#16 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2006, 05:54 PM
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JoeCab JoeCab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fraz
We have had this discussion before and it is just not true. The small cast lip on that hub is not holding the wheel in place more than the pressure of the 5 lugs torquing against the flat steel backing plate. The hub is not even round. It is cast and therefore by nature imperfect. I milled the ID of my wheels and took all the measurements and inspected this whole bit very well and I would completely trust a wheel that even has a 1mm gap. What is actually holding the wheel in place is the stretch of the studs holding the wheel against the flat part of the spindle, not the <1mm cast lip. Not starting a flame, just passing on my experience.
My experience is just the opposite, I've found it very important to have hubcentric wheels on these cars.

I've never been able to get non-hubcentric wheels to be completely smooth, even when perfectly balanced.

Regardless of the balance issues, I would probably consider wheels with the correct bolt pattern OR the correct center bore to be safe, but wheels with *neither* seems like a stretch.

Joe
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-05-2006, 04:10 PM
75evo 75evo is offline
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I think non-hub centric wheel fitment is like rolling a dice. If you are lucky, you get no vibration, if not, you will get some vibration. My 164S has 16" TSW EVOs and with spacers very little of the hub was exposed to the wheel. It vibrated quite a but. Without the spacer, more ot the hub goes into the wheel center bore. The vibration was mostly solved, well around 90% of it.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 03-08-2006, 07:21 AM
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nikosd nikosd is offline
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Wink

The hub is just used to center the wheel. The wheel is then held in place by the lugs. You have to find a way to center any aftermarket wheel with bigger hub hole (just some kind of cheap plastic ring would be enough). Quality spacers have a hub on their external surface to "replace" the one covered.

Nick
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