Well, lets do this again! - Page 7

**akitaman** · #91 (**permalink**) 08-13-2006, 02:21 PM

It becomes worth it, when the dumb stooge doing the work, works really hard at not charging as much as he should. My thoughts are, if we can put it back together at a cost that is at or under fair market value of the car then we've done a good deed. Now, when I open my shop, (in the next month or two) the overhead of that shop, is going to effect the build cost.

PSk · #92 (**permalink**) 08-13-2006, 06:02 PM

Holy sh!t, I have never ever seen anything like welding that rear panel over top of the existing ... why for Pete's sake, would you do that!

This is a remanufacture, not a restoration!
Pete

**akitaman** · #93 (**permalink**) 08-13-2006, 07:12 PM

Ah Pete, I thought you of all people whould get a kick out of that.

Akitaman

PSk · #94 (**permalink**) 08-14-2006, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akitaman

Ah Pete, I thought you of all people whould get a kick out of that.

Akitaman

GoldCloverLeaf · #95 (**permalink**) 08-14-2006, 01:53 AM

Next thing you will see a fleet of 1980's Chevy Caprice Classics with custom 'dual beaver panels' filled with cocaine busted at the mexican border crossing

nicke · #96 (**permalink**) 08-14-2006, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akitaman

2000 trunks had deeper recess then 1750's. You are very correct. The jr. had no recess. The owner bought this trunk and doesn't mind that it is different......I think? Good question Adam! I have to meet up with him today. I'll make certain that he doesn't mind. Besides this is just a final practice run. The trunk will be repainted when the car gets painted. Thanks for bringing that up!

**akitaman** · #97 (**permalink**) 08-14-2006, 02:39 PM

Pete, the panel is contaminated from the rust that was on the old section. So no it will need replacement.

funny Goldclover.

Nick, I have one of all three types of trunks. So I kind of give up on who should have what..... Just as long as it fits!

**mubezzi** · #98 (**permalink**) 08-14-2006, 07:58 PM

Sounds like we have a Fiat owner who has lost his way, or at least has confused an Alfa Romeo for a Fiat.

Car came from the factory with paint code AR342 (French Blue) which is the color I wanted and is a 1969 GTV 1750. It's not the destination but rather the journey...

[Caption: Virgilio Conrero (center), George Ubezzi (right) and Ubezzi's Sprint Veloce Zagato (ex-Abate). Front and rear quarter bumpers distinguished 1956-57 SVZs from bumperless 1958-59 cars.] Alfa Romeo Veloce, The Racing Giuliettas 1956 - 1963, Donald Hughes & Vito Witting Da Prato, 1989, p28

**1750GT** · #99 (**permalink**) 08-14-2006, 08:08 PM

[quote]Oh I forgot the cut outs. I think it's important to note that anytime we have a cavity open like this, we always want to take the opportunity to inject cavity wax and self etching primer. This will prevent rust in the future.[quote]

Akitaman....do you use a specific product for this? I'm not familiar with "Cavity wax" as you call it.

Also, I noticed in a few of your posts that you mention the use of epoxy primer for sealing. Is this easy enough for a "non-pro " to apply onto the non cosmetic areas like the underbody and other internal structural panels say? Right now I've been using a general purpose rust inhibiting primer to cover the panels I'm repairing until I get it to the body shop.

**akitaman** · #**100** (**permalink**) 08-14-2006, 08:57 PM

First thing, Michael that is a cool picture of your father and is Conrad's!

Rossano- yes, you want to use epoxy when ever there is bare metal in play. The two choices I suggest are PPG DP-40 or DP-50. The other choice and equal in quality is Dupont 2580-CR. As for cavity wax, just about every proper restoration group uses it. Also every new car made is injected with it. Rocker repairs, frame rails and every enclosed area should be shot with it. It's a moisture barrier. I think VW started it in the late 80's early 90's. VW folks know, it leaves a drip here and there on the extra hot days of the years.

quadrifoglio · #**101** (**permalink**) 08-14-2006, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akitaman

VW folks know, it leaves a drip here and there on the extra hot days of the years.

105.31 · #**102** (**permalink**) 08-15-2006, 01:12 PM

Akitaman, alot of top class resto shops down here are using Spies Hecker paints. Ever used them, or able to compare them to the products you use now?? I realise that alot of painters like to stick with one manufacturer or paint system that they know well. I always used to use Epiglass Marine Epoxy Primer and DuPont top coat when I was painting, but haven't picked up a (paint) gun for 5 or 6 years now.
Won't even be painting my own car, but that is more time related than anything. I just don't have the time. Too busy working to pay for the car!!!

**akitaman** · #**103** (**permalink**) 08-15-2006, 02:14 PM

Spies Hecker is a good company. Dupont bought them a few years back. I use S/H primers all the time. I even know a few Dupont reps. who use S/H high build primer over there own stuff.

105.31 · #**104** (**permalink**) 08-15-2006, 03:28 PM

Excellent. I'm looking at their Etch primer, and their 2K system for the top coat. At the moment the colour will be a Lotus colour. Saffron Yellow. Used on the Lotus Elise. Should look good on a Stepfront, and is as close to the original colour (Yellow Ochre) as I am willing to go!!!!!

alfavirusnz · #**105** (**permalink**) 08-15-2006, 07:39 PM

Graham, do it the original colour. yellow ochre does look good on these and I feel you`ve always got to consider a worse case scenario-cash up. Original cars are easier to get out of and if you get your wife to photograph the rebuild all the better. Yellow ochre is one of those colours which reflect the period the car was built and in our local market is not an undesirable colour.

Richard J