#46 (permalink)  
Old 05-21-2007, 10:24 PM
180OUT 180OUT is offline
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[quote]
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpv View Post
here is some progress...

I've been removing the engine. But I'm having some dificulties. The engine needs to tilt a bit more to get out but the gearbox interferes with the flywheel.
I think I'm going to lower the gearbox to get the sucker out...
With that kind of engine lift, pulling the motor with the gearbox attached is very hard. If you had a hoist suspended from the roof of your garage you'd be able to get a better angle. With the lift you are using you'll find it's much easier to get the engine out if you remove the gearbox first. It's not that hard to do because the 'box isn't all that heavy. You just get the car up as high as possible on jack-stands, take everything loose, drop the gearbox onto your chest (it won't hurt---trust me) and then roll out from under the car.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 05-26-2007, 01:28 PM
sndesign sndesign is offline
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You can try jacking up the rear of the car as high as possible,
this gives you more tilt angle to get it out with the gear box attached.
Otherwise you will need help to push down on the back of the motor
as you pull from the (top) front.
Good luck
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2007, 10:06 PM
magaoidh magaoidh is offline
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What are the latest developments on your car JPV?I am following with great interest.
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 07-13-2007, 06:59 AM
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Hello!

I've been busy lately so the car hasn't got a lot of attention. But last night I've got around to get the engine and gearbox out.



As sndesign sugested I jacked up the rear of the car and it helped but the engine still was a bit stuck. I putted a jack under the sump with the engine already hoisted and pushed the car down. Only then it came out. It was stuck only by a thread! I don't know how am I going to put it back there again without scratching the paint work though...



Then I turned the attention to the gearbox. I removed it with the trasmission shaft attatched.

The clutch servo gave me a lot of trouble because it was completely seized. The only way was to remove the flexible fluid tube and leave the servo on the gearbox.



After all was loose I just pulled it out of the car...



It's out!

Without the engine it's easier to see the condition of the body.
The front panel and the lower front member are very corroded. They are going to need some work...




Abraēos!
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Old 07-13-2007, 04:08 PM
magaoidh magaoidh is offline
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Mate, you are very brave to do a Junior Z resto. You have most of the Zagato parts? The door trims and the seats may be hard to get???
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 07-13-2007, 06:00 PM
sndesign sndesign is offline
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Its Out

Way to go !, It's like a metal baby popped out.
Did you do it all by yourself, sometimes the last wiggle is best with a helper.

If you have to put it back in solo, you might want to put the engine in and the trans in as two steps, just make sure to match up the engine and trans on the ground to line everything up, then have at it.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 07-15-2007, 06:03 PM
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Hi all!

No, I didn't do this alone. I had help from my dad.

I'm still missing the seats and some minor details. I will try to gather them until the end of this year...
I know that it will be almost impossible to find a set of original seats but I have a pair if GTV2000 seats that will take their place until I find an original set...

I intend to remove the wiring harness and fluid pipes tomorrow night. I'll post more photos of the work soon...

Best regards!
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2007, 08:04 PM
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More work done!

I had to remove the servo so I could get better access to the wiring harness.



I loosened all the wiring harness in the engine bay and passed it to the cockpit.





This wiring is a lot more complicated than the ones I'm used to on my Bertone Alfas. It doesn't have easy connectors so I have to mark each wire so I'll now how to get it back together... A major PITA...

After removing the harness I started to remove the electrical components. I started on the wiper system. I had to remove the cover that was a bit stuck and rusted but all worked out well...





Found a new hole to repair...



Tomorrow I'm going to remove the heater system that is filled with tree leafs. On the other hand it's in very good shape. It's the best heater I've found on Alfas! The plastic case is impecable!!!
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Old 07-18-2007, 10:58 PM
magaoidh magaoidh is offline
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Wow, mate you are regular martyr!!!
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 08:55 AM
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Worthwhile and interesting project
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 11-17-2008, 01:18 PM
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Hey guys!

Got back to work on the JZ!

The car went to the body shop where it has been scraped to bare metal.

The rot has surfaced and a lot of work is going to be needed.

