just bought my 1st alfa 88 verde red - Page 3

**La Voce** · #31 (**permalink**) 08-05-2009, 04:04 AM

Gilles I have not torn down a six cylinder yet, but on the four cylinder Nord you must be careful regarding the orientation of the rod bearings and end caps, as they have oil passage grooves cut into them and it's possible to install them incorrectly. This would definitely affect the life of your rod bearings, however, I can't say if this would cause a low oil pressure reading. Need someone with more wisdom than I can muster to weigh in here.

spiderrey · #32 (**permalink**) 09-22-2009, 06:10 PM

well, its been 2 months since i bought the car and it just sits in the driveway. bummer. works been slow and i have to get this honda together so i can sell it and have more room around here. the money wouldnt hurt either. i think this will be the 1st year i dont make it to bfi with my spider, bummer again. hopefully i can get to the verde in a couple months.

spiderrey · #33 (**permalink**) 10-02-2009, 06:37 PM

o k. i got the honda together and out of the way. now im starting to lower the front of my milano. the p o raised it because his mechanic put tires on that were to big. ive got the sway bar and the shock disconnected on the passenger side. but not sure what to do next. im sure where good jacking points are on this car. i think i need to lift the front as high as possible and set it on jack stands. i dont think the torsion bars will be to difficult to remove, the car was raised a week before i bought it. any advice is truely appreciated. im running blind here. been a fiat guy since 78'.

slyalfa · #34 (**permalink**) 10-02-2009, 06:50 PM

look here Craig's Place, Alfa 75 Manuals and Information

spiderrey · #35 (**permalink**) 10-02-2009, 07:07 PM

thank you. i printed out 2 pages of instructions on removing the torsion bars. still trying to figure good jacking and jack stand points. removed the sump guard, it was held on at the rear with zip ties.

**La Voce** · #36 (**permalink**) 10-02-2009, 07:14 PM

Yes, raise the car and place on secure jackstands. Jack points are a few inches behind the front wheels on the outside of the frame. No need to touch the sway bar at all. Unbolt the caliper (two bolts I think) and get it up and out of the way, use safety wire to secure it. Disconnect the shock from the A-Arm and separate the ball joint (there's a special tool that makes life easy, IAP sells it), then remove the two lower A-Arm retaining bolts that pass through the frame. Note: these may have alignment shims on the inside of the frame under the nuts, make sure you note their location for reinstallation. Get the A-Arm completely free from the chassis, it will be attached to the torsion bar. Clean and mark the torsion bar and A-Arm spline alignment with paint, then separate them. As I recall, you were WAY high. Rotate the the A-Arm up one spline on the torsion bar, and put it back together using copper anti-seize compound, this will lower the front significantly, and you should be back to stock height. If you want to lower it further, you'll have to remove the torsion bar from the aft chassis attachment point, and that's another story.

spiderrey · #37 (**permalink**) 10-03-2009, 02:53 PM

la voce, thanx for the reply. that was very helpful. now im wondering if i should try this without the toolm or wait and buy the tool?

spiderrey · #38 (**permalink**) 10-05-2009, 04:54 PM

one side down one to go. it wasnt to bad. i have air tools and large floor jacks, that really helps.

spiderrey · #39 (**permalink**) 10-05-2009, 06:27 PM

this is what i found on the drivers side. the second side to be worked on. this cant be right.

this side is completely apart now. this wheel had a lock. i had no key so i busted the lock off, i need to bust two more wheel locks off then i need to find 3 more wheel nuts. the info i got from la voce made this real simple. i had been dreading this jod for quite a few weeks now.

**AlfaVeloce** · #40 (**permalink**) 10-05-2009, 08:40 PM

I think you are looking at the brake wear sensor wires. Not properly laced.

spiderrey · #41 (**permalink**) 10-05-2009, 08:45 PM

how are they supposed to be laced?

spiderrey · #42 (**permalink**) 10-09-2009, 05:54 PM

well, i just finished lowering the front of my verde. it was raised, so i took it down 2 notches. one notch would have been stock height. it looks a little low, but i think its only because the tires are still the wrong size. im gonna look and see what i can do to bring the back down about an inch and install a single ansa exhaust tip on the car

spiderrey · #43 (**permalink**) 10-09-2009, 07:45 PM

heres a pic of the car lowered.

**La Voce** · #44 (**permalink**) 10-10-2009, 05:54 AM

Congratulations, you got it done, but your instincts are correct, it's too low. There is nothing sexier than a lowered Milano at this ride height, but also nothing more impractical for the road, at least with your stock suspension. Be careful or you will damage exhaust components and your front inner fender plastic liners. The good news is now you know how to go back and fix it!

spiderrey · #45 (**permalink**) 10-12-2009, 10:09 AM

The car was raised by the p o. I wanted it lower then stock so i dropped it 2 notches on each side, one notch lower then stock. The driver side actully came down alot lower then the pass side. The pass side looks liveable. So I would have to assume when it was raised, it wasnt raised evenly. Im gonna take the drivers side back up a notch. Hopefully that levels the front side to side. I went to move it this mornin and it was dead. I could hear the fuel pump kick in but it wouldnt crank. Thats odd because it has sat for weeks at a time recently and cranked right over. Im gonna check the battery for a bad cell, but Im wondering if there is something on the car that goes bad and sucks the battery down.