Roxanne - budget milano/75 track car - Page 17

Fortis 621 · #**241** (**permalink**) 09-25-2006, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75evo

Does it rattle while driving?

The Verde ones are crap. They vibrate and to stop the vibration of the mirrors, you have to put strip of sponges in the gap between the housing and the mirrors. The platinum ones are 100 times better but they don't look as cool.

**AR4me** · #**242** (**permalink**) 09-25-2006, 11:40 PM

Here are some close-ups of the left side side mirror. The problem I had with the platinum mirror (besides being heavy) was that I could not adjust them out far enough for optimal field of vision for wheel-2-wheel racing. These CF mirrors are adjustable in any direction and degree and feature convex glass as pointed out by Colin.

Jes

Grant · #**243** (**permalink**) 09-26-2006, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75evo

Does it rattle while driving?

The Verde ones are crap. They vibrate and to stop the vibration of the mirrors, you have to put strip of sponges in the gap between the housing and the mirrors. The platinum ones are 100 times better but they don't look as cool.

**AR4me** · #**244** (**permalink**) 09-26-2006, 05:10 PM

Of course, everything is relative, but IMO $4k (or thereabout - not counting my time) is still very inexpensive for a sorted race car you don't need to spend 1/2 your track time under during the events. I prefer to come prepared and be able to focus on the driving - that comes with a price! So, budget is within those terms.
Jes

**nizam** · #**245** (**permalink**) 09-26-2006, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AR4me

Of course, everything is relative, but IMO $4k (or thereabout - not counting my time) is still very inexpensive for a sorted race car you don't need to spend 1/2 your track time under during the events. I prefer to come prepared and be able to focus on the driving - that comes with a price! So, budget is within those terms.
Jes

**sidewaysalfa** · #**246** (**permalink**) 09-26-2006, 07:32 PM

Damn,
My '77 Alfetta ending costing me about $5 - 6K after 2 years or sorting and improving between Time Trials.
That brought it up to a $500 value.

**gday** · #**247** (**permalink**) 09-26-2006, 07:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AR4me

very inexpensive for a sorted race car you don't need to spend 1/2 your track time under during the events

**nizam** · #**248** (**permalink**) 09-26-2006, 09:23 PM

No, I think he was looking at me ... or maybe Will

**AR4me** · #**249** (**permalink**) 09-26-2006, 10:35 PM

Nah, myself. Been there, trying to make a defect coolant system last through a weekend - was not much fun missing half the track time.

Graham, you take the price for persistence at WSR this spring! I was very impressed and happy your efforts paid off.

Quote:

That brought it up to a $500 value.

**AR4me** · #**250** (**permalink**) 09-27-2006, 12:40 AM

Since my 4 year old wanted to go play with the neighbor's daughter I figured I go play by myself in the garage. So, I took a look at a dent in the front left fender and went to work with body filler and sanding, filler and sanding, filler and sanding, filler and sanding, ...

Kind of fun, but man, that stuff got to be bad for your health

Jes

**AR4me** · #**251** (**permalink**) 09-27-2006, 12:41 AM

and primer ...

Jes

Philip Hehir · #**252** (**permalink**) 09-27-2006, 01:50 AM

Jes!!! What were you thinking...... You do realise you have just added another 20 grams back onto your car! ;-)

**AR4me** · #**253** (**permalink**) 09-27-2006, 07:59 AM

I did get the super light-weight body filler

And, I made sure to thin out the metal first

Jes

**AR4me** · #**254** (**permalink**) 09-30-2006, 12:08 AM

Ok, started a major job that should result in:
1. Castor rod ball joint conversion (instead of the poly bushing)
2. Replacement of all bushings on lower A-arm - only remaining bushings that aren't new on Roxanne

3. Shimming of the poly bushing on the upper control arm - the new poly worked their way back out

4. New front wheel bearings.
5. Removal of dust shields.
6. Installation of turned old rotors I have laying around.
7. Change of height.
8. Different front suspension.
As I don't yet have all parts, and the work itself takes time, it will run over 1-2 weeks.

So, first step is to basically take everything apart up front - I started this evening. Took of sway bar and took apart most of the left front. Some pics below.

1. starting point
2. sway bar out - all new poly mount and end-link bushings, 24 mm (verde). Anyone interested? FOR SALE
3. A-arm ball joint undone, outer tie rod joint released from steering knuckle, brake caliper off, rotor+hub off.
4. Shock and upright removed.

Jes

**AR4me** · #**255** (**permalink**) 09-30-2006, 12:35 AM

and a few more.

1. The upright, hub, and rotor apart and out.
2. Removing the seal at the inner wheel bearing.
3. The backed out poly bushing that needs to be shimmed.

Next I will be taking out the inner and outer wheel bearing cups and install new ones. I need to order new (inner) seals - thought I had them, ...

Jes