What is the correct way to remove uni joints on the 105 driveshaft. Once the circlips are removed, it seems necessary to either tap out or press out the cups from the yoke. On the early style joint (with the grease nipple), there is a copper ring (grease retainer?) on the centre - does this need to be cut off to push out the cup?
What is the correct way to remove uni joints on the 105 driveshaft. Once the circlips are removed, it seems necessary to either tap out or press out the cups from the yoke.
Much as I admire the design of Alfa Romeos, this detail leaves something to be desired. There are two things about the design of the U joints that make disassembly/reassembly difficult:
1) The dimensions of the cups and yoke prevent you from just pushing the joint in one direction (as other makes allow). With the Alfa, you begin by pressing from one side until the opposite cup is just about out. Twist & pull the extended one with pliers to remove. Then you have to press from the opposite side - the side you just removed the cup from - to move the remaining cup back into operating position and then out. I have never gotten an old joint to budge with just hammer blows - a press has always been necessary (others will no doubt disagree).
2) The outside of the yokes are not at 90 degrees to the axis of the joint. So you can't just lay the yoke on the table of your press and push on it - you'll be pushing at an angle. A wedge-shaped holder, with an appropriate sized hole (that the cup can pass through) is needed.
On the early style joint (with the grease nipple), there is a copper ring (grease retainer?) on the centre - does this need to be cut off to push out the cup?
Funny you should mention that subject and I should elaborate on my answer above. I just finished replacing the rear u-joint and thought it might be helpful to document my process which is not to say this is the only way but it's been working for me a very long time, to long I wasn't supposed to live this long, talkin bout my generation... but back to the subject at hand..
notice the red red reference marks, not sure it really matters on the end of the joint, which makes me wonder... do they balance the shaft with the end joint connected?
using a hammer tap the cups out of each side, after removing circliips.
clean grooves and the rest of it
put the new spings in the ends of the u-joint
press cups in making sure you don't let a roll pin fall off, a good way is to move the joint itself back and forth to keep the ends inside the cup and preventing a pin from falling out even though I add some grease to hold them in.
Use a socket to press the rest of the way in all the while rotating the joint to make sure it's free. If you can't get the cups down to where the circlips will go back in it will be very hard to rotate, probably won't be able to move it at all. Try again.
I've tried to go the cheap route and bought ujoints with the grease fitting and they would bind up. I just get them from a good supplier now. As for the copper rings they should just come out and the new ones should have replacements.
Hi Gigem,
Many thanks for your write up with pictures. This inspired me to do this myself and replace my worn out (all needles gone on one end...) u joint.
Did it exactly the way you described, worked just fine
Cheers
Charles
The kit (from centerline - image below) does not have these copper retainer/seals - only a rubber seal. I guess there is enough pressure on the rubber seal to lock out any grit that might try to get into the roller bearing. I dont see that it is possible to remove the copper retainers without destroying them.
I haven't, can't remember who I got the joints for the red one from but they are basically the same from both. They've got about 15k on them and are doing fine. The ones I installed above came from IAP and the only dif I can see is the cap/seal is nylon or teflon and they are white.
Hi Dean,
I'm pretty sure you have the early style u-joints (up to 67). These don't have the internal springs, and are a different size. These do come with a grease fitting. I wouldn't buy these from a vendor that does not list a different part for 68 and later. There was a thread on u joints you might want to read before you buy: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/transmissions/141774-does-anyone-sell-u-joint-actually-fits.html
Reviving an old thread, eh. Read several threads on U-joints and would like to know what y'all think is the best source? I had a pair put in and now I have a vibration in the drive line. looks like they are sloppy.
I read an old thread that said DiFata Bros/Baltimore was always the most consistent. Centerline failed at times. Many of the off brands are iffy. What say the alfisti?
FYI: I ordered 2 U-joints for Giovanni Di Fatta/ this a.m. for only $30 a piece. He said they are the original Spica(though that was injection)joints and he has never had one returned nor received a complaint about them. And, he's really a hoot.
It's a little late but I've had good success with Centerline's U joints. If you get a chance post a snapshot of the box yours comes in. It'll be interesting to see if it's the same as some others.
I had a new set from IAP that caused vibration. On a hoist you could see the slop/ movement in the joint. Not much, but..... I found a thread on the Alfa website that spoke highly of Difatta's joints so, why not. I'm not good at posting pics but I will get back to u on the brand/ manufacturer.
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