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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2009, 05:13 PM
PSk PSk is offline
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Good luck, you are doing all the right things ... oh and if running a bead of weld works for you, all good!

I do remember having to play with my MIG when I got it, the wire feed didn't work consistently and I had to do a minor modification to make the pinch wheels grab properly. I've also tried diffent nozzles and tips, etc. and over time learnt what it likes. My father hates it , and yet he can do the most beautiful gas welds ...

You could gas weld that seam, if you are extremely patient. Suggest a really small tip like a 6 or 4 and have your hammer and dolly ready and tack and then weld between tack (like max 1 inch) and then while still hot hammer and dolly back into shape, and then tack again about 1 inch away and then weld up that inch and then hammer back to shape again ... repeat until seam completed.

I repaired one side of my car using gas welding before I purchased the MIG and it just is slower and frustrating trying to get that first tack as the metal bends away from the other piece when you apply heat ... but like anything practice makes perfect.

Again good luck.
Pete
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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 02:01 AM
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The gap in this weld is too wide to weld successfully



You will get exactly the results that you have. You need to get the two edges much closer - effectively touching if need be - then tack and tack between tacks (as suggested). The problem with a wide gap is that there's only half the material to absorb the heat and so it burns - but the settings aren't high enough to get enough material to bridge the gap. I tried those clamps that you are using the go through the gap but binned them as I think they are useless for car bodies. As a rule-of-thumb in my experience, the gap should be smaller than the thickness of the material.

I've effectively rebuilt my GT since I bought it including an epic repair after a major off at Castle Combe race circuit GTA Replica Project so have learned the hard way

Good luck

Richard
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2009, 06:49 AM
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Gents,

I'm not a welder myself -wish I were and very inspired by your projects - but I did notice these products in my new Eastwood catalog and thought they sounded like what you guys are talking about. So just in case, I thought I'd post these links:

4 and 8 inch magnetic Copper Butt-Weld Backer set

Welders Helper 3X3 Set Flat/Curve/AngleCop Plates

Butt Weld Clamps & Backers Kit

Great threads! Fascinating work! Resourceful and skilled Alfisti... good stuff.

Chuck
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2009, 07:07 PM
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The last couple of days in the Cowpoke Racing garage have been more fruitful. After a lot of trial and error and using some different techniques I am happy to report that I've actually gotten to a point where I can get the metal from the new tail section to tack to the rest of the car. The welds aren't pretty and I have lots of grinding to do, but I did get the tail section welded on. I still have lots more tacks to make to "connect the dots" but it's fairly well lined up and it's not coming off again. Due to the nature of the remanfactured panel, I could not get it to line up at all the critical points. I had to choose which seam I wanted lined up, and so I chose the top crease on the left rear fender. With this body line properly aligned, other areas don't line up, but I figure they're easier to modify and less likely to be noticed if they're not perfect. You can see the first area that will need to be worked (where the trunk lid shuts) in the picture below:


I've also started cutting out the rusted out gas tank mounting flange and fitting the section that Kevin sent me from his donor car (thanks Kevin!). I should have my soda/sand blaster in the next couple of days and I'm anxious to use it to prep some more of the trunk for more welding and eventually primer.

I had a friend who has restored several concours quality cars come over to the shop and take a look at my progress. I was more heartened by what he didn't say than what he did. He didn't say "dude, you're in way over your head and this is never going to look good, wtf are you thinking?", so that's good.

Here's a picture of me and my project:


And another of the left rear corner:


Thanks to all who've offered advice, to Rossano for setting an example and helping me to understand that this is all possible given patience, the right tools, and more patience.

I'll be back later this week with more updates after I've gotten the blaster and put it to some use.

ciao!
-tj in los gatos
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2009, 12:40 AM
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Are you sure you've got a good flow of shielding gas? Without it, the heat generated will cause the steel to literally burn. The gap is still too wide - I wouldn't want to attempt to weld across that. Still, you're making progress which is great.

