REAL fix for ARC blinking lights - Page 4 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #46 of 156 (permalink) Old 06-19-2008, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
But Mad North-Northwest
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Happy to help.

Sure sounds like some sort of a grounding problem. My guess would be the rear taillight grounds, as those are a common problem point. If you have the headlights on and hit the brakes or shift into reverse, do you ever get a slight glow at the indicator for the rear fog lights? That's a sure sign of a bad ground at the rear.

I would start by pulling the connectors at the tail light boards in the trunk. Inspect them for melting/browning and clean them well and it might temporarily fix the problem. If that solves the problem you can do what I did: I permanently fixed my tail light grounding problems by replacing the ground wires, which I documented in the thread below.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/mila...rd-batman.html

Tom

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post #47 of 156 (permalink) Old 06-21-2008, 08:32 PM
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Thanks Gubi, that's a good start! Now I realize that when I push the brakes it turns on the other two "tail lights" warnings (9 and 7th ARC lights acording to the owners manual) so your theory sounds correct... Will post news...
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post #48 of 156 (permalink) Old 11-02-2008, 01:39 PM
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I fixed mine today. Thanks for the great advice. I used an M3 cap screw to attach the regulator to the heatsink and to the pCB. I had to open up the hole in the PCB.

Ed Prytherch
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post #49 of 156 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 08:28 PM
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Hi Alfabb members.

Thanks for your work in finding the solution to this problem. Obviously Alfa needs to hire a few board members as problem solvers/engineers.

I drive an 87 Milano that I bought here in town. I was never too electronically inclined but would like to become so. I have a co-worker who is going to work with me to fix this.

My question is a simple one. I have never encountered a molex connector that looks like this. I know it probably makes me seem pretty thick not to be able to figure it out, but how do I take it off? I can't figure it out for the life of me. I'm nervous about just pulling on it real hard since it seems that I can't just pull it off like the others. I tried slipping a small flat head in there but it just seemed like it would require three hands.

Regardless, first time poster, long time reader...thanks for everything!

Anders V
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post #50 of 156 (permalink) Old 11-30-2008, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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You see the notch in the center of the white piece sticking out to the left? There should be a tab on the connector visible through that notch. Push down on the tab with a small screwdriver or something and the connector should slide right out.

Tom

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post #51 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-01-2008, 07:39 AM
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You see the notch in the center of the white piece sticking out to the left? There should be a tab on the connector visible through that notch. Push down on the tab with a small screwdriver or something and the connector should slide right out.
I knew it was something easy like that! Thanks a million!
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post #52 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 01:48 PM
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I just did it, and it fixed an old problem (when I turned on the headlights, the "rear fog lights and parking lights inefficiency" lamp would intermittently illuminate). That's good news. However, it did nothing to correct a new problem that recently surfaced. I have three in a row continuously blinking after the self test cycle is complete: Low engine oil, low washer fluid, and low coolant.

Jim
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post #53 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by La Voce View Post
I just did it, and it fixed an old problem (when I turned on the headlights, the "rear fog lights and parking lights inefficiency" lamp would intermittently illuminate). That's good news. However, it did nothing to correct a new problem that recently surfaced. I have three in a row continuously blinking after the self test cycle is complete: Low engine oil, low washer fluid, and low coolant.
Check fluid levels!



You could check resistances of the sensors, it's somewhat possible that since your ARC was messed up before, it didn't sense that anything was wrong, or show it. So the sensor was never fixed?

'88 Alfa Romeo Milano Verde - 24V, '87 Platinum 3.0 (for sale), 94 LS parting out
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post #54 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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I just did it, and it fixed an old problem (when I turned on the headlights, the "rear fog lights and parking lights inefficiency" lamp would intermittently illuminate).
Heh, it *shouldn't* have fixed that. That's usually a grounding issue at the rear taillight boards. Check the link in post #46 at the top of the page. Theoretically it's possible that this is also fubaring the ARC somehow, so it's worth checking.

If not, for the coolant and washer sensors you can just pull the plug and jumper it at the sensor, I would think. That should tell you if it's the sensor itself or something different.

