Changing GTV water pump

jimcra · #1 (**permalink**) 04-06-2007, 06:05 PM

After deciding to do the No Frills Iron Bottom run next week I decide to check/change hoses, take radiator out, flush it and change the water pump. What was Alfa thinking? Am I correct in guessing I can't get the pump out without taking the crank pulley off? If so, what is the right way to take the crank pulley off? What size nut holds th crank pulley on? Is it reverse threaded? Any help is appreciated. FYI, the bottom radiator hose is worth more than gold, nobody has any!

**Andrew** · #2 (**permalink**) 04-06-2007, 06:09 PM

On a US Spica-injected car, the nut is 38mm or comparable inch size. If you're lucky, you can double-nut and remove the lower water pump studs, which should allow the pump to be removed without removing the pulley. It's still a squeeze, but can be done.

Andrew

jimcra · #3 (**permalink**) 04-06-2007, 06:15 PM

Andrew, Thanks for the tip on the double-nut. Is it a pain to take the pulley off? Do I need 1,000 lbs of torque to get the nut off?? I am leaning toward your idea though...

**Andrew** · #4 (**permalink**) 04-07-2007, 12:06 PM

The best way to get the nut off is with an air wrench; it's torgued to pretty high; maybe 180 ft lbs? I don't have the figure handy. Otherwise if you can lock the flywheel somehow (there is a factory tool) you can break it loose with a long breaker bar.

It's very common to remove the lower studs on the pump. I'm sure if you do a search here you'll find earlier discussions of it. Also take off the tach drive, which can give you a bit extra clearance.

Andrew

sndesign · #5 (**permalink**) 04-07-2007, 10:56 PM

If you don't have an air impact you can rent an electric inpact gun for 30
bucks, that should take it off.

jimcra · #6 (**permalink**) 04-09-2007, 08:40 AM

Thanks for all the tips! I'll be playing with it later today. I'm starting with an electric impact borrowed from a brother and see what happens from there. Thanks again!!

**GTV4EVR** · #7 (**permalink**) 04-09-2007, 08:57 AM

Make sure you bend the lock tab back first

jimcra · #8 (**permalink**) 04-09-2007, 01:47 PM

Well, so far not good.. There is no lock tab and using a 300 LB electric Milwakee impact, it would not budge. Letting some Liquid Wrenc penetrating oil work it's magic? If that doesn't work, I'm thinking of taking a Dremel and cutting the bottom studs to get the pump off, and replacing the studs with bolts? When people take the studs off, do they leave them off permanently? Thanks again for the help..

**Andrew** · #9 (**permalink**) 04-09-2007, 01:52 PM

No, it will leak if you leave them off. Try double-nutting if there's room, to remove them, then thread them back in afterward, or use bolts of the right length.

Alternatively, drive to a shop and have them zap the nut with an air gun, then tighten it up just enough to drive home, where you can break it loose with a pry bar. This might involve putting the radiator back in, which gets complicated.

If you take off the little flywheel cover on the bottom of the bellhousing you can maybe lock the flywheel with something, and try to bust it loose with a 3-6 ft. breaker bar. There is a factory lock tool, not commonly found, but if you have a helper maybe he/she can hold that tool while you work on the pulley nut.

Andrew

jimcra · #10 (**permalink**) 04-09-2007, 09:24 PM

Well, got ur done! Squirted Liquid Wrench penetrating oil on the nut, waited an hour, used the electric impact with extensions through the front vents and off it came. There was no lock nut with a tab? The engine was rebuilt by PO, so someone forgot to put one on. Actually an easy job (with help from you guys) except for the problem with the nut frozen. Thanks again for the help!!