Check out the motor in my avatar - we did that dry-sump for a gentleman in Australia - pictures are found somewhere around here... Pump is the gold-coloured piece on the right of the engine (left of the picture...)
They are complicated creatures. They don't make immediate pressure to the bearings in after-market setups and that is a problem. I'LL USE A STUPID EXAMPLE TO ILLUSTRATE MY POINT:
Say you were to sit there (in theory) and crank the motor without it starting. You crank and stop, crank and stop - look, fiddle - crank again etc - you will eventually empty out the tank right in to the crank-case without ever registering one pound of pressure on your oil-pressure gauge! I have seen guys go through this even up to and including the point where you have to unhook the lines, crank it and manually pump the oil back in to the tank in the back of the car or wherever it is mounted!
When we sorted the motor in the picture, we started on a simple single filter and stock pump until that thing was 100% sorted, it cranked the first time every-time and the dyno-work was done. Then you change sumps, pump, hook up your pump etc.
I have the whole entire setup for sale that I was going to use on my 3.7 - brand new pump and everything and I LOVE the story about the benefits at higher rpm due to "windage" etc. I have access to the stuff AT COST and I chose not to run it - if that tells you anything. Also, when that little belt driving the pump off of the crank-pulley snaps or comes off, it is all over!
On a full-race engine/team with budget; yes - you will be changing bearings often and inspecting things any way!
On a road/street-track/even a dedicated track and race once in a while privateer car - don't bother. The Alfa pumps are REALLY good - regardless of what the pressure sender says...
Full-Race 3.7 Litre 24v Milano 6-Speed Getrag; Restored Street/Track 3.0 Litre 24v Milano Verde; 3.7 Litre 24v Turbo Project!
Last edited by junglejustice; 05-28-2007 at 09:02 AM.