papajam

Hey Jim:

I don't have your current email, as the optonline address comes back to my email server as undeliverable. With your reply, please provide me your new email address. Still believing for the return of your GTV.

You helped me wire a set of quad-Euro H1 lamps in my Nuova Super a year or so ago, and now I’m heading into another Alfa wiring project: converting a Spider with 7 in sealed beam units to Cibie 7 in H4 lamps.



I’ve a set of relays, and would appreciate any advice on how I might make use of the fusebox, if possible, on a 1989 Quad Spider. One source recommends setting up the relays in the trunk, near the battery, but that entails routing wires from the relay to the fusebox or the lamps.



You came up with a really clean system where I mounted the relays right beside the fusebox, and tapped into the headlamp/driving lamp circuits, inserting a relay for the headlamp circuit, and the driving lamp circuit. I’m hoping a similar approach is available for an H4 conversion.



Thanks in advance for your advice. I’m hoping the same approach will work as we used last time… or something close.



I summarized the approach you provided me over the phone, and I’ve copied it below. Will the same approach, and same fuse locations work with the H4 system? I haven’t taken a look at anything yet, as I pick up the car later this week or early next week.



Installation of Relays to

Protect Lamp Column Switch



For those of you with 70's and earlier vintage Alfas, you may be surprised to find that your headlamp and driving/fog lamps, may be run through the column mounted switch, without the use of relays. My 75 Nuova Super has the Euro light set up, with 4 H1 bulbs. When the high beams are hit, all four lamps run at once. It's marvelous night lighting, but at just under 5 amps per bulb, and with 4 bulbs, that's some 20 amps running through that column switch. Is this switch beefy and up to the task? I guess. But to insure it won't need replacement from being fried, I sought the help of a Porsche fan, who offers a prewired, relay rig, and our own Papajam. Here's what I've come up with, and it works great. Each time I switch on the lamps, or flash them, I hear the little click of the relays engagement, and feel more secure.



What you need are the following items. All of these parts, in the right sizes, are available at NAPA.



1. In line fuse assembly with 25 amp fuse and gauge of wire of similar size to the main power provided to the fuse box. (It's the biggest red wire into the fuse box. You won't miss it)



2. A set of relays. You may get a couples set from Marcus Sucr (310-658-7886) with instructions which he will tailor to your install. He's a car nut like us, so you won't get billed engineering time. He does charge some $30-$35 for his relay set up and wiring harness. I ended up using a Hella relay with a built in mini-fuse at 15 amps per lamp circuit.



3. Some short lengths of colored wire, to keep track of which connections are made to which blade on the relay and corresponding blade on the fuse box.



4. An assortment of shielded, male and female connectors. You will need some larger ones to connect up the piggyback connection from the power source (big red wire) to the relays.



5. An insulation displacement coupler (common term, vampire connector), to build a pig-tail power connection from the big red wire to the relays.



6. A dual blade connector to attach to a grounding source under the dash.



Here's what you do. And by the way, using the pair of Hella relays, I mounted them using the self tapping screws which hold the fuse box under the dash, which gets the wiring and relays out of the way, and keeps them out of the elements, and avoids the need to weatherize them under the hood.



1. I began this project by drawing a diagram of the relay, with colored wires associated with each of the relays connections, numbered "30", "85", "86" and "87".



#30 is the hot, power connection.



#85 is the ground connection.



#86 is the lamp circuit which connects to the wire from the lamps (the bottom wire on the fuse box, #7 for low beam and #9 for high beam)



#87 is also the lamp circuit which connects to the spade connector at the fuse box , #7 for low beam, and #9 for the high beam)



2. I then pulled the fuse box from under the dash, and examined the connections, taking notes on how I would need to attach my male/female connectors to make the install easiest. I transferred this info to my diagram to avoid confusion, and built out a small harness for each relay, to make the install easy to complete, under the dash. It was simply making the connections, testing the circuits, and then closing things up.



3. With diagram done, colored wires noted as to their respective assignments (blades 30, 85, 86 or 87 and or the power source pigtail, or the substitution of wires representing the lamp circuits), I got to work under the dash, with the fuse box pulled.



