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Old 01-09-2008, 05:15 PM
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69 GTV Brake Pressure Sensor Manifold - Piston Seals

I could use some assistance on this one.

I've taken a bit of break away from the bodywork part of the restoration and decided to have look inside the Brake system Pressure Manifold. Now the sensors and the threaded end cap came off surprisingly easily, however the inside pistons were a different story. I had to heat the housing up about 3 times with the propane torch and slammed the open end on a block of wood....eventually the pistons dropped out.

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However quite a bit of goop and remnants of the one seal was found inside along with some minute corrosion spots here and there. The plating on the pistons has also come off in many places.

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Has anyone else had a go at reconditioning these? If so, where can these seals be purchased from? BTW...so far I've only checked suppliers' Web sites and have not come across them.
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1969 105.51 1750 GT Veloce (restoring)
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1...storation.html

Last edited by 1750GT; 09-03-2008 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 01-09-2008, 05:51 PM
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Seals are not available for these. Some Porsches of the same vintage have a master cylinder with this device "built in". I'll bet $20 the pistons and seals are the same as what is in our cars. Search Fleabay for Porsche or Ate cylinders. You might be able to find a used one.
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Old 01-09-2008, 06:15 PM
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Osso, for now I'd rather not go down a long investigative path only to find that the Porsche ones are bigger/smaller by .020 or so. So I'm crossing my fingers here and hoping that someone on the BB has already done some leg work and found a source for these.
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1969 105.51 1750 GT Veloce (restoring)
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1...storation.html
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Old 01-11-2008, 01:01 AM
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What does this part do?

Sorry to butt in here, but... what, exactly, does this pressure sensor manifold do?

I'm rebuilding/replacing the brake system on my GTV and fabricating new lines. I'm hoping to simplify the plumbing and do without this manifold... but I'm not sure if it provides a critical function.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
George
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Old 01-11-2008, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gattia86 View Post
Sorry to butt in here, but... what, exactly, does this pressure sensor manifold do?

I'm rebuilding/replacing the brake system on my GTV and fabricating new lines. I'm hoping to simplify the plumbing and do without this manifold... but I'm not sure if it provides a critical function.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
George
It's called a differential pressure warning device. It's function is to detect a drop in pressure (a leak) and isolate that circuit so that you still have brakes. So if one of the front brake lines starts leaking, it shuts off the flow of brake fluid to the front brakes. You'll still have the rear brakes. Oh, it also turns on a light on the dash to warn you of the drop in pressure.
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Old 01-11-2008, 07:16 AM
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This particular device is only used on the 69 GTV with the dual booster set-up....(if I'm not mistaken). It is quite a sophisticated arrangement...albeit expensive due to the number of parts involved...floor petal assembly, 2 boosters and this manifold/pressure warning device. It's no wonder they opted to go with the simpler (cheaper) design as offered by ATE with the drop down pedal configuration.

Osso FYI, I found a seal supplier (Parker-Hannifin) that has an existing seal that may fit the geometry of the piston groove and housing bore. It's their C2 series piston seal....but I need to investigate the material compatibility further.
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http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1...storation.html
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Old 01-11-2008, 07:17 AM
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...deleted duplicate of previous post (sorry about that)..
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1969 105.51 1750 GT Veloce (restoring)
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1...storation.html

Last edited by 1750GT; 01-11-2008 at 08:04 AM. Reason: duplicate
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Old 01-11-2008, 01:10 PM
davbert davbert is offline
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osso

Do people often have trouble bleeding the 69's brake because of this device?

I hear the trick is to bleed both (cross-opposite, ie LF and RR) calipers at the same time.


d
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Old 01-11-2008, 04:16 PM
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Well, looks it like the lead for possibly finding a seal manufacturer has dried up rather quickly! I'd have to order more than 1,000 pieces so that they could justify starting up production in Germany.

So I guess I'll now have to look into the Porsche lead that Osso suggested.
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1969 105.51 1750 GT Veloce (restoring)
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Old 01-11-2008, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davbert View Post
osso

Do people often have trouble bleeding the 69's brake because of this device?

