floor-mount pedal maintenance?

[roller]

i've got the floor & dash cleared on my '69 gtv,
and i now have the best chance of accessing the floor-mounted pedals.
is there any maintenance i should perform on the pedal mechanism while i have a chance?
i'm guessing there's no chance of getting exhaust fumes from the pedal box, right?
any wisdom welcome,

john

[Alex]

John,

As far as I am aware, the only people to stock the large rubber diaphragm through which passes the brake and clutch pedals, is EB Spares in the UK. They had some new ones made a few years ago, but not many know about them because they don't even have a printed catalogue! I bought one a couple of years ago as a spare - from memory, approx. $60 springs to mind, but I might be wrong!

While you have the pedals out, I would recommend inspecting the pivots and replacing the bronze bushes if there is too much slack. This type of oil-lite bush is common to all kinds of applications, but unless you find one with the correct i.d., you may have to ream them to fit the pedal pivots. Reassemble using a heavy graphite grease. Good luck!!

Alex.

[Alex]

Although I cannot imagine there being any great difference, I should imagine that EB Spares' diaphragm has been made specifically for RHD cars. Their website is http://www.ebspares.co.uk/giulia_gt.htm so get in touch with them just in case their reproduction is not correct for your car. Kevin at EB is pretty good at responding quickly to queries.

Alex.

[ossodiseppia]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alex Although I cannot imagine there being any great difference......................

[roller]

great feedback, thanks.
the pedals work just great right now -- is there anything i should do while i have access? do you think i should disassemble the mechanism & replace parts, or would some grease thrown in there work?

[Alex]

Osso,

Thanks for the info, I stand corrected!

In any case, I think it would be worthwhile to ensure that there is a minimum of slack anywhere in the pedal unit, most specifically:

105.48.44.020.01 - pivot

105.48.44.367.01 - clevis pin

A little basic machining, i.e. enlarging pedal pivot bores and making a new pivot to fit, ditto the pedal rods yolks and pins, should minimise any excess free play. I did all this a couple of years ago and it transformed pedal feel.

[GTD]

roller
Alex is correct in recommending dismantling, cleaning and inspecting. Carefully inspect the clutch shaft (105.48.44.020.01) for cracks at the weld or the shaft where notched for the tapered pin. Although not necessary, I've seen grease fittings installed in the alloy cover to allow future greasing without disassembly.

The most common flaw in this mechanism is the corrosion of the steel cover plate and the bottom edge of the alloy cover due to moisture in the floor covering.

Cleanliness is godliness-clean it, inspect it, lubricate it and forget about it!

[beatle_bayly]

My pedal centre support was badly corroded from the accumulation of dirt in the cavity. After a blast and paint iit turned out quite well. The internals were fine and still held grease but I fitted a grease nipple anyway.

This is from my '67 Australian delivered RHD Duetto.

Boot is from EB Spares but no matter how I warmed the thing or covered it in grease, I still tore it on installation. Next time I'll cut the pedal faces off and re-weld when I'm done.

[kiwi-kid]

Hi Beatle,

I also have had problems with the rubber boot. I got a number of negative replies when I suggested cutting off the pedals, slipping on the boot, and re-welding.

I'd like to know how you go.

Cheers

Ian
SI 1750 GTV

[beatle_bayly]

So Ian,

What did you end up doing ? I simply glued the tears and so far it's holding.

I think the best way to cut the pedal is to grind the centre of each pad down until you can break it off the arm. This leaves the pad useable as a template and you don't lose length in the arm from the cut.

Having the weld at the top of the pedal arm means it's under the least amount load/leverage and so reduces any risk of failure. Furthermore, you effectively push the pedal face onto the arm and so do not rely entirely on the weld to hold it all together.

If you can weld correctly I'd certainly trust the re-welded pedals.

[Rich]

Hi,

Some time ago I read this thread and remembered how you guys tore the rubber boot. Well it is time for me to put my boot on and I really didn’t want to tear it.
Since I had the pedals apart my wife (the next alfa girl) decided that i should do it the opposite of how you guys did it.
The first thing that I did was to remove all the sharp edging from both pedals and then painted them. I also fitted a grease nipple to my pedals, thanks to Beatle for the idea.
1. I placed the rubber boot in hot tap water for 2 minutes and replaced the hot water again and left it a further 2 minutes to make sure the rubber was soft.
2. I placed a plastic bag over the bottom of pedal and covered the bag with olive oil.
3. I removed the boot from the hot water and quickly pushed the bottom of the pedal through the top of the boot, no tears .

Rich

[GTD]

Olio de Oliva!
Of course - It's an ALFA!