4. I first installed a dual blade connector, to a bolt that came through the firewall, and to the left of the sterring column, and out of the way of the hanging pedals. This would be my groud source.



5. I pulled the large red power wire from the fuse box (yes, there was power there, as the clock stopped working... an easy sign as opposed to getting my circuit tester out) and used the NAPA sourced Vampire connection to peel off power from the large red wire (with large male blade/female connector) under fuse location #2 and coupled the in-line fuse/wire assembly.



6. For the power connection, I took the prepared and pre-wired, and pre-connected relay sets out, and made a short wire in order to to attach each of the relays, by means of a pair of coupled lines to a single larger blade, which then connected to the large female connector on the coupled, power source/in-line fuse assembly (this was about 12 ga wire, similar to the large red wire). Each of the other sides of this coupled wire set would then attach to the power connection for the relays (#30 location). While working, I did not have the fuse installed, so their was no power until I was done with the job. This 2 into 1 wire connector was then attached by appropriate connectors, to the prepared wires on the relays, and THIS POWER SOURCE/HOT LINE GOES TO BLADE #30 ON EACH RELAY.



7. I then attached the grounds by the wires from the relay, coming from blade #85. I used a black wire for each ground. With a double male blade connector bolted to the firewall, I CONNECTED THESE GROUND WIRES TO POSITION #85 ON EACH RELAY.



8. Now pull the wire from the lower side of the #7 fuse position (my wire was tan with what seemed like a black stripe) and attach this female connector to YOUR LOW BEAM RELAY AT BLADE #86. Go to the lower side of fuse #9, and attach this female connector to YOUR HIGH/FOG BEAM RELAY AT BLADE #86.



9. Now attach the final wire from each relay to the lower blade of the fuse box in the respective position. THIS WILL BE BLADE #87 FOR THE LOW AND HIGH/FOG BEAM, WHICH SHOULD BE ATTACHED TO THE FUSE #7 BLADE AT THE FUSE BOX FOR LOW BEAM AND FUSE #9 AT THE FUSE BOX FOR THE HIGH/FOG BEAM.



Put the in-line fuse together and return the power connection (big read wire) to its place in the fuse box, and test for each circuit's operation. Presuming they work (hope I haven't mixed up my #86 and #87 connections... did this from memory!), button things up, and enjoy the peace of mind.



Cheers.

Mike Newman
aka Ish-Man
904-631-4488 Cell

thanks very much, I will be sure to post pics of the buildup as it comes along.

does anyone know the performance potential/limitaitions of the spica injection system? (sure a call to wess ingram could answer the question, but I figure since I am here).

kevin

ciao,

I saw your posting that you had wiring diagrams available. I am in need of a diagram for a 76 spider 2000. mainly dash area (as I am redoing it to make into a racecar). I will be more than happy to make a donation to the forum in appreciation.

thanks in advance.


kevin

kjoel_arts@yahoo.com

Hi I was told on the BB you might have a master cylinder for a 1969 spider. mine went out this past weekend and I am have a hard time finding one

Thanks

Gregg

Jim, I never did igure out how to donate to the BB. The links I found, one on your page and one on another page, did not work. Can you send me the email address that the BB uses for PAypal?

Thanks,

Bill

hello

do you have a electric drawing for a 1974 spider (USA type with spica injection) that has mover to europe?

regards,

Gunther

thank you for the great info
my emial is ric_sahakian@yahoo.com

thank you

As i had a question on my tread - 74 spider project - the gents have suggested to ask for your guidance.

I have a question in regards to the seat belt box on passenger side of my 74 spider. how can i remove it or should i?
if i do i would like to realy clean it up so where do these wires go?

thank you

Hello!
I was referred by another member. I inherited a 1965 Giulia SS. Do you have any documentation on this car that I may see?
Thanks!

HELP AGAIN lol
i was talking to LEE . (duett01). he said u have a cd for rebuilding alfa engines, would u care to sell me a copy please,
i guess the book i have is worthless he said , email is JAM@GRA.MIDCO.NET