01-11-2007, 09:59 PM
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sydney Australia
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 Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex
Re the sill plates, I also suspect that I'm going to encounter the same problem on my car. I suspect that someone might have used a mastick or silicone etc to bond the plates to the sill and help keep out water. If this is the case with you, try using a hairdryer to see if that will free it up. Wider heads might chime in first, though.
Alex.
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If I remember right, there are also screws under the rubber seal strip.
Pete
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01-12-2007, 01:24 AM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 516
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byran
check to c if you have this bolt on your step nose for the neg terminal...
a great place for it
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01-12-2007, 07:25 AM
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Location: Billings and Bozeman Montana
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There are tiny screws under the rubber sealer strip, AND at each end of the sill threshold. ALSO, NOTE THAT THE TRIM STRIPS RUNNING VERTICAL ON THE DOOR MAY BE PINNING THE SILL PLATE, AND MAY HAVE TO BE REMOVED AS WELL. These screws and phillips head in my car were so small that even a small amount of rust/corrosion, made them not only hard to find, but nearly impossible to remove. I had to use a small burr on a pneumatic die grinder to remove the heads from the counterset depressions in the sill. A few came out, but I had to carefully brush out the screw head slots, and you'll have to get a really small phillips head driver. Since they are under the sealer strip, you might even use a dremel tool burr, and then drill and retap the sill for new screws.
And even a small amount of rust swell causes the sill to really be seated on the rail. Even after i removed every screww, I still had to carefully start lifting and removing the sill from the rear first.
Oh and BTW, my aluminum sill is all one piece, not two , as it may appear when you fisrt look at it.
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Tim
'67 GSGTV-Q (1975)
'69 GT 1300 Junior (current)
'66 Mustang Coupe (current)
Last edited by tek; 01-12-2007 at 07:33 AM.
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01-12-2007, 02:10 PM
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Location: Billings and Bozeman Montana
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PS.. here's afun few minutes ..You Tube video titled Giulia Sprint GT Onboard #2.
Crank up the sound !
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Tim
'67 GSGTV-Q (1975)
'69 GT 1300 Junior (current)
'66 Mustang Coupe (current)
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01-12-2007, 05:13 PM
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Bryan,
The thin bushings should not take but 5 minutes on a lathe if they are made out of delrin. Delrin can be purchased online at www.mcmaster.com Just buy 3" or 4" and deliver with sketch to your favorite machinist.
Hard part might be getting those old bushings of the T bar.
Cheers, Paul
__________________
I was wrong once before,
Paul Van Der Linden
Currently: 70 Giulia Ti 2.0L
Formerly:
(1) 58 spider 
(2) 67 duetto's  
(4) 67 super's
(2) 67 gtv's
(1) 70 gtam 
(2) 74 gtv's 
(1) 78 spider 
(1) 82 spider
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01-12-2007, 07:43 PM
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You can buy the poly T bar thrust washers from Andy at performatek 508-655-8079.
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01-13-2007, 04:56 AM
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Location: Sydney, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryan
i looked through centerline's catalog and they do not seem to offer these bushings. Any advice as to where to get them?
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They look like they would be easy to make - check this article on a South Australian AR Club member's site for how (and why) to replace them....
http://www.philipstorr.id.au/alfatec...nd/105hand.htm
They are slotted, so they can be replaced without removing the T-arm end bushings, but you will probably want to renew these as well - the article shows how.
__________________
Colin Connaughton
'67 GTV
'94 164 Super 24v
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01-13-2007, 10:55 AM
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Location: santa clarita, ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage prep
Bryan,
The thin bushings should not take but 5 minutes on a lathe if they are made out of delrin. Delrin can be purchased online at www.mcmaster.com Just buy 3" or 4" and deliver with sketch to your favorite machinist.
Hard part might be getting those old bushings of the T bar.
Cheers, Paul |
I got the door sills removed. My problem was that I made the mistake of thinking that it was two pieces (inner and outer) and I didnt think that the screws on the outer portion had an effect. So, just to confirm what probably everybody knew, the sill is one piece.
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Fast, Cheap, Reliable. Pick any two.
Last edited by bryan; 01-13-2007 at 11:35 AM.
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01-13-2007, 12:01 PM
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Bryan,
I dont really know how much extra vibration you would encounter. Of course, more vibration equals better suspension control  If you must use rubber, you can purchase 12" sq. sheets of it in various thickness from the same supplier and cut the shims youself with an Exacto knife or even good scissors.
__________________
I was wrong once before,
Paul Van Der Linden
Currently: 70 Giulia Ti 2.0L
Formerly:
(1) 58 spider
(2) 67 duetto's
(4) 67 super's
(2) 67 gtv's
(1) 70 gtam
(2) 74 gtv's
(1) 78 spider
(1) 82 spider
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01-13-2007, 12:38 PM
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Location: London UK
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These shims need to be solid, but self-lubricating. The up-down action of the trunnion against the end bearing housing, rubbing up against the shim either side, would soon cut through it if it were made of rubber. For this one you need nylon or delrin, I wouldn't use the poly version(s).
Alex.
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01-17-2007, 09:56 AM
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Location: santa clarita, ca
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Last night I finished attaching the brakes and lines to the rear axle. I also loosely attached the trailing arms. My plan is to get everything in place, without the springs, to watch every part move through the range of travel in order to help decide what I am going to do for suspension. I have been paying close attention to all the threads on suspension, and unfortunately is a little difficult to determine a concensus.
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Last edited by bryan; 05-24-2007 at 09:49 AM.
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01-17-2007, 01:53 PM
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Location: Sydney Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryan
And one other question that has been bugging me. Why are there no inner seals on these axles? What keeps the axle tubes from filling up with diff lube?
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Pete
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01-18-2007, 12:05 PM
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Location: santa clarita, ca
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSk
Isn't that what we need to happen so that the axle bearings get some oil too?
Pete
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Fast, Cheap, Reliable. Pick any two.
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01-18-2007, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryan
But what happens in turn 8 when everything evacuates the diff?
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Pete
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