, 4.10 rebuilt platinum tranny, poly bushes, and RSR 28mm front and 25.4mm adjustable sways!
1984 GTV-6 - 80K miles
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11-23-2006, 08:31 PM
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The stock shocks on the Milano have built in bump stops. So do the RS Racing stuff. The Koni's don't have them. The old Alfetta had a bump stop external to the shocks. So this maybe why Koni doesn't have bump stops. You can get a poly cell foam bump stop from Koni like this.
This works like a spring to slowly limit travel at the end of shock compression. This will save both your oil pan and your shocks
Here is the sale pitch as quoted.
"Resilient cellular polyurethane snubbers help prevent suspension bottoming. Controlled compression smoothes out cornering and prevents ragged handling you get with hard rubber, non-progressive snubbers."
__________________
Louis
1987 75 RS 24V
1987 Milano Verde ex RS Racing Special (1st RS kit in USA!!!)
2004 BMW M3
2002 Porsche Boxster
Last edited by Potenziato; 11-23-2006 at 08:35 PM.
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11-23-2006, 08:43 PM
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You can probably use VW Jetta bumpstops. Check out autohausaz.com .
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11-23-2006, 10:30 PM
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Hey, that sounds like a pretty good solution. I have been beating down my oil sump lately.
So the snubber thing just sits on the shaft between the shock body and the wheel well? What if I have a dust boot on the shock already?
__________________
1987 Milano Platinum - check for many new items. [B][COLOR="Red"][URL="http://alfabb.com/bb/forums/showthread.php?t=42980"]PARTING OUT[/URL][/COLOR][/B]
1989 Verde - Harsh shocks and SS rears, 27mm torsion bars, stainless lines, pads, 16X7.5 rims, 4.10 rebuilt platinum tranny, poly bushes, and RSR 28mm front and 25.4mm adjustable sways!
1984 GTV-6 - 80K miles
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