Roxanne - budget milano/75 track car - Page 45

**AR4me** · #**661** (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 01:34 AM

Some further disassembly... Should I get the intake plenum and valve covers coated while off? Tempting

Though, perhaps too costly - will check.
Jes

**kredden** · #**662** (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 05:49 AM

Just use some VHT wrinkle paint, looks good and is cheap!

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/show...&highlight=VHT

Kevin

**AR4me** · #**663** (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 09:06 AM

Thanks for the pointer Kevin. Now, red or black, or maybe dark grey?
Jes

alfettish · #**664** (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 09:07 AM

red & black

**AR4me** · #**665** (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 09:33 AM

In what combination?
Jes

**AR4me** · #**666** (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 09:50 AM

Kevin,
Where did you get the VHT wrinkle paint? Any retail stores carry it?
Jes

**kredden** · #**667** (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 02:29 PM

I wasn't able to find it in an local stores unfortunately, the info on where I ordered it from is in this thread:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/show...49&postcount=7

On another topic...I've just come in to a 35K Verde engine that I pulled from a really rusty Verde (was sitting for a LONG time in somebody's back yard :-( ) and I want to get it on my HF engine stand (gave the other back that I was borrowing), do you have it mounted to the crank in your pics? Is that safe? I was just going to mount it to the bellhousing holes but don't have long enough bolts as the bell housing ones are too short.

Kevin

**AR4me** · #**668** (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 05:11 PM

Thanks for the link. I have the flywheel off and mounted the stand to the bell housing attachment points (the ones with longest thread). I bought some longer bolts to compensate for the longer "studs" on the engine stand compared to the thickness of the bell housing. Safe? Well, it is still on there.

BTW, just posted in the 164 section regarding odd findings regarding the 164S cam timing:
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/37068-look-12v-cam-timing.html
Any thoughts on that one?

Jes

**kredden** · #**669** (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 05:52 PM

Weird, from the pics it looks like you have it connected to the crank, ah well, off to ACE tomorrow to see if I can get lucky and find some longer bolts.

As for your timing, don't know on that one. On my 164 engine (the one in the car now) I can't get everything to line up perfectly. When at TDC and the distributor pointing at #1 both of my cams are off by about the width of the mark or a little more.

Kevin

**AR4me** · #**670** (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 06:00 PM

Quote:

ah well, off to ACE tomorrow to see if I can get lucky and find some longer bolts.

**AR4me** · #**671** (**permalink**) 02-10-2007, 11:59 PM

So, now the engine should be timed correctly - cam-wise, confirmed by the 164 guys. See pics:
1. right cam
2. left cam.
3. distributor.
4. crank pulley.
5. my simple TDC gauge (very useful).

Note that the cam pulleys have external markings for timing, but since I'm doing the valve cover gaskets anyway and the cam timing was off, I decided not to take any risk, and instead verify with internal cam marks as wells as confirm TDC with the simple gauge (besides external crank TDC mark).

Jes

**AR4me** · #**672** (**permalink**) 02-11-2007, 12:03 AM

I went on to remove the thermostat stack, which will be replaced with a Milano thermostat stack. Also, I took off the water pump and cleaned off the old gasket in preparation for putting the new waterpump on.
Jes

**AR4me** · #**673** (**permalink**) 02-11-2007, 12:13 AM

Before putting on the new waterpump and the Milano thermostat stack I wanted to remove the bracket for the 164 dog-bone engine mount. This requires the right cam pulley to be removed. Since the pulley had to be removed and since there was some sign of small oil leak I decided to do the cam pulley oil seals. In order to get the 22 mm crank pulley off you need counter leverage on the cam pulley. Colin stopped by and we fab'ed a tool providing plenty off leverage. Pics:
1. Colin welding up the tool, in his Ralph Lauren shirt, again

2. Test fit - perfect.
3. The new oil seal, and an O-ring. Where does the O-ring go?
4. The right cam pulley cam right off with a small 3-legged pulller. The left cam pulley, NOT so.
5. A close-up of the puller on the left cam pulley. First one leg broke on the small puller, then another, lending it useless. We put on a bigger puller: Another leg broke

Hmm... Soaked in penetrating oil, tapping with hammer, still nothing. I'm letting it sit overnight with tension, soaked in penetrating oil. Any ideas? I could heat it, but I rather not.

Jes

DonBeeson · #**674** (**permalink**) 02-11-2007, 12:56 AM

Jes,
Here is the tool that I used.

I spent so long looking for bolts that would bolt to the pulley and then it would be really easy...but i guess its near impossible to find them (same thread/size as your cam cover bolts..but you need ones twice as long)

So i bought some metal brackets, just thicker metal with two holes in them, bent them so you can bolt one to the puller and one to the cam pulley, you can bolt it using old cam cover bolts to the cam pulley, then get three of these going and you should be able to pull.

I did one with flimsier metal that i doubled up and it broke on the second so i resorted to thicker metal. Dont expect to be using those old cam cover bolts ever again either!

The tool shown cost me $20 at the local hardware store

And before anyone flames me for doing what i did..i was in a very remote area and pretty much the only alfa guy, i improvised and it worked

guran · #**675** (**permalink**) 02-11-2007, 03:42 AM

Jes! For the o-ring swap, check out http://www.alfapro.com/html/cam_o-rings.html

3. The o-ring goes between the "pulley-hub-halves".

5. I did this last year on my gtv6 and had som problems getting the pulley off. I think you need a more robust puller combined with heat.

Good Luck!
/Gustav