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Old 10-24-2003, 06:28 PM
sporter sporter is offline
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1988 Milano

This is my first post in this forum and on this board.

I have an opportunity the acquire a 1988 Milano 2.5 for free. A co-worker will give me this car if I want. He said that radiator fluid is coming through the vents (heater core?)

He said the car needs brakes (pads and rotors?)

Also, it needs to be smogged and a valve adjustment? These are the things the owner said the car needed. Does this engine have mechanical lifters or hydraulic lifters. In other words, is a valve adjustment needed? Or does it need lifters?

What other things on the car should I pay special attention to? I figure, a couple of hundred $$$ and maybe I can have a decent car to kick around in.

I currently own watercooled VW's and do ALL the mechanical work on these cars. I am not afraid of spending time under the hood or under the car.

Thanks for help.
Sean
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Old 10-24-2003, 06:31 PM
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geh458 geh458 is offline
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Welcome Sean, and remember, "FREE" is good, even if you have to spend a few dollars to make it road worthy
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Old 10-24-2003, 06:50 PM
sporter sporter is offline
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I will look at this car, try to crank it-up, and get a feel for the auto- tranny on Monday.

The owner also said something about head gaskets. I can change these, but should a valve job be done while the heads are off? The Odo reads 159K.

Sean
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Old 10-25-2003, 11:03 AM
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AlfaRacer75 AlfaRacer75 is offline
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Welcome to the BB, and congrats on the free Milano These are fun cars and I think you'll enjoy it once you get it moving again.

Here are some answers to your questions:

Exhaust valve adjustment is done just by loosening a set nut and turning the adjuster until you get the correct clearence. Intake valve adjustment is done with shims and requires the removal of the camshafts. Luckily it is usually just the exhaust valves that need adjusting.

Changing the heater core isn't fun, since you need to remove the dashboard (or at least part of it), but it can be bypassed if you don't mind not having heat

The headgaskets will need to be replaced if there is oil in the coolant or vise-vera. It's not too hard of a job, but the drivers side head won't come off without removing the brake booster.

Front brakes are easy, pretty much like any other car, rear brakes are inboard and a bit of a pain. Let me know if you have to mess with the rear brakes and I can help you out.

Changing the timing belt when needed is VERY IMPORTANT. If it hasn't been changed within the last 30k miles than you should really change it. If the timing belt breaks or slips more than a couple teeth the pistons will hit valves and you'll end up with expensive engine damage. Doing the belt isn't too hard, expect 3-4 hours. While you're down there you should check the water pump, grab the nose of the pulley and see if there's any play. If there is then you should replace it while you have everything apart down there.


Where in San Diego are you?
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Old 10-30-2003, 12:27 PM
sporter sporter is offline
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alfaracer75,

I am in Point Loma.

Do you have the proceedure for changing the timing belt and for adjusting the exhaust valve lash?

The car does not have debris in the coolant and there is little or no miss in the engine. I will do a compression test on each cylinder to determine if a head gasket is needed.

I would like to contact you since you are in San Deigo as well.

619-851-7326
wk. 858-278-3600 ex. 344
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Old 10-30-2003, 11:39 PM
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AlfaRacer75 AlfaRacer75 is offline
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The procedure for changing the timing belt and water pump can be found here: http://denovich.org/alfa/sikand_mti/clone/mwaterp.htm

If there's no crossover between oil & coolant then the headgaskets should be fine. Compression test will reveal any problems though...
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Old 11-01-2003, 05:39 PM
sporter sporter is offline
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thanks
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