I hear the trick is to bleed both (cross-opposite, ie LF and RR) calipers at the same time.


d
Yes, it's a PITA.. Papajam and I used a pressure bleeder while pumping the master cylinder. We didn't do two calipers at the same time, we did only one at a time. Papajam prefers to prime the master cylinder with brake fluid before starting.
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Old 01-11-2008, 04:47 PM
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I believe that other, later-model Alfas also used this switch/junction block. Mid 70's spiders have them mounted on the right hand fenderwell, sort of near the starter.

It's odd that with all the parts available for 105 cars, no one offers new or rebuilt rear pressure-limiting valves, or this differential pressure sensor. (Yes, I know that there are aftermarket sources for the rear pressure-limiting valves). You'd think that ATE would have sold these parts to a number of car manufacturers, and that replacement parts would still be made. But, I guess not.

To ask a naive question, why not just eliminate the thing? I don't see that it performs all that vital a function: I'd like to think that if anyone on the BB lost half of their brakes, that they wouldn't need an "idiot" light to tell them!

A simple fix would be to install a couple of unions to tie the existing lines together. A more sophisticated fix would be to gut the housing, install some sort of a dam at its center, and re-install it. The concours judges aren't going to to ask you to cut a brake line to prove that the warning light really works!
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Last edited by Alfajay; 01-11-2008 at 04:51 PM.
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Old 01-11-2008, 05:43 PM
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We don`t have these on the Euro versions, so I`m guessing it can be eliminated but I`m a fan of keeping these cars reasonably original. If you retain it and there is corrosion in the bore that won`t go with a light hone you will need to get the unit resleeved-locally we get them done in stainless. The pistons are easy to make up in a lathe if you have access-again I would turn out of stainless rod, but I would first of all give them a rub in wet and dry to see if they come up better. Those seals don`t look particularly unusual. surely you guys have a brake specialist/remanufacturer like us that has an extensive range of seals-they are all made to a handful of diameters so it is the shape and depth that you need to match up. If stuck I can provide the details of a local firm that I deal with. We`ve been making do with and rebuilding things down here you guys wouldn`t even think was possible.

Richard J

`65 Giulia Ti, `69 GT Junior, `74 GTV 2000, `76 Alfetta GTV, `77 Alfetta GTV, `84 GTV6
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Old 01-11-2008, 06:07 PM
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Jay...I'm not too keen on modifying a braking system component that to me seems to have a lot merit and function (notwithstanding the fact that it is a complex system by later standards). I'm very confident that the braking system was carefully thought out and purposefully designed by the automotive engineers at ALFA with a lot more experience than us. Also, I don't believe that a warning light should be termed an "idiot light" either. As Osso explained, a loss of fluid on side (one half of the system) will cause this valve to shut the flow through it thereby preventing a total loss of fluid from the reservoir. If you simply introduce a dam in the unit you could potentially lose all of the fluid....not a scenario that I'd want to be caught in. Lastly, don't underestimate the liability situation that one might be trapped in should a "modified" vehicle be involved in a traffic accident.....or god forbid a traffic fatality! That said, thanks for the suggestion anyway.
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1969 105.51 1750 GT Veloce (restoring)
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Old 01-11-2008, 06:21 PM
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Richard, yes the bore itself should hone out nicely, it's mainly the seals and the pressure switches that I'll be needing. One seal looks OK physically but it is almost 40 years old and probably well past it's expected life. I will continue my search locally (I've really only just started). The warning switch has part number 0343102010 and is BOSCH unit used on same period Porsches (seems to be available in Germany). The other two sensors are ATE units that may or may not be functioning (I haven't tested these yet) but if they are available NOS I'd like to get them for spares. In the end I may very well come back and ask you for the name of the shop you deal with.

Thanks.
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Old 01-11-2008, 06:28 PM
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I know that when I was rebuilding all four brake calipers on my '74 that there was guite a lot of goop in each of them. Kind of a jelly-like substance, but blackish dirty,well, goop!
Once everything was all cleaned out and with new seals in the bores I was feeling kind of good inside that I'd "done another good brake job" but now I see I've missed a rather important part of the brake circuit. I wouldn't take that dual circuit valve out either. It's there for a purpose and somewhere on this planet (and if you do find one let us all know will you? ha ha ha ), there is a supplier of those seals.
Also, I think using heat on any brake part not near the calipers is a risky technique to remove the pistons. My money would go on using compressed air and a fluffy rag to catch the projectiles. And I don't even have a compressor, but some actions require the use of a mechanic's shop, even if it's just for the air...
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