RS 30mm sway bar questions.

[Grant]

After a long debate over getting a 28mm or 30mm bar, I finally received a RS 30mm bar from G2 in WA along with used Koni yellows and IAP lowering springs from JungleJustice.

The rest of my car is stock. I am ordering a 25.4 mm adjustable rear bar from Performatek to finish the package. <b>My question is this:</b> after receiving the 30mm bar, I'm really really worried I'm going to be over stressing the the sway bar mounts and possibly even the end links. This bar is MASSIVE. So, with stock torsion bars and IAP lowering springs (they feel pretty soft and no one at IAP even knows the rate!) should I be worried about driving hard with this way bar combo? I will be installing reinforcement plates of some sort but still...

Additionally, to save money I opted for Joe to NOT send me the adjustable heim/rose joints on the front sway bar. I should theoretically be able to use the OEM sway bar end links with my Verde if I buy a strong bolt and nut combo to hold the end link in place on the RS bar correct?

Finally, how might my balance be with a 30mm bar and an adjustable rear sway on a mostly stock verde?

[simp]

I also have the 30mm bar and had the same concerns. But everybody I asked said that it was absolutely no problem. The car spends 99.5% of its time on the street and not on the track, so the actuall stresses on the car are not that bad. According to my info (but that is 2nd hand) even the RsRacing 75s that run around on the ring do not have any re-inforcements for the front swaybar mounting points.

[Grant]

What other suspensino modifications are you running? Are the Ring cars equipped with stiffer springs also or strictly sway bars and shocks?

[Del]

I had aftermarket stabilizer bars installed on the MIlano, and later had to have the front mounts welded up with reinforcement plates because of cracking, this with just ordinary street driving. The structure does eventually need reinforcement. The Milano has a very thin and flexible frame and skin, push/pull in the wrong spot, and you will bend/dent/tear something.

[Potenziato]

I have the 28mm bar with the RS kit and have not had any cracking.
My 28 from RS came with bolts and washers to use with the stock drop links.The adjustable stuff is better because you can eliminate any preload on the bar.

The front bar actually only helps in keeping the inside rear wheel down.

Grant, are you going to lower the front on stock torsion bars? This is going to suck. Trust me.

[Grant]

No, remember my car already has its A arms angled upwards slightly...even though the rear is at stock ride height. I'm having bottoming issues as it is on really rough mountain roads but I'm hoping the extra compression dampening of the konis will help reduce this. <i>Hoping.</i>

"The front bar actually only helps in keeping the inside rear wheel down."

What if I have a stiffer bar in the back trying to lift it up at the same time?

Also Louis, you have stiffer "springs" front and back which I think could be helping to reduce the stress on your sway bar mounts.

I'm going to trial fit the bar tonight and see how everything feels/looks with a short drive aroudn the block. I don't have the rear bar yet but I just want to get a feel for how strong/what kind of condition my sway bar mounting points are in.

[Potenziato]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grant What if I have a stiffer bar in the back trying to lift it up at the same time? Also Louis, you have stiffer "springs" front and back which I think could be helping to reduce the stress on your sway bar mounts.

[Grant]

So I installed the Koni Yellows and IAP springs instead last night. Something is obviously wrong with IAP springs. The phone dial wheel is inside the wheel well and has 3 inches of travel at most before eithe rbottoming the coils, the shock, or against the wheel well. I"m not sure what it's doing right now.

I'll see if I can put a pic up alter.