Radiator first fill from dry - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

 1Likes
  • 1 Post By PSk
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
r-mm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,620
Radiator first fill from dry

Getting ready to fill the radiator from completely dry. The 2000 GTV spec book says "about 2.5 gallons" of "Alfa" coolant is needed. Can someone help me here - will standard 50/50 do the trick? I'm guessing the radiator alone won't swallow 2.5gallons and the waterpump needs to run in order to bring some of that into the circuit? Do I fill the radiator as much as I can and then keep an eye on it after first start?

'73 GTV bare metal project
E30 Daily - '65 912 project in waiting
r-mm is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016, 05:56 PM
Senior Member
Gold Subscriber
 
Nakagtv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Mount Pleasant (Charleston), SC
Posts: 435
Garage
This is how I did on mine:

-Unscrew M6 bolt on top of the water pump
-Unscrew brass bolt on top of the manifold, by the thermostat
-Start filling the radiator until coolant starts to flow out of the hole on top of the water pump. Put back the screw and fill the radiator to the top
-With small funnel or a squeeze bottle keep filling manifold
-Squeeze on hoses to move any trapped air, keep topping off radiator, manifold and expansion tank
-Put the brass bolt back on manifold

If your head gasket is new and head bolts need to be torqued down after the first run: DO NOT tighten the radiator cap all the way, you don't want pressure in the system yet. RJ suggested using only distilled water for the engine break-in

Hope this helps

Zaza

Refreshing 1970 Euro-spec GTV 1750
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Nakagtv is offline  
post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016, 06:11 PM
Registered User
 
65Sprint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Fountain Inn, SC
Posts: 807
I wouldn't fill the cooling system with the antifreeze/distilled water solution (50/50) until you have run the engine and confirmed you are leak free. Regardless, fill the radiator, run the engine, and loosen the bleed screws to purge any air. Top up the radiator as required. Suspect you will get 8-9 quarts (at least) in the system prior to start up.

Rich Hanning
'65 Sprint GT, '78 Spider, '88 Quad
65Sprint is offline  
 
post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
r-mm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,620
I have just under two gallons in there using Nakas method. Need more or just more distilled water. You hesitate on the 50/50 for what reason.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

'73 GTV bare metal project
E30 Daily - '65 912 project in waiting
r-mm is offline  
post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016, 06:22 PM
Senior Member
Gold Subscriber
 
Nakagtv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Mount Pleasant (Charleston), SC
Posts: 435
Garage
As I understood antifreeze is "slicker" than water and seeps in between the head and gasket easier

Zaza

Refreshing 1970 Euro-spec GTV 1750
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Nakagtv is offline  
post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-29-2016, 11:49 PM
PSk
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tauranga New Zealand
Posts: 8,834
Send a message via AIM to PSk Send a message via Yahoo to PSk
Importantly when you first run the engine up to temperature have your heater turned to full hot AND the radiator cap off. Do not put the radiator cap on until the engine has burped and the thermostat has opened.

Pete
Norseman50 likes this.

'71 1750 Series 2 GTV:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
156 Series 1 v6 ... and remember it's all just opinions
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
PSk is offline  
post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-30-2016, 06:31 AM
Senior Member
Gold Subscriber
 
Nakagtv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Mount Pleasant (Charleston), SC
Posts: 435
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by PSk View Post
Importantly when you first run the engine up to temperature have your heater turned to full hot AND the radiator cap off. Do not put the radiator cap on until the engine has burped and the thermostat has opened.

Pete

Knew I was forgetting something. The heater!!!

BTW had two brand new plastic heater valves leak after few runs (from 2 different suppliers). Ended up opening them and adding some Permatex Ultra Black on the edges around the seal. It's been 2 years and still no leaks.

Zaza

Refreshing 1970 Euro-spec GTV 1750
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Nakagtv is offline  
post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-04-2016, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
r-mm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,620
I found this posted by RJ - any idea what the problem with Bar's Leak is?

