Electronic Ignition Distributor

[JHMAlfa]

HELP!

Bought one of the new distributors with the inbuilt electronic ignition and 16 positions for curves for my 73 2000 GTV to replace the horrible annoying awkward and sometimes downright dangerous to work on Marelli distributor. Looks great, following instructions and set the to correct curve (my car has hi lift cams)...

While I was there also did new plugs, new leads etc... basically did the lot once and for all.

But, nothing. She wont start. Followed all the instructions and nothing. Put her marelli dizzy back in and she starts on the key...

Ideas? Has anyone else used / installed one? What curve did you use? Should the curve be different for a Marelli than the one used to replace a Bosch?

[Alfajay]

That's an odd symptom. No difference between advance curves would make a "start" - "no start" difference. As long as your static advance is set to somewhere between 0 and 10 degrees BTDC, the thing oughta start.

This isn't to say that advance curves aren't important - at mid-range and certainly top end, they can matter alot. But not for starting.

Is there any special coil required for those 123 distributors (I presume the installation instructions would mention this)? Do you have the recommended coil? When you put a timing light on the dist --> coil wire, does it show any firing at all? If "no", then something is seriously wrong; if "yes", then it's a timing issue.

I'd re-check all of my connections (which you probably have already done), and then get in touch with whoever sold the unit to you, and ask if there is something not mentioned in the installation instructions. Or, if you may have simply received a bad unit.

[JHMAlfa]

Thanks - there is current getting to the unit - the static timing light in the unit under the rotor arm is working, and set to the correct position.

With the coils they work with the standard bosch coil, nothing special needed there... Coil is the only thing I havent replaced this time round (its less than 2 years / 2000 miles old!) and if that was faulty then she wouldnt start with either distributor.

One thing I dont know is if I need to remove the condensor? Nothing in the instructions relates to the condensor at all... so difficult to tell. Again this is relatively new (same age as coil) and if faulty nothing would start her.

I reckon its back to the shop - possibly a dodgy unit then!

[AndyW]

you should be using D for a tuned engine, i fitted mine about 6months ago and it all worked straight away, when i pulled my dizzy the condensor is on the side of it, so it was taken out of the equation.

You set it up as per the instructions by setting the static timing with the green LED. (sorry i dont mean to suck eggs !)

also have a look on their site they have some FAQ's/instructions etc which may help you. 123ignition electronic ignition systems for classic cars

Good Luck

[wynkins]

Quote:

Originally Posted by AndyW i fitted mine about 6months ago and it all worked straight away

[AndyW]

im more than happy, they work really well, Richard at ClassicAlfa has worked further with them to add some better advance curves etc. later this year they will be bringing out a usb version so you can down load your own curves into it.
Have a chat with Richard.

[Wille R.]

Same as the other dealers in Europe, I assume. Mine works very well, same piece as from Alfa Romeo Parts and Spares www.highwoodalfa.com

[reuven]

First thing, take out a spark plug and check if you see the spark while turning the starter.
Second thing, if someone "played" with your old distributor it might be that you have a deference of 180 degrees in the ignition with the 123 one.
This can be checked easily.

[Alfajay]

Reuven may be on to something here.

We all know that the Alfa distributor will only go in one way - the key at the bottom of the distributor shaft is off-center, so you can't install a given distributor 180 off, and have it fully seat.

However, that key is held onto the shaft with a pin, and if JHMalfa's old distributor was ever disassembled, it is possible that the key was reinstalled onto the shaft 180 degrees off. So, substituting the 123Ignition dist for the old one would result in problems if the wires were installed into the cap in the same orientation.

I would re-install the old distributor, and note the direction the rotor is pointing. Then, I would install the 123, and make sure that its rotor is pointing in the same direction. If it is 180 off, you can either press out the pin and reinstall the key or just swap around the wires in the cap.

[alfaparticle]

I bench tested mine to verify sparks before installed it. Pull the long HT wire from the center of the distributor and connect it to a spark plug. Let the plug lie on top of the cam cover and crank the engine. You should see lots of sparks if the system is working.
If you have no sparks, check the wiring to the coil. The timing led will light if there is power to the red wire, even if the coil is not hooked up properly. Make sure that the black wire from the distributor is connected to the -ve side of the coil. and the red wire with 12 volts is connected to the +ve side of the coil. There should be no capacitors (condensors) hooked up. There should also be no ballast resistor in the circuit.

If you have sparks but the engine won't run, then the plug wires are mixed up. Pull the plugs. Shine a flashlight down #1 plug hole and rotate the engine so that it is at TDC and the valves are closed. Look at the position of the rotor arm. The plug wire that it is pointing to goes to #1 cylinder. The others will be in the normal order.


I have run both the A curve (Standard Bosch) and the E (Shankle) curve. My motor has 10:1 pistons, Richard Jemison racing cams and Webers with 34mm venturis. The Shankle curve is livelier, gets better gas mileage and does not ping on mid range gas.