Bare Metal Rebuild Phase III: Reassembly - Page 5 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #61 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 07:02 AM Thread Starter
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Pete I did get confirmation on this from this thread: headliner replacement questions

I just received a few hundred little metal springclips and will start dry-fitting the rest of the headliner today.

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post #62 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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Some headliner & trim supplies have arrived. I got lucky, buying black vinyl sight unseen which turned out to be a pretty good match for the vinyl I used to redo the seats.

I also received a variety of foams,
the thinner of which is 1/4in 'landau' foam : 1/4" Thick Volara Sculpting Foam
the thicker of which is 1/2in fabric backed foam
1/2" Thick "TS Backed" Pleating - Sew Foam

Unsure which I'll use where yet. I think it will mostly come down to test-fitting and seeing where I need the boyancy vs edge softness. I have some more 'typical' upholstery foam left over stuffing the rear seats: Foam Medium Firm HR 3319 - Best Seller, Closed Cell, Foam, Drain Dry Foam, Foam Comfort Soft HR 2024 from Rochford Supply - Your Online Textile and Upholstery Superstore!
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post #63 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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I've been working on the headliner installation, slowly. Just assembling supplies and getting one's head into this job is a big task, for me at least.

To get started I've been templating and cutting foam for the perimeter of the headliner. I'll be using a DAP high temp contact cement to glue the foam to the body. Much like working with plastic laminate, I figure it'll be more forgiving to lay the foam down a bit oversized then trim in situ. So I templated all the way to the openings on the body, knowing I'll then come back and trim ~1/2" off for the seals.

There are a lot of tricky transitions to work out, but I'm starting to get my head into this one.
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post #64 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-08-2016, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Now that I have all my foam cut I'm starting to think about how to locate the recessed panel. Best I could come up with was to hang the headliner by its bow, install the recessed hoop (not attached to the headliner obviously) then measure the distance from the bow to the hoop. I did that and transcribed the measurements to the headliner, as shown.

Any words of wisdom before I lay blade to headliner??
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post #65 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-08-2016, 09:07 AM
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r-mm,

Are you sure you have the right headliner? The recessed bit should already be made. Just had a look at my old and stuffed headliner and yep the recessed bit is already sewn in.

There is the GTA style headliner that does not have the recessed bit ...
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post #66 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-08-2016, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Pete

When you say old headliner do you mean the one it left the factory with?

My impression from reading other's threads is that one must locate and cut the recessed ring. I shot an email off to alfaholics to ask how they supply theirs. Honestly can't recall who I bought mine from. For sure I didn't buy the GTA style - and my understanding was that people simply add bows to a "standard" headliner to achieve the GTA look (which, I have to say, is tempting for its simplicity).

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post #67 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-08-2016, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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My Odyssey PC680 and hold down arrived today. Bought from West Coast batteries and has a 2016 production date. Good experience, good price. I'm trying to decide exactly where to mount it and what type of terminals to use. My main concern is accidentally bridging the b+ to the body while dis/connecting it to the battery so I think using an SAE terminal, maybe with a shutoff, will give me a bit more clearance than bolting directly to the battery.

Forgive the ruminations on basics but I'm also trying to decide how to:

1. Fasten the hold down to the body
Don't want to weld a nut to the painted body so thinking sheet metal screws are the way to go. Going to give it a shot tomorrow and see how sturdy they feel.

2. Ground to the body.
Is this as simple as removing paint, adding a brass stud and some big washers? How did Alfa handle this with the A/C cars?
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post #68 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-08-2016, 07:36 PM
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The repro headliners do not seem to have the recessed portion sewn in...perhaps for cost savings. As for locating the recessed portion, you've pretty much outlined the same approach I took. Be sure to double check that measurement though....if you're too short or too long on it....the hoop may not be positioned in the ideal dead vertical position...and may tilt too far forward or background. I believe I also checked the headliner in position before the final cut was made.

Rossano

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post #69 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-09-2016, 03:33 PM
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r-mm- On my originally AC equipped '74 GTV I placed the same battery vertically in the same place as you did with a similar self-fabricated hold down bracket. I placed a length of aluminum channel on the underside of the shelf spanning the two mounting holes of the bracket. This channel had two nuts epoxied in the "u" of the channel to recieve the mounting bolts which have large knurled knobs so that everything can be removed/disconnected/dismantled quickly by hand in the event of an emergency and for ease of servicing. This was based on a previous bad experience which burned up some wiring, toasted a starter, created a Bad Alfa Day. I even used large brass wing nuts on the terminals themselves and eye lugs on the cable ends to avoid the need for any tools. They are easily tightened adequately by hand, no problems coming loose ever.
The body grounding end of the negative cable is simlpy attached as it was when converted to AC use, (at port of entry ?, dealership ?), i.e.- captured at the far shock tower bolts w/ a longish length of cable to facilitate sliding everything rearward for service, etc. Has worked for me FWIW.
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post #70 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1750GT View Post
The repro headliners do not seem to have the recessed portion sewn in...perhaps for cost savings. As for locating the recessed portion, you've pretty much outlined the same approach I took. Be sure to double check that measurement though....if you're too short or too long on it....the hoop may not be positioned in the ideal dead vertical position...and may tilt too far forward or background. I believe I also checked the headliner in position before the final cut was made.
If the recessed bit is not already sewn in, how can you add it? You would need to purchase more headliner material as it is not just a line of stiches but the material goes up and around the metal frame, and is different material.

