Roxanne - budget milano/75 track car - Page 47

junglejustice · #**691** (**permalink**) 02-15-2007, 08:03 AM

Jes, why not just modify the plenum the way that we did the 3.2, except that you add the other ports that you need to the back of it? It can be re-welded to the sides of the center-mounted t-body or anything!

Have another look at the 3.2 - there is plenty of room on the flats top the left and some to the right of the t-body ad intake hose...

Or, flip the runners around, let big Jon do the relocation of the filler-neck (or find another local aluminium welder to do it for you - can't be more than 100 bucks) and just make a bracket to hold up the plenum - mounted over the left-side! Simple.

**AR4me** · #**692** (**permalink**) 02-15-2007, 08:09 AM

Quote:

there is plenty of room on the flats top the left and some to the right of the t-body ad intake hose...

**nizam** · #**693** (**permalink**) 02-16-2007, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AR4me

Nizam, can you do me favor and measure the distance between the rear of the left head (the diamond shaped plate blocking the 164 distributor mount) and the firewall? Trying do get an idea how much I need to modify the Milano firewall to run the 164S distributor.

**nizam** · #**694** (**permalink**) 02-16-2007, 12:22 AM

Oh, one more thing, the dissy is quite big/wide (in addition to being deep), and I think you may run into the hard brake line that currently runs along the firewall to the pass. side caliper. Something to think about.

You could re-route the hard line lower in the engine bay, just above the bell housing. That should work.

**AR4me** · #**695** (**permalink**) 02-16-2007, 12:23 AM

Thanks for the measurements Nizam. Here are a couple of pics of where I intend to cut. I basically plan to cut out the entire squarish intrusion "into" the engine bay from the firewall. I think that is where the cabin air intake and ventilation unit used to reside. It would be a 10 inch wide by 4 inch deep cut-out, of sufficient height for the alternator to fit.

Fly or no fly???

Jes

**nizam** · #**696** (**permalink**) 02-16-2007, 12:30 AM

It should fit, and I suppose you could replace the cap & dissy from under the dashboard. My only worry then would be ... would you re-weld another piece in since you now have a firewall breach?

**AR4me** · #**697** (**permalink**) 02-16-2007, 12:30 AM

Regarding the U-bend for the plenum. I spoke with Larry about the solution he has been using. It ends up somewhat costly due to the aluminum piping, and obviously the work involved. There is no mark-up, the material is what it is. Colin suggested to use a silicone U-bend instead. Hmm, not a bad idea. I measured the plenum just beyond the throttle body mount. If we cut it there we would have 1/2 inch to fit a 3 1/4 inch silicone U-bend onto the plenum with a hose clamp

A solution similar to the one shown in Nizam's car, except the U-bend will be silicone instead of aluminum.

Next topic. Before the engine goes in we plan to seam weld the engine bay. I did some mark-ups on the passenger side, see pics, driver side will be symmetric. Blue circles indicate segments to weld.

Jes

**AR4me** · #**698** (**permalink**) 02-16-2007, 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nizam

My only worry then would be ... would you re-weld another piece in since you now have a firewall breach?

junglejustice · #**699** (**permalink**) 02-16-2007, 12:54 AM

Jes, wire-wheel the areas to be welded real good first, (but I guess that you two pros don't need no Monday-morning Quarter-Back bench-racer telling you what to do...)

**AR4me** · #**700** (**permalink**) 02-16-2007, 01:12 AM

Yup, got to sand/grind down the pain first. BTW, tried calling you earlier with an update.
Jes

**AR4me** · #**701** (**permalink**) 02-17-2007, 07:47 PM

So, finished the oil seals and O-rings. Tapped in the oil seal for the oil pump pulley and took the distributor out and apart to do the oil seal and O-ring. Thanks to Steve (AlfistoSteve) for pointing out and confirming the O-ring location.

Some pics:
1. The oil seal on the oil pump pulley
2. The distributor is off.
3. The pin is tapped out to realease the ring and allow the shaft to be pulled out. With the shaft out, the oil seal can be replaced.
4. The new O-ring is on - had to clean out goo from the seat as previously someone had use silicone instead of proper O-ring.
5. The distributor is back on the left head. I got new cap and rotor to go on.

So, only got the pipe/cig seal left to do. I will do those when I have the oil sump off to convert to the Milano sump.

Jes

**AR4me** · #**702** (**permalink**) 02-17-2007, 07:56 PM

I then went on to clean off the paint in preparation for the seam welding. The angle grinder with a sander as well as the dremel (for tight spaces) made quick progress.
Jes

scott.venables · #**703** (**permalink**) 02-17-2007, 10:34 PM

Jes, What welder will you use to stitch it up? TIG seems most obvious because or the neat finish but MIG or oxy would make sense too.

Do you think this method will make a noticeable difference or is it a "may as well" since the motor and loom is out?

Scott

**75evo** · #**704** (**permalink**) 02-17-2007, 11:02 PM

Jes,

If there is an engine fire, the lack of a good firewall will not work in your favor. Just something to think about. Unless of course you intend to reshape the firewall to accommodate the dissy which means you will still have a firewall just that it is shaped differently.

DaveH · #**705** (**permalink**) 02-18-2007, 06:18 AM

Jes,

What other options do you have re the dizzy/firewall?

I am really surprised you want to go that route....but then again, I am only learning from what you are doing

Dave