"As well break in period should be done with water only, (no antifreeze) and I use one tube of powder type leak sealant, not Bars Leak."

'73 GTV bare metal project
E30 Daily - '65 912 project in waiting
r-mm is offline  
post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 07:43 AM
Registered User
 
GTA R's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Yorkshire, UK.
Posts: 464
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by r-mm View Post
I found this posted by RJ - any idea what the problem with Bar's Leak is?

"As well break in period should be done with water only, (no antifreeze) and I use one tube of powder type leak sealant, not Bars Leak."
Bar's Leak is a radiator sealant, old, old school. I remember when I worked at International Harvester in Doncaster in the 70's, they used to put a Bar's Leak pellet in every new radiator, just in case.
I never had any success with it. They do fluid types now, as well as the pellet.

New in the box, it looked like something the dog has done, and quickly got that nickname at work.

I prefer to use nothing until there's any sign of a leak, then I use Radweld (fluid solution. Don't like any form of bodge really, but Radweld is good to get you home.)

Not seen Bar's leak in the UK for years, but still available for you boys at Walmart :-

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bar-s-Lea...-Leak/16888773

Steve

GTA R
Giulia Ti Super Rep yet to finish. BMW 2000 NK to Ti spec
GTA R is offline  
post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 08:18 AM
Senior Member
Platinum Subscriber
 
alfaparticle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 9,742
I have seen bottles of Bar's leak in several race car trailers but I have never used the stuff.

Ed Prytherch
79 Spider
85 GTV6 3L
76 Suzuki GT500

A little government and a little luck are necessary in life, but only a fool trusts either of them. - P.J. O'Rourke
alfaparticle is offline  
post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
r-mm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,620
I gathered, maybe incorrectly, that RJs suggestions of plain water and powder sealant are geared to preventing headgasket leaks on first startup more than cooling system leaks, yes?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

'73 GTV bare metal project
E30 Daily - '65 912 project in waiting
r-mm is offline  
post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-06-2016, 05:24 PM
Registered User
 
65Sprint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Fountain Inn, SC
Posts: 807
Of course the best way to find out is ask RJ. Short of that, I wouldn't use anything except water (distilled) for start up as suggested above. As long as you have an "approved fluid" in the cooling system, what is, to the nth degree, is not critical. If you "feel better" starting out with a 50/50 mix then do that. It just makes more of a mess than water if you do happen to have a leak.

Rich Hanning
'65 Sprint GT, '78 Spider, '88 Quad
65Sprint is offline  
post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-29-2016, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
r-mm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,620
Guys I'm going to be running her up to operating temp this weekend. With a first-time idling engine and a lot to look out for, what is the clearest cue that it is 'safe' to put the radiator cap on?

'73 GTV bare metal project
E30 Daily - '65 912 project in waiting
r-mm is offline  
post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 02:17 AM
PSk
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tauranga New Zealand
Posts: 8,834
Send a message via AIM to PSk Send a message via Yahoo to PSk
Quote:
Originally Posted by r-mm View Post
Guys I'm going to be running her up to operating temp this weekend. With a first-time idling engine and a lot to look out for, what is the clearest cue that it is 'safe' to put the radiator cap on?
First of all I would not let a rebuilt engine idle, I'd raise the revs up to 2000 rpm and keep it there. Check oil pressure, for leaks, turn heater on to full hot, etc.

It is safe to put the radiator cap on once the thermostat has opened (the top radiator hose will get hot) and she has burped.

Good luck
Pete

'71 1750 Series 2 GTV:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
156 Series 1 v6 ... and remember it's all just opinions
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
PSk is offline  
post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-30-2016, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
r-mm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,620
Thx. By idle I meant as you say, 2k


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

'73 GTV bare metal project
E30 Daily - '65 912 project in waiting
r-mm is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

 
Replace with
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome