Roxanne - budget milano/75 track car

[AR4me]

Finally a few pics from the engine compartment. I will run the wiring for the fuel pump and ground the fill plate next. With some fuel in the cell I can power up the fuel pump WITHOUT the engine running and check for fuel leaks as the fuel circulates.

After that it is on to the engine electronics (as Don suggests), mini alternator, exhaust, etc. The list is endless...
Jes

[PSk]

Fuel hose? ... what is going to support that hose as the car is bouncing around the race track. As the hose bounces it will pull on the connections/fittings, etc.

Pete

[AR4me]

Of course, clamps will be added to hold things in place - I just finished making all the hoses, connecting it, bending conduit, so a few final touches remain. Along similar lines: the aluminum straps over the cell to hold it firmly down are missing as well, so are the clamps to hold the conduit. I also plan to added a protective sleeve in select areas. As an example, in the last picture, there will be an adel clamp on the bolt on the T-belt cover - similar to the stock fuel line/hose - it was routed close to allow a clamp in that spot. There will be more along the fender. However, some slack is necessary to accommodate natural movement of the engine.

Happy now?

Jes

[junglejustice]

Hey Jes, nice work man - if all else fails you can go and wire up commercial buildings...

Hey, I know this means more work, but heck - you have come this far; why use those nice AN-pressure fittings and stainless steel braided hose all of the way from the rear to the front, only to still succumb to conventional rubber hose and clamps at the fuel rail!?

I am sure it will work; millions of cars running this way and the standard way that they do it on the Alfas, but remember the threaded nipples at the end of the fuel-rails on the 3.7 - can they source a nipple to match there right from the braided lines!?

[AR4me]

Quote:

if all else fails you can go ad wire up commercial buildings...

[tomp]

Looks like fuel lines run thru the old ECU location. Have you decided on a new one?

[AR4me]

That's the least of my worries at this point Well, it won't have the L-Jet ECU as I'm transplanting the S-engine with EVEYRYTHING. The ECU tail of the Motronic harness is too short to reach all the way down there (I think), so it probably has to be relocated anyway. Oh, and I didn't even have the L-Jet ECU there.

Tick-tock, rick-tock,... ton of things to do

Jes

[AR4me]

So, the fuel system is complete and tested A lot more work than I expected. Everything related to the fuel system is now ready to go and can checked off.

All the little remaining fuel system issues mentioned above were completed, and a battery was hooked up to run the fuel fun. It was left running for a while and careful checks for leaks were carried out. Fuel pressure comes right up and sits at 50 psi.

I manage a lot of other things over the weekend. Among them I spent a great deal of time studying wiring diagrams to figure our the cleanest and best way to wire the Motronic up in the Milano. Also, the battery box was relocated, and I plan to also relocate the kill switch to save running a ton of very heavy gauge 1 power wire.

Jes

[AR4me]

Just posted this in the 164 section to request some help on the Motronic/164 wiring from the 164 guys:

So, I'm planning the Motronic interface with the Milano and have been studying the 164 Motronic wiring diagrams. I will be using the 164 Motronic harness, naturally. Here are my observations:

This is for a 1992 164S

A.
In G154 I can:
1. Omit the grey-yellow and green-white as they are for AC (won't have that).
2. Pink-white goes to fuel pump, just like Milano.
3. The pink is relayed and fused from fuse-box (=pink and black in Milano).
4. Green-black is from ignition switch, just like Milano.
5. The brown-white is for the CEL and can be omitted (as I won't have a CEL light).
So, the only one I'm uncertain of in G154 is the yellow-green. Page 604 says it goes to N12 (or M2 - hard to read on the CD ROM) pin87 - seems like it is an output. Anyone have any info?
Edit: Ok, figured it out. It says I62, and that is for automatic transmissions (hence does not apply) and is an input.

B.
In the diagram on page 597, the HOT AT ALL TIMES corresponds to the red wire in the Milano (in the same connector as the above Milano equivalents).

C.
I can ignore the T2 connector (for blinking code), and the T1 connector remains. I'm somewhat uncertain about the S25 (Automatic/Manual Transmission) connector. The 164 manual says the manual cars have 0 volt (on pin 11 of the ECU = the green-black wire in S25), but I'm pretty sure it wasn't connected to anything when I pulled the ECU out. S25 is a 2-wire connector down by the ECU along with T1 and T2 - it has a black and a green-black wire. From the discription in the manual it seems to me both the black and the green-black wire in S25 should be grounded on a manual transmission car. Any ideas?

D.
I don't see where the alarm system provides input to Motronic (to prevent running while armed). Does it only disable the starter?
Edit: The wiring diagram for the alarm system indicates that only the starter is disabled, and hence does not apply to me since I run the Milano starter harness.

E.
Finally, the throttle body has a two-wire connector (not the TPS) that does not appear in the Motronic wiring diagram. Any ideas what this is for?
Edit: This appears to be for the electronic suspension - connector H47.

Thanks,
Jes

[junglejustice]

Good job Jes - you gonna dial-back that fuel-pressure a bit?

[AR4me]

Dial it back? There is nothing to dial back. It is stock fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator.
Jes

[junglejustice]

That's right....

[kredden]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AR4me Dial it back? There is nothing to dial back. It is stock fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator. Jes

[AR4me]

I'm no fluids expert, and I'm not sure the following simplistic view is valid, BUT, keep in mind that I'm not measuring the fuel pressure right at the rail. I'm somewhat upstream of the rail. As you get closer to the fuel pump, I suppose you may see an increase in pressure as the pump puts out considerably more than 36 psi. The fuel pressure regulator returns enough fuel to maintain 36 psi (or whatever it is set at) at the regulator/fuel rail. In ideal conditions I suppose there should be the same pressure anywhere upstream of the regulator, but in practice? Not sure... Regardless, my main motivation with the fuel pressure gauge is not so much to see the exact fuel pressure, but rather being able to monitor if there is starvation in long high G corners, etc. So, what matters is really fluctuations in fuel pressure.

Oh, and engine ran fine in the 164. We'll see and if necessary make changes...

Jes

[Craig]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AR4me 36 psi (or whatever it is set at)