Brad's Custom Body Kit (A Buddy In Seattle);

[junglejustice]

Yeah, I like it! It's a combination of rolling the fenders as much as possible, the spacers, the wheel off-set, the brake-hubs (acting as additional spacers with the outboard conversion) and the added negative camber (DeDion cut-and-weld!)

The car looks very different now in person - no longer the weird 50s tucked-in wheel look...

[junglejustice]

So, with massive brakes, the full-house RSR setup, negative camber DeDion, interior touch-ups, custom paint and body-work, the gearbox rebuilt and a host of other go-fast goodies done, it was time to address power.

Ol' Brad did a nice job on that 2.5 rebuild a few years back and the thing sounds awesome, but he desperately needed some more ponies under the hood!

[junglejustice]

So, this is now a 3.0 litre with the compression bumped to about 10.5 to 10.7:1 (the stock rods and pistons treated accordingly...!)

Brad wanted to be "individual" as usual and decided to give the sophisticated, high-dollar Motec a go as the chosen engine management system! He will be running a 60 minus 2 crank-trigger-wheel with a magnetic pic-up and then a customized distributor-based secondary hall-effect trigger which (in theory) would enable full-sequential on this little 12 valve.

He chose to run 3 x 2 double coils though, so the timing will be semi-sequential (with 3 firing phases), much like we do when utilizing the 3 x 2 VW VR6 coil-brick or the Alfa 155 3 x 2 coil-brick with the GoTech Pro setup...

Customized fuel-supply, AN-fittings, stainless-steel braided lines, billet FPR and gauge (with the OEM AFR removed and the fuel-rails bridged there in-place), kill-switch, enough relays to go to war with - on and on!

[junglejustice]

Where the GoTech comes with a plug-and-play custom harness, the Motec comes with a roll of wires and baggies of connectors! (Brad likes that because he is into the customizing of it and doesn't mind the wiring aspect.)

The Motec's wide range of features cannot be denied, but the price is way out of range for most of us! I don't like the a la cart pricing-methodology either. The air-temp sensor is extra, the MAP sensor is extra, the ignition-module is extra (hence the Haltec part...) The ignition-expander/channel-splitter is extra (the Motec only comes with 2 and you need 3 to run the 3 phases, 4 to run a 4-phase V8 and 8 to run a V8 in full-sequential...)

It gets to be spendy, but it is the best of the best I'm sure!

Still, the whole setup looks fantastic and the work is top-notch. I like the Roush 75mm t-body with custom potentiometer-type TPS, the custom plug-wires and brackets and all of the other little touches!

Inside the heads have a full Steve Hannoford/Progressive Automotive port and polish-job and it just seems like Brad won't leave a single piece of hardware stock... Custom cams and valve angles - the works. (They chose to use standard, but ported intake runners.)

Custom headers (IAP if I recall) and a custom exhaust all of the way back!

[Mezevenf]

Wow! That is impressive! I want my engine bay looking that delicious!

Got to admire the amount of hours that must have taken. What kind of power is that engine making?

[jazig.k]

awsome.... filled them gaurds perfectly!
and i love gaurds... no flairs and pulled the perfect look!

[max_75]

which model of wilwood twin pump is this? where can get it? I wondering is it direct bolt on to 75 brake booster?

thanks.

[junglejustice]

Yeah, ol' Brad likes detail and he likes individualism...

Not sure about the power yet - they are only firing it up on Tuesday/Wednesday and headed over to the dyno towards weeks-end! Maybe Brad will come back and post here to share the numbers with us - once he has them (I'm "retired" remember...?)

Brad, when you read this, maybe also let Max 75 know the model of master you used...

[AlfaNewB]

is that ignition system aftermarket or from another make & model? how easy was it to install?

[Mezevenf]

It's a MoTeC system, made in Australia.

MoTeC Advanced Engine Management & Data Acquisition Systems

Very expensive

[AlfaNewB]

how much dose it cost an aproximate amount?

[Rookie ROX]

Depends on the specific model, but you're usually going to START at $2000AUD (which is about USD now, ~$0.96AUD to $1USD) just for the ECU itself and then move up from there. Then you've got all the extra bits and pieces you've got to get, and the cost of installation. Very, very pricey, but also very, very good. The question is how much money do you have to spare, and is it worth getting an ECU that's chock full of features you'd likely never use.

This should give you a general idea - MoTeC Dealer Pricelist - City Performance Centre

OT: It looks great! I like the kill switch mount, I never thought of doing it that way. I may change mine to something similar. Easy access, but not overly intrusive like the current setup. He needs to do something to the rocker covers though - they look a little bare.

ROCK ON
R~R

[AlfaNewB]

what other companies provide a similar setup as the one on the 75?

[Rookie ROX]

ECU wise?

Megasquirt, Gotech, SDS, Autronic, Motec..

There's lots.

ROCK ON
R~R

[junglejustice]

So, since this thread was originally about Brad's amazing custom body-kit endeavors, I figured that it was HIGH time for an update on that front!

- We spent some time over at his place yesterday and while the Peanut practiced donuts out on the cul-de-sac in the neighbor-boy's electric "green" machine, I snapped some shots of the progress on his car! I am happy to report that all the materials to go down the same path for the custom rear quarters on the 3.7, have landed at my house - less than 100 bucks! (Fiberglass, glass resin/gel, foam-core, spray-foam, 40 grid, Japanese Saw, blue tape etc).

So, in order of priority here - before any real body-kit stuff can happen;

1) You have to get the car up on jack-stands, blow the wheels off, get the plastic Alfa fender-arches off (if it is a Verde for example), get the front fender-liners out, throw a few Hail Mary passes and cut the steel fender arches out! Point of no return here...

This will leave a detached inner-fender section and outer skin that will have to be BFH'ed closer back into place and then re-welded back together again later as well. This will effectively increase the wheel-arch and maximize suspension-travel for an 8" or 9" wheel!

2) Next you have to mount the side-skirts / runners since you're pretty much going to form the lower sections of your fenders off of those lines (dito for the front and rear bumpers - you need to KNOW what bumpers you are going to use)! Brad made his own sides and they are pretty bloody nice - very close to the real thing! (I have the Evo parts that are the same as the IMSA / DTM parts, but even those need some cutting and modifying to make them look good and fit right)!

Like a buddy of mine once said: "...body-kits, CF hoods and fiberglass flares are just somebody else's unfinished projects..." I think that he was right (and therefore commend Brad's custom, Hans Solo efforts here)!