I'm confused. How did you resolve this Rossano?

r-mm, I'd definitely check that you are not able to purchase the correct headliner first. It would save you weeks of time .
Pete

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post #71 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
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If the recessed bit is not already sewn in, how can you add it? You would need to purchase more headliner material as it is not just a line of stiches but the material goes up and around the metal frame, and is different material.

I'm confused. How did you resolve this Rossano?

r-mm, I'd definitely check that you are not able to purchase the correct headliner first. It would save you weeks of time .
Pete
Exactly....the suppliers include the material to cover the recessed portion. So what I ended up doing (as have others) was gluing 1/4 " landau foam first to the roof directly....and then gluing this loose headliner to the landau foam. The end result is that the recessed portion no longer flops or tents in position....which although at first I was not keen on (not quite like the original)....i actually quite prefer now.

And you are very right Pete....doing this extra work does add an extra element of nuisance and uncertainty when doing it for the first time and without specific detailed instructions on how to actually do this.

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post #72 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1750GT View Post
Exactly....the suppliers include the material to cover the recessed portion. So what I ended up doing (as have others) was gluing 1/4 " landau foam first to the roof directly....and then gluing this loose headliner to the landau foam. The end result is that the recessed portion no longer flops or tents in position....which although at first I was not keen on (not quite like the original)....i actually quite prefer now
If I am understanding you correctly you are saying that the two pieces of the headliner are not actually sewn together like original?, ie. the recessed bit is just glued to the roof/foam and the non-recessed bit is somehow connected to the frame and does not get sewn to the recessed bit???

Weird. I think I'll keep my old headliner to use as a template and just get a trimmer to make me a headliner.

The suppliers IMO have dropped the ball here.
Pete

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post #73 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 03:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PSk View Post
If I am understanding you correctly you are saying that the two pieces of the headliner are not actually sewn together like original?, ie. the recessed bit is just glued to the roof/foam and the non-recessed bit is somehow connected to the frame and does not get sewn to the recessed bit???

Weird. I think I'll keep my old headliner to use as a template and just get a trimmer to make me a headliner.

The suppliers IMO have dropped the ball here.
Pete
Pete - exactly right. Rossano details the process nicely here and in his thread. One thing I'd like to confirm - the recessed portion that Rossano glued to the foam is not supposed to be 'snakebite' patterned, correct? Mine was supplied with unperforated vinyl for the recessed pattern which I believe to be original per disassembly pic.
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post #74 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 03:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Capp

I like you tool free ideas - they address my concerns exactly. Can you clarify which shock tower bolt Alfa used to ground the trunk mounted battery? Pic would be good if you have one.

Quote:
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r-mm- On my originally AC equipped '74 GTV I placed the same battery vertically in the same place as you did with a similar self-fabricated hold down bracket. I placed a length of aluminum channel on the underside of the shelf spanning the two mounting holes of the bracket. This channel had two nuts epoxied in the "u" of the channel to recieve the mounting bolts which have large knurled knobs so that everything can be removed/disconnected/dismantled quickly by hand in the event of an emergency and for ease of servicing. This was based on a previous bad experience which burned up some wiring, toasted a starter, created a Bad Alfa Day. I even used large brass wing nuts on the terminals themselves and eye lugs on the cable ends to avoid the need for any tools. They are easily tightened adequately by hand, no problems coming loose ever.
The body grounding end of the negative cable is simlpy attached as it was when converted to AC use, (at port of entry ?, dealership ?), i.e.- captured at the far shock tower bolts w/ a longish length of cable to facilitate sliding everything rearward for service, etc. Has worked for me FWIW.

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post #75 of 257 (permalink) Old 03-11-2016, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
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One thing I'd like to confirm - the recessed portion that Rossano glued to the foam is not supposed to be 'snakebite' patterned, correct? Mine was supplied with unperforated vinyl for the recessed pattern which I believe to be original per disassembly pic.
Correct.
Pete

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