#721 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2007, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slyalfa View Post
could you use a different ECU just for the coils and not get a point hit??
I believe there would be additional points for that. I suppose it would be nice to remove one more mechanical component (the distributor) in the name of reliability. Though, I really prefer to run a stock configuration this time around.
Jes
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  #722 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2007, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 75evo View Post
How will this effect the firewall stiffness? I'm assuming the firewall has to be somewhat stiff to withstand the pedal assembly pressure?
Welding on an inverse box once everything is fitted should result in pretty much the same stiffness. I think that is the best answer I have to offer. We did not do any calculations of stiffness if that is what you are looking for.
Jes
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Old 02-19-2007, 08:39 PM
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I spent a couple of hours this afternoon closing up the engine. First I put on new timing belt and tension. After that I put on the new seals for the spark plug wells. The old ones had hardened, although not leaking yet, but...

Some pics:
1. T-belt and tensioner on.
2. Final setting after the process of initial setting, turning it over, backing it off a tad to the mark, and then turning it over again.
3. New spark plug well seals on right side.
4. New spark plug well seals on left side - the new ones are much softer and rubbery as opposed to hardened.

Jes
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Old 02-19-2007, 08:41 PM
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...and then new valve cover gaskets and the covers back on (with a pic of my proud helper). In the interest of trying to get the car ready for the next track event I passed on the painting of the valve covers this time around.
Jes
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Last edited by AR4me; 02-19-2007 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 02-19-2007, 08:49 PM
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Its amazing how hardened those seals are. I just rebuilt my power steering pump and it really made sense why it was spewing liquid everywhere.
Great work jes, you're ripping along, hopefully you'll make your deadline. Id be surprised if you missed the deadline. :P
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Old 02-19-2007, 08:55 PM
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Yeah, I guess age and sitting around (drying up) really hardens the rubber. The plan is to get the engine back on the stand (after having it off when applying the high-torque to the crank-pulley, cam pulleys, etc.) and then convert the oil pan and the oil pick-up.
Jes
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Old 02-19-2007, 09:03 PM
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I also spent some time making a final decision on the fuel cell. I went with a Fuel Safe Enduro cell, 15 gallons.

I have been looking around on-line, spoken directly with Fuel Safe, and contacted a few local stores. I got by far the best regular-store pricing and super helpful service from Dave Turner at JMC Motorsports! Pricing very similar to best on-line prices. Since there are quite a few variables and options I preferred to buy the fuel cell locally.

I expect to have it within a couple of weeks.

Jes
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:28 PM
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Will you lighten the flywheel before the motor goes back in? There is a way to do it without affecting the balance and without balancing the entire bottom end.

Scott
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:42 PM
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No, stock flywheel. Unless someone buys me one of Andy's (Performatek) aluminum flywheels. Hmm, my B'day IS coming up. Oh no, that was all the gaskets, seals, cap&rotor, etc for the S-engine...
Jes
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Old 02-19-2007, 11:49 PM
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Getting a machine shop to lighten your one would be cheaper and would increase your chances of getting it as a gift

Scott
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  #731 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2007, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by AR4me View Post
Unless someone buys me one of Andy's (Performatek) aluminum flywheels
I can see it now: a big Performatek strip across the top of the windshield
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Old 02-20-2007, 08:40 AM
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Actually, I may not even have the points for a non-stock flywheel, even if I had the dough, and the luck at my B'day Max B to max C gives an allowance of 25 points. The S-engine costs 16 or 18 points. To be save lets assume 18 points. That leaves 7 points of which I will spend 5 points on headers, and then probably 2 points on modifying the exhaust of the 2.5 ahead of the rear axle. I still need to maintain the cat, which is ok as I actually hope (wishful thinking?) to keep it smogged and registered.
Jes
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Old 02-20-2007, 11:54 PM
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Hey Jes.

So, I might be wrong here but I'd guess that feeding some nice tubular headers into that little 2.5l cat would negate most of the gains the headers could give you. As long as you're getting points for modifying the front exhaust section, why don't you look into a high-flowing aftermarket cat for a corvette or mustang? Or maybe even 2 cats. (or...maybe none! )
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Old 02-21-2007, 12:35 AM
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Unhappy Houston we have a problem

So, tonight was the night of unbolting sumps, clean them up and drill out double threaded places when putting the Milano sump on the 164s block. Well, did not get nearly that far. The holes on the front of the Milano sump is nowhere near lining up with the holes on the 164s I could probably butcher some solution by drilling new/additional holes on the 164. Though, it looks like the proper solution is to take the lower front engine cover of the Milano engine and put it on the 164s engine. Unfortunately, that requires the T-belt, tensioner, front crank nut and pulley to be taken off, AGAIN Oh well, you live and you learn... Guess no one knew this little detail?

Pics:
1. 164s sump
2. Milano sump
3. 164s block
4. Milano block

BTW, yes, will probably put in a high-flow cat or two.
Jes
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Last edited by AR4me; 02-21-2007 at 12:43 AM.
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  #735 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2007, 12:45 AM
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Guess no one knew this little detail?
Ooops. I knew that. I completely forgot to mention it; I did have to use the Milano's front cover for my conversion. Sorry, Jes, my bad.
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