Roxanne - budget milano/75 track car

[AR4me]

I did not need spacers on the front since the spacing I did of the lower control arm to get my negative camber (-4 degrees) inherently spaced the front. I doubt that the rear spacers I used will work on a stock car - I think the tires would not clear the fender. Though, I don't know for sure. For the rear I bought 25 mm H&R spacers from Jason (Alfissimo International - Tel: +1 480-858-9156 /Contact@Alfissimo.com) - they are nicely made of aluminum and TUV approved - Milano/75 specific and maintain the hub-centric lip.

Note that spacers less than 25 mm typically require you to change the wheel studs!

Jes

[Grant]

Don't forget that if you hit a large bump with both wheels, your rims might rub on the fender flares. It looks from the pictures that you have plenty of clearance, but it is something to think about.

IRS has an advantage here, as more compression equals more "tucking" of the rear wheels.
On our cars, they would just go up higher, but with the same amount of track.

[Grant]

Another bummer is that Nizam (and others I'm assuming), has run into wheel bearing issues in the past while using R-comps and large diameter wheels.

Even while using high temperature wheel bearing grease, he had a high failure rate of the front and rear wheel bearings. Because of this, I've been hesitant to use spacers in the past.

I'm really hoping that Nizam's case was just atypical, but I guess you'll be the guinea pig Jes

[AR4me]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grant Don't forget that if you hit a large bump with both wheels, your rims might rub on the fender flares.

[AR4me]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grant Another bummer is that Nizam (and others I'm assuming), has run into wheel bearing issues in the past while using R-comps and large diameter wheels. Even while using high temperature wheel bearing grease, he had a high failure rate of the front and rear wheel bearings. Because of this, I've been hesitant to use spacers in the past. I'm really hoping that Nizam's case was just atypical, but I guess you'll be the guinea pig Jes

[Grant]

Sorry, I know I came off that way. I do want to say that this thread rocks and I hope you keep on writing about and taking pictures of your work!

Are you getting the 26 or 24 mm rear bar?

[AR4me]

Grant, no worries, I know. Hence, the "wink-face".

I have had the 26 mm adjustable rear swaybar from Ron sitting in the garage for a while. But, before being able to put it to work, I needed to add enough rear grib to have some spare to trade off for increase in rear swaybay. I'm very curious to see how it handles after these changes. Some adjustments of the rear sway will probably be needed. I plan on setting it slightly on the soft side to begin with, which will still be stiffer than the stock swaybar.

Jes

[ToonRboy]

Got my spacers from Charlie at SERPENT AUTOSPORT

20mm though. Nicely made - you can see they're hub-centric front and back. Though, at almost an inch thick (that you take off the studs), your lug nuts will be hanging-on by their fingernails! I use the extended lug nuts (from Serpent), which help mitigate that problem. 1/4" spacers you can just slap on and forget about it.

I still wonder what was going-on over at Alfa when they specified wheels with +40mm offsets on the GTV6, I can just imagine it: "what? no wheels for dis car? yuze da FWD one's, bada bing, bada bang!). Maybe that's why they eat through wheel bearings like they do. What I'd do for a set of those modular phone dial OZ's! -Unfortunately there's still lots of space under my rear fenders. I may have to order 50mm adapters and put these in the front...

[AR4me]

With 20 mm you need new longer studs - No? Unless the "extended" lug nuts go "into" the stud hole in the wheel I don't see how it would work. The problem is that if you need to take the hubs to the press (to get the studs out), you will need new rear wheel-bearings since they usually come apart during disassembly of the rear hub. My 25 mm H&R mounts differently, with the spacer mounted independently (from the wheel) to the hub.

Edit: looked closer at the pic, and it does look like the lug nuts extend into the wheel stud hole. Is that strong enough?

Jes

[Grant]

The good thing about the Milanos/GTV6 being happy with around 30-40mm offset is that they were able to make the suspension effectively longer and less effected by suspension movement.

The front LCA's are already pretty short, if they specified a 0-15mm offset wheel, they would just have to be that much shorter.

Jes, I found a supplier for H&R 60mm front springs if you want to screw around with your front spring rates. It costs about $70 a spring, plus shipping.

[ToonRboy]

Yes, they have to fit into the stud holes in the rims. In the pic you can see the extension. There is usually enough axial slop for that. They're supposed to be .61" dia. On my stock Campys, they only fit through 4 out of 10 bolt holes. Just had to do a little cleanup with a 1/2" drill bit and a rat-tail file. Lot's easier and less expen$ive than pulling and re-installing wheel studs. I reckon the best thing really is to get rims with the correct backspacing/offset, then we wouldn't have to worry about it. Problem is finding rims that look good and fit these dang blasted bolt pattern! These might be adaptable fo my car: eBay Motors: RSL ELITE 17" BRONZE 10H 5x100/5x114.3 WHEELS RIMS JDM (item 140205063677 end time Feb-12-08 19:28:09 PST) If these are 7"w with 40mm +offset, I would still need a 1/4" spacer! Wheel Offset Calculator

25mm (7" rim) would be about right. 'Fills the wheelwell better, and gives you a nice little bit of menacing lip on the edge. My problem here would be that these rims are 5x100.

[AR4me]

So, I think the Dedion mods are pretty much done for now - just need to clean up (=wire brush) the latest welds and paint. I fabbed the pieces and Colin stopped by to help weld it all together.

Anyone sees what's coming?

Jes

[Grant]

Rear sway bar?

[AR4me]

Yeah - the 26 mm RSR adjustable rear sway-bar. The reinforcement is probably a bit overkill, but should last... as opposed to having the Dedion attachment points torn.
Jes

[Grant]

Did you see my thread a while back about my attachment points getting torn?

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/mila...r-caution.html

I think you would have been fine since you had high spring rates in the back, I only had Shankle Springs which put a lot more stress on the bar and its mounting points.

You definitely are doing everything right the first time though!