E brake Adjusting - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-28-2010, 10:24 PM Thread Starter
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E brake Adjusting

Am I doing something wrong?
I raised the back of the car, I loosened the 10mm nut and I proceeded to turn in the 13mm nut almost an inch and Nothing happened when I lifted the ebrake handle. Still the car will roll. Handle went all the way up to its highest position. Is there another adjustment under the center console? I posted another post asking how you get that dang center console off. Now the cables are connected. When you lift the handle you can see both calipers levers moving with nice uniformity. You can even see the pads come in contact with the rotors but no squeezing power. Lets say my pads are worn would that affect the ebrake? I don't know if they are worn, so i am pre asking so to speak.

1987 Milano Platinum Modified, 2001 Mercedes Benz SLK 230 AMG Kompressor
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-28-2010, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krazymaan View Post
Is there another adjustment under the center console?
No, the only adjustment is at the calipers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by krazymaan View Post
Lets say my pads are worn would that affect the ebrake?
Can do. The rear calipers are supposed to be self adjusting however sometimes they don't. When the pads wear the "ebrake" is less effective. In fact, if the "ebrake" takes too many clicks it's time to adjust the rear brake pads.

Properly adjusted the "ebrake" should be effective at just three clicks, if it gets to five, adjust the pads.



There are a few traps in adjusting the pads:
Three adjust one way (eg. clockwise) and one adjusts the other.

The outer adjustments have lock nuts and tightening the lock nuts can change the adjustment.

The outer adjustments should have covers but may not.

The outer adjustments should have 'C' clips to stop the adjuster pulling in instead of pushing the piston (but may not). If the adjuster pulls in the caliper may leak at the adjuster but if you can get the adjuster back out it should stop leaking.


Anyway, adjusting the rears isn't hard if none of the above gets in the way:
Loosen the "ebrake"

Adjust the inner pads so that the disk locks when turned by hand.

Loosen the inner pads until the disk just turns by hand.

Using the special tool (or a socket held with vice grips) loosen the lock nuts on the outer pads.

Adjust the outer pads with an allen key so that the disk locks when turned by hand. If there are no 'C' clips (described above) do not turn the adjuster past the point where the groove for the 'C' clip starts disappearing. If this happens you need to find some suitable "C' clips.

Loosen the outer pads with an allen key until the disk just turns by hand.

While holding the allen key, tighten the lock nut. Check that the disk still just turns by hand.

Adjust the "ebrake" until three clicks is hard on.

Craig,
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 05:13 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I will try that. Having no ebrake with a stick car is just not fun.

1987 Milano Platinum Modified, 2001 Mercedes Benz SLK 230 AMG Kompressor
2001 Powerstroke 14' Cube Van 430hp, 890lbs tq, Its a Beast
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 06:54 AM
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And... if you have the new style tensioner and let the car roll backwards in gear there is a chance that the tensioner will let the timing belt slip resulting in valve to piston contact.

Paul

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-29-2010, 09:04 AM
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and, click on Craig's 'Craig's Place' link in his signature block and download the shop manual.

Jim
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