Bare Metal Rebuild Phase III: Reassembly - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #16 of 208 (permalink) Old 12-01-2015, 05:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the sequence advice and reminders Berlinista.

I am confident the 3M + 1/4in foil faced foam will stay under the 1/2"+ that the original bitumen & jute was. Here's a pic from when it came out of the car (good riddance).

I think I'm going to get the bitumen down - partially to protect the floors so I don't scratch them during reassembly - poke thru all the bolt holts, then wait on the foil faced foam. I'll likely cover the bit with cardboard and do the headliner etc.
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post #17 of 208 (permalink) Old 12-07-2015, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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Received the 3M sound deadening. Looks nice. Surprisingly made in France. Cuts easily and adheres very well. Even in my somewhat chilly garage, it doesn't really need a heat gun to conform to the compound curves of the body. A little heat helps but too much can craze the plastic top layer (which 3M says to remove if painting over).

I was able to get most of the floors done in about 3 hours.

One thing to note - the pads are perforated down the centerline so it really makes sense to use them @ half their nominal size.
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post #18 of 208 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 05:48 AM
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Received the 3M sound deadening. Looks nice. Surprisingly made in France. Cuts easily and adheres very well. Even in my somewhat chilly garage, it doesn't really need a heat gun to conform to the compound curves of the body. A little heat helps but too much can craze the plastic top layer (which 3M says to remove if painting over).

I was able to get most of the floors done in about 3 hours.

One thing to note - the pads are perforated down the centerline so it really makes sense to use them @ half their nominal size.
Nice. Mine arrived as well so I am following right behind. Looks just like the original stuff.

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post #19 of 208 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 05:50 AM Thread Starter
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Yup. Only difference is that the sheets are a bit smaller than the factory stuff so there are more joints. From what I've read, incomplete coverage is not at all a problem for sound deadening - I'm more concerned with standing water. I realize this layer is not acting like a roof but I think I'll tape over the seams to give myself some reassurance that any water that finds its way down doesn't end up in a small crack where it can't dry. Not sure what type of tape to use yet - might use the butyl I bought for the gas tank seal.

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post #20 of 208 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 07:30 AM
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I used this:

1.89 in. x 50 yd. 322 Multi-Purpose HVAC Foil Tape-1207792 - The Home Depot

STILL learning.

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post #21 of 208 (permalink) Old 12-08-2015, 10:23 AM
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Yup. Only difference is that the sheets are a bit smaller than the factory stuff so there are more joints. From what I've read, incomplete coverage is not at all a problem for sound deadening - I'm more concerned with standing water. I realize this layer is not acting like a roof but I think I'll tape over the seams to give myself some reassurance that any water that finds its way down doesn't end up in a small crack where it can't dry. Not sure what type of tape to use yet - might use the butyl I bought for the gas tank seal.
Are you planning on using this as a storm chaser? What are the chances this car will see any rain, ever?

My suggestion is to slit any areas that might have bridged and lay another piece over the slit. As you pointed out earlier, this is a vast improvement of the water entrapping jute.

BTW, the car looks stunning - congratulations!

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post #22 of 208 (permalink) Old 12-11-2015, 10:19 AM Thread Starter
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Point taken Rich!

For the record: a 10 pack of the 3M product is just about perfect to do the cabin the way the factory did it - ie nothing on the rear seats and nothing behind the map pockets. If you want to go bonkers or will be doing the trunk I'd suggest ordering more.

Does anyone have a picture of what the factory fuel tank seal looks like installed?

Curious if it overhangs the flange or is tight to it? Its not a C shape is it?

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post #23 of 208 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Happy New Year all!

In between setting up my new garage and celebrating the holidays I've done a few GTV tasks.

The interior is now mostly covered in sound deadening and the heater is back in. I refurbished the heater, cleaning up the considerable gunk inside it, bench testing the motor and dry lubricating the pivot points. I have a new molded hose (left side) on order and will simply buy metric hose for the right side which doesn't seem to have any tricky bends.

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While working on the now quite tidy interior the stalk switch really stood out. Why I left it installed for five years to collect dust is not entirely clear, but luckily pulling it and cleaning it up was not too hard. I did have to consult the owners manual to learn its ways (two position rotation huh) but found the correct continuity in all positions. I replaced the terminals on the harness end but left them as-found on the stalk end as they were well protected by heatshrink and visibly not a standard size.