Here are some photos:















I have some questions: what are these holes for?





and what about these rivets on the inside wheel cover??



Any help is apreciated!
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2008, 02:37 AM
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don515jz don515jz is offline
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These photos bring back some memories, but looking at it I think mine was worse.....

On a JZ the factory didn't weld the inner fender to the outer fender. What they did was use a rubber H-shaped profile to seal the gap. It’s the same profile they used to seal the mudguards in the front fenders. The problem with the rubber was that it would act like a sponge and soak-up water and eventually fall out leaving a gap between the inner and outer fender. An other problem is that sand and dirt works its way between the rubber and the fender here it sand away all traces of paint leaving bare steel open for the elements.
It looks like someone closed this by welding a steel strip on the inside of the fender and riveting it to the inner fender.
Somewhere in a box of left-over parts I have a little piece of this rubber. I will scan it tonight and give you the dimensions.

What surprised me with the Zagato was the difference in quality of the welds, at the rear there is this long, perfect weld that hardly needs any filler to make it smooth and in other places (the bottom of the A-pillar and the roof corners) there are welds that are covered with 10 to 15 mm of lead.

The wiring on a JZ isn't that much different from a GT or Spider, there are two lights in the door that are extra and there is the electric hatch that has separate cable loom with connector, running parallel to the cables for the rear lights etc.
The trick with electricity is to remove all the extra wires that the previous owners added. Then clean the ends and tape the loose wires you end up with something that looks presentable and makes much more sense. Once you lay out the cables in the car, they often connect to the right points. But for the moment this is not your problem, there are other issues you have to deal with first.

I hope you keep us informed about the progress love to see how it all comes together, looks like you have a long road ahead but in the end it's all worth it.

Don
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2008, 06:38 AM
AllthingsZagato AllthingsZagato is offline
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On a Fulvia Zagato, which uses the same foam sealing I removed it and replaced with a strip of Viton rubber shich I bonded in place with aerospace spec flexible adhesive around the wing(fender) and inner structure of the car.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2008, 06:00 PM
magaoidh magaoidh is offline
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The sealing rubber on the wheel arches is also used on the Guilia Super in the engine bay at the top of the firewall.Try AFRA if you want original!
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2008, 02:07 PM
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Zaagmans Zaagmans is offline
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Great going Joao and so good to see another JZ being saved from the crusher!

I'll go through al your posts to see if I can be of help.

Many of the parts found on the JZ that are not "specifically Zagato" come from the 1300 Junior Spider which served as the basis for the JZ.

Consequently, the rear view mirror that you need is the same as from that Spider. A lot cheaper than when you are trying to find a mirror for a JZ and exactly the same thing...

Please note that the 1300 JZ did NOT come with carpets but with rubber mats only. A set consists of 3 pieces; the front two are again the same as for the 1300 Spider. I am not sure if the third one is also identical to the Spider. The sets are available from most parts dealers who supply current production rubber items for the 105 series. (Re-originals, Cicognani etc).

Here is a 1969 photo of the dashboard of the 1300 but please note that this was a prototype so there might be small differences.


The arm rests are notoriously weak on the JZ's and are often replaced by the ones found in the 1750 Berlina... this is also the case with yours... The originals are the same as for the post-1965 Giulia Super (105.26) and are devilishly difficult to find (looking for a LH example myself...).
This is what it looks like:



The interior door panels are NOT original... I'll see if I can shoot some pictures of originals on my cars.

The holes in the back of your car are NOT original.

The rivets in the back of your car are NOT original.

The original steel wheels for the JZ are indeed coming from the 1300 GTAj. These are the only two Alfa's that had these wheels as original equipment. Again, very hard to find as many JZ's had them swapped for mags over the years and the steel originals were usually scrapped...

I'll try to find some more answers for you.

In the mean time, may I aks you to send me a PM with the serial number? I would love to enter the car in the register @ Alfa Romeo Zagato Register & Information Site

Last edited by Zaagmans; 11-20-2008 at 04:36 AM. Reason: typo + additional note on the wheels
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