Richard
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2009, 02:24 AM
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You can weld that gap up with a flowing circular motion but you are making it harder for yourself and I too find it easier to weld smaller gaps-I`ve found those clamps leave too wider gap too for my liking.
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2009, 11:33 AM
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Sadly I have no choice but to proceed with the gap as it is. There's no way to make it smaller, short of first making it much wider, and then welding in a new piece to fill the wider gap. That does not sound like a recipe for success. I tried my best to make the gap as small as possible when I cut the old metal out. I went slowly, trimming and fitting, trimming and fitting, over and over again. One minute there was still no gap, and the next I had a bigger gap than I thought proper. You have to have some amount of gap, but what I have is probably twice as big as it should be. Having said that, we're still talking about a very small difference. Maybe a few mm at the most.

ciao!
-tj in Los Gatos
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2009, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanRedSpider View Post
I've effectively rebuilt my GT since I bought it including an epic repair after a major off at Castle Combe race circuit GTA Replica Project so have learned the hard way

Good luck

Richard
Good repair, but I bet most of the internal panels would have been saved if you had put your car on a chassis/panel pull machine (and yes I am aware that your chassis did not need straightening) ... would have made your repair a lot simplier. They are simply amazing machines when used by a skilled operator.

Returning to the car that this thread is about, I'm amazed at how bad that rear panel is regarding lining up with the body lines as alfa_corsa has already pointed out. Pity but not unsolvable, all just takes time.
Pete
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  #99 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2009, 07:14 PM
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Not such a blast. I decided that rather than farming out the blasting of our Giulia I'd do it myself. It seemed to be much more economical and much less of a hassle. The closest blaster is a few hours away and it would require at least 2 trips up and back to get the car done, not to mention the harrowing ordeal of strapping a bodyshell to a dolly on to a trailer.........yuck.

After some research I ordered a relatively inexpensive dual-media blaster from Eastwood. I'm in a position where I need to clean up some metal in the nose and in the trunk section before I continue to repair some of the metal in those areas. I took a break from welding and finally got the blaster out and gave it a try last weekend. My compressor is an Ingersol Rand rated at 12.3 CFM@ 125PSI and it has a 40 gallon tank. The blaster is only supposed to require about 8CFM@80PSI, so I figured I'd have enough muscle for the job.

I started with aluminum oxide in the tank as I knew I'd be working on some areas with some sound deadener, some heavy glue, and some rust.

Now I know why people pay others to blast their cars for them. While it's rather satisfying, it's kind of a hassle, and it makes a helluva mess (I expected that part). Unfortunately I was not able to make much progress as I'd only get a short burst of usable blasting before the pressure would drop and I'd have to wait 30 seconds or more for the pressure in the blaster tank to build back up. It was extremely frustrating, and my compressor was running non-stop. After an hour or more of blasting intermittently like this I had only gotten a few small areas blasted, although the results were pretty good.

After thinking about it and discussing it with some friends I came to the conclusion that the reason my compressor couldn't keep the tank pressurized was the very long run I had in between it and the blaster. Just like a long extension cord, the volume of air I am able to move through my plumbed air lines to the tank is insufficient to refill the blaster.

With this in mind I set about to rectify the situation. I went to a local hose/fitting store and purchased 8 feet of 1/2 inch hose, along with several 1/2 inch high flow fittings. I wanted the run of hose to be as short as possible but I need at least enough to be able to get the blaster out of the garage and have some room to move it around. I will connect this 1/2 inch hose directly to the compressor tank and then in to the soda blaster. The only thing in between will be the regulator. I'm hoping that will be sufficient to help me to be able to blast for more than a few seconds before having to take a break.

Chela got in on the blasting action too. Here's some pictures of the process and the results:









I'll report back after I've had a chance to use the blaster with the revised plumbing.

Ciao!

-tj in Los Gatos
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1995 Ducati 916
1970 Norton Commando Fastback
1972 BMW 3.0 CSL
1985 BMW M635CSI
"when I grow up I wanna be like Rossano"
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