I'm usually opposed (on grounds of authenticity?) to metallic spray paint, but a few coats did the trick on the stalk switch.

Note to those doing this: the little spring that goes around the steering column is clocked so to speak and can be installed incorrectly so the switch cancels in the wrong direction.

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post #24 of 208 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 09:15 PM
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Looking good. I just rewired my stalk to remove some prior hacking in the way of crimp connectors. It looked like at some point in the past someone had cut it out rather than unplug it!? I soldered everything and used heat shrink.
How the signal works I learned from a fellow BB member (Antonio 105) who let me take his 2000 for a spin. I had no idea you could twist it! I expect there will be more learning ahead.
I may follow your lead and paint the metal as it is probably likes yours was..pitted.

Inspiring to see another making progress.

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post #25 of 208 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 09:24 PM
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Does anyone have a picture of what the factory fuel tank seal looks like installed?

Curious if it overhangs the flange or is tight to it? Its not a C shape is it?
I'm assuming you're asking about the gasket that fits around the perimeter of the fuel tank where it meets the body. I just pulled the gas tank from my 72; the gasket was gray -- similar to foam weatherstrip that you would install in a residential door frame. It was maybe 1" wide and 1/4" thick. Not "C" shaped; just sits under the tank flange. Not sure if you could see it from underside; if so, maybe just a bit here and there.

There's also caulking inside the trunk and on top of the area where the tank flange meets the inside of the trunk.

Caveat -- I just pulled the gas tank out of my 72. No evidence that it had been removed before, but you never know.

If you need pictures of the gasket and/or measurements, let me know. I think I saved some of it for reference.

Scott

72 GT Junior, Amaranth Red/tan; 66 Fairlane GT convt, 428, 4 sp; 68 GTO Convt, owner built 455 and TH400; 71 Javelin road race project, owner built 401, T10
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post #26 of 208 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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It was maybe 1" wide and 1/4" thick. Not "C" shaped; just sits under the tank flange. Not sure if you could see it from underside; if so, maybe just a bit here and there.

There's also caulking inside the trunk and on top of the area where the tank flange meets the inside of the trunk.

Scott
I'm with you up to the point you're talking about the caulking inside the trunk. Starting with the flange on the body there is an approx 1" wide 1/4" thick gray seal. The flange on the gas tank sits on this seal. Where is the caulking?

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post #27 of 208 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 01:39 AM
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I'm with you up to the point you're talking about the caulking inside the trunk. Starting with the flange on the body there is an approx 1" wide 1/4" thick gray seal. The flange on the gas tank sits on this seal. Where is the caulking?
The caulking is on the inside of the trunk. Looks like it was applied to the area on the edge of the gas tank flange to seal the area between the gas tank flange and the body.

FYI - when I removed my tank, I first had to take a screwdriver and a few small scrapers to remove as much of the caulking as I could. Even after I did that, I wasn't able to break the seal between the tank/caulk/gasket/trunk by pushing up from underneath, and I'm not a small guy. Then I used my floor jack -- put a 1x6 under the tank and jacked up until it popped free. Without caulk, I would have been able to pop it out no problem.

Edit - if you want, I can try to take pictures of the remnants of the calking on the car or tank. I scraped most of it off, but should be some residue. Let me know.

Scott

72 GT Junior, Amaranth Red/tan; 66 Fairlane GT convt, 428, 4 sp; 68 GTO Convt, owner built 455 and TH400; 71 Javelin road race project, owner built 401, T10
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post #28 of 208 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Scott - yes a picture would be great, it'd be interesting to see if anyone else has seen that caulk. It would be surprising to me if it were original, but who knows.

After my success with the column stalk I tried to make the gauges look a bit better. Opening them up was quite easy and let me do some dusting. I found a number of threads on improving the lighting of earlier style gauges (which I look at longingly) but not much on the little modules we have on the back of the 2000 Jaeger gauge cluster. Does anyone know what these are called and if warm LED replacements are out there?

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post #29 of 208 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 09:34 AM
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Hello RMM did you install the headliner yet if yes how did it turn out ,Im in the process of installing mine I just finished insulating the roof with sound deadener foam etc. great work by the way

Ben Serpico. 74 gtv 75 alfetta 76 gtv
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post #30 of 208 (permalink) Old 01-03-2016, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Cuorealfa - I haven't gotten to the headliner yet. Do you have a thread on yours? If you need assembly advice you can look to my embarrassingly old thread where I go step by step taking mine apart.
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