Roxanne - budget milano/75 track car

[AR4me]

Yeah, the ground wire I twisted around the tail for the remote switch may not provide enough shielding. In that case I will run a single shielded cable for the toggle. I'm a little surprised it is that sensitive since all the remote switch does (to my understanding) is grounding the tirgger pin. Anyway, we'll see...
Jes

[AR4me]

Mats, you were right

Our next race is only 2 weeks away, and today I started up Roxanne for the first time after its winter hibernation (since the Oct race). It fired right up, and I let it warm up to check for any leaks and make sure everything is still in good working order. All looks good.

I played around with switches etc. to see if I could get the DL-1 remote start/stop switch to falsely trigger. I could It seems that switching either of the two fuel pumps on or off can occasionally trigger it. Furtunately, I mounted the unit in a location where I can still reach the button on the DL-1 itself from the driver's seat. So, I can just disconnect the yellow trigger wire at the DL-1 and then use the button on the DL-1. The on-off indicator in the remote start/stop switch will still light up to indicate status of logger. This is good since I cannot see the LEDs on the DL-1 from the driver's seat once I'm strapped in wearing the HANS device and helmet.

Zamani, don't waste your time like me. Replace the trigger wire up front with a shielded wire. I think you only need that single wire to be shielded.

Jes

[Grant]

You'd think they would have mentioned something like that in the installation manual..

[AR4me]

Yup. Though, I was warned by Mats, and the manual does talk of electrical interference as an issue, but more like a general disclaimer... However, the remote start/stop switch should come with a shielded harness. It does come with harness, but unshielded Anyway, Mats did warn me, so it is my own shoulders. But, it is no big deal to correct, really.
Jes

[75evo]

Yeah, especially for the price of the remote switch! We should email them saying the shielded wire should be included!!

Thanks for the tip.

[BigSwede]

Well, thank you for verifying it.

[AR4me]

I'm planning on putting in a fire suppression system. I want a system with electrical actuation as opposed to manual pull. I have been looking at the SPA technique, 4 liter, electrical actuation, with alu bottle and the Sparco, 4 liter, electrical actuation, also with alu bottle. The SPA may come with 6 nozzles as opposed to 4 with the Sparco, but the Sparco may have larger diameter alloy tubing (one shop claimed it would make a difference in release time). Both systems use the AFFF chemical: non-toxic, non-corrusive, bio-degradable, ... List price of the Sparco is higher, but in practice I can probably have it for same or slightly less.

Any thoughts on issues to watch out for?

I already spent the big bucks on a HANS device, and the fire suppression system is another must have safety feature for me. If in bad luck a little handheld home extinguisher is not worth much...

Jes

[AR4me]

Today I drove the car around a bit to check things one last time before next weekends event. Oddly, I could not get the DL-1 to false trigger no matter what I did. That is good news, I suppose, but isn't consistent with last time. Only difference is that last time the car was just idling on jack stands, while this time I was driving it around. One possible explanation is that when idling, turning on/off the 2nd fuel pump causes a voltage drop more significant due to low charging from the mini 35 amp alternator. Anyway, we'll see at the track.

I snapped a few pics of the car outside with the new alignment settings (=camber).

As a side note. This weekend we added camber and toe-in to Colin's Dedion. This time we did it with the Dedion out of the car since it was already out for transmission work. It is easier to do with the Dedion out of the car, but I'm not sure it takes less time overall, unless the Dedion is already out.

Jes

[Grant]

How much camber did the GTV6 get? Cambering the Dedion takes a long time, no? I'm thinking it would be really expensive to have a shop to that kind of work for me..

[AR4me]

We put -3.2 rear camber on the GTV6 (a little less than my Milano), and then 2 mm toe-in (4 mm on my Milano). I'm not sure any shop will do it for you, and if they do, they'll probably charge you a fortune (they have a steep learning curve ahead of them, at your expense).

By now we have it down, and with the Dedion out of the car it doesn't really take us that long - having the right tools is a big advantage. Of course, we also benefited from Ron explaining me in details how he does it and the pitfalls - that shortened the learning curve for us.

Jes

[75evo]

I think any shop will charge around $1K at the minimum. I wish I had a cambered and widened dedion . All I need is -2 degrees.

[Grant]

Why widened? Worried about spacers putting too much force on the hub/bearings?

Maybe we should just invest $400 on tools/alignment stuff and do it ourselves..

[nizam]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grant Worried about spacers putting too much force on the hub/bearings?

[Grant]

Epp, epp, I didn't say it. I was simply asking why Zamani doesn't want to use spacers. You drew the connection, I just asked a question

[75evo]

I didn't say that. I just said I wanted a widened dedion. Spacers to widen the dedion's track is fine too.