Tom

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post #55 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 06:04 PM
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DANG DON! Whooda thunkit? I just went out and checked the fluid levels- all three problems solved!
Actually I was wondering if there is a connector or other possible single point of failure for these three particular blinkers...next step is to pull the ARC computer connector and clean all the contacts. Where was that rascal? Remove the secret sliding glovebox and look up?

Jim
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post #56 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-13-2008, 07:31 PM
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DANG DON! Whooda thunkit? I just went out and checked the fluid levels- all three problems solved!
Actually I was wondering if there is a connector or other possible single point of failure for these three particular blinkers...next step is to pull the ARC computer connector and clean all the contacts. Where was that rascal? Remove the secret sliding glovebox and look up?
It's a shame it wasn't that easy!
I believe you have stated where that rascal is. Except its more above the 'vacant lot' glovebox, which is above the 'secret sliding' glovebox.

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post #57 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-14-2008, 03:32 PM
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WOW. Everything works now. No flashing lights. The low oil level was a loose connector, and the coolant and washer fluid were both stuck, gummed up floats. I now witness the power of a fully functional ARC!

Jim
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post #58 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-14-2008, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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I now witness the power of a fully functional ARC!
Yep, welcome to the best of 1986 technology. Be sure to wear your skinny tie.

Tom

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post #59 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-21-2008, 07:22 AM
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Noob Questions

Ok, I've got my ARC out because lately it's driving me bananas with the blinkin'. I looked this over and it **SEEMS** straightforward enough, BUT...

I've never lifted a solder iron before in my life. De-soldering? What? And exactly what's the right way to heat the back side of the board to loosen the solder without turning LEDs into FEDs (fire emitting diodes)?

I've found, over the years, that my intuition about such things is usually 100% wrong, so I'm always a little chary of trying to figure it out completely on my own. That said, I neither want nor expect to turn this thread into "soldering 101". If there are external "how-to" resources, just let me know. More explicit tool lists? Point the way. I can't possibly be the first noob going, "OOK? OOK!" looking at a soldering iron.

Finally, even though I've noticed an extremely distinct lack of offers, if anyone who's done this before would like to make some $ to recover from X-mas, PM me. I've got lots of tools, but none of them are for working on electronics. I'd just as soon hand the job off to someone who's done it before.

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post #60 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-21-2008, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dscottj View Post
I neither want nor expect to turn this thread into "soldering 101". If there are external "how-to" resources, just let me know. More explicit tool lists? Point the way. I can't possibly be the first noob going, "OOK? OOK!" looking at a soldering iron.
Well I don't think a soldering 101 would be out of place in this thread but there's little point in reinventing the wheel (specially since you could just trademark it these days) so I took a look at what Google said was on offer.

Out of the top 50 results, 80% are close to useless and the remainder only cover about 90% of the task. But they do tell you either enough or too much to do a reasonable solder joint.

This site gives a reasonable run down on equipment and a quick summary of how to make the perfect solder joint but there is a bit of detail missing in steps 4,5,6. This site goes a little bit overboard, NASA type quality.

This site give more detail on the overall act but lacks detail in the same area as above. Do not skip the Basic De-soldering Photo Gallery page.

Both sites provide enough detail to complete a good solder joint.

Equipment: for the type of thing most people on this forum are going to be doing I would suggest a 25W-40W pencil type soldering iron, cheap, portable and will do the job. I use a 40W, it's easier for bigger jobs but takes a little more skill on small circuit board tracks. A 25W can also destroy circuit board tracks, just takes a tiny bit longer.

Solder: 60/40 (tin/lead) rosin cored 0.7mm (0.025"). Solder containing lead is being phased out but is easier to use. 0.7mm will do all the soldering you need, it will even solder battery cables, you just have to feed more into the joint.

Desoldering: I prefer a sucker (this style not a thumb operated one like this). A solder sucker can suck the track off the circuit board if heat is applied too long. The other choice is a desoldering braid (use a small one) but they can cause just as much damage.

Practice: Practice Practice Practice. Old radios, cassette players computer boards, lots of things to practice on. See how much it takes to melt a track off a board, Practice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dscottj View Post
Finally, even though I've noticed an extremely distinct lack of offers, if anyone who's done this before would like to make some $ to recover from X-mas, PM me. I've got lots of tools, but none of them are for working on electronics. I'd just as soon hand the job off to someone who's done it before.
You could try your local TV repair man.

Craig,
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