Bare Metal Rebuild Phase III: Reassembly - Page 11 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #151 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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I've searched around the AlfaBB and there aren't too many threads on carpet installation I can find. Maybe this is because its obvious to most how its done. The two thoughts that come to mind are using the excellent 3M Super Yellow Trim Adhesive (an aerosol contact cement) that I used to bond the radiant heat barrier to the bitumen sound deadening, or to use a straight up carpet glue from the hardware store. The alternative would be to try and treat the carpet as a removable finish and hold in place with screws only.

'73 GTV bare metal project
'87 Carrera 3.2 Daily - '65 912 project in waiting
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post #152 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 11:55 PM
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I don't think carpet, at least the pieces under the seats, should be glued down. If it ever gets wet it is much better to be able to remove and dry/clean.

Pete

'71 1750 Series 2 GTV:
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post #153 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
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Pete - Agreed. I was asking mostly about the pieces that come flat and need to adapt to the body like the outer sill pieces and tunnel piece.

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post #154 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Wanted to tell you all what I'm working on to fasten the quarter window top seals. Rossano posted a characteristically fastidious, patient and genius solution on another thread. Nakagtv posted a link to a McMaster-Carr flush both sides rivet. I ordered some in the appropriate grip range and gave them a test ride (on my new and extremely fun to use air powered rivet gun).

What I see is promising. I think if I can get a piece of tubing in the right diameter to make up the different in depth between how far the nose of the gun can reach and the tip of the mandrel it should be a very factory solution. I'll also use some glue like the factory did.

Pics are of the old seal, untouched and the tests (using the old seal)

Plugs for good products -

Rivets:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#95372a300/=16utq03

Rivet Gun:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3M rubber glue:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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'73 GTV bare metal project
'87 Carrera 3.2 Daily - '65 912 project in waiting
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post #155 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Also thought I'd record my findings on the much maligned cable style window regulators. After opening my old ones up I quickly retreated and bought two new ones from Alfa Service. These are handed, so be sure you use the right one on the right side.

The primary trouble with installing them is not the routing, or even access for hands, its the fact that the wires don't want to wind nicely on the spools and have lumpy parts to them from how they were shipped. There are a few recommendations on the BB to clamp the unit in a vice and straighten things out but I found bolting it to the door and spooling it over 3 of the 4 pulleys to be easier. I did that, attached the door handle (NB: check that your old door handles don't have their splines all gnarled. Mine were. Bought new). and ran the thing back and forth until I was happy, adding PTFE dry lube as I did. When it was reasonably tidy I unbolted it entirely and pushed it 'into' the door so that the splines on the winder attachment were almost inside the door. This is the only way I found its possible to hook the wire over the 4th pulley. I always found it easiest to use the lowest, rearmost pulley as the last one. Then with it seated on all pulleys, I reinserted its 3 studs and bolted it up. The washers I used aren't quite large enough - I need to replace them. I have the factory hardware on the other side - there is a conincal lock washer, m5 nut and very large washer. Then, I loosened the bolts and rotated the whole unit to put tension on the cable.

I've yet to attache the glass and can't quite figure out... can you get the glass with its alum blocks into the door or do the blocks go on the SS cables, then the glass into the blocks?

My driver's side door diagram at a pic attached.
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'73 GTV bare metal project
'87 Carrera 3.2 Daily - '65 912 project in waiting

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post #156 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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I think my rivet technique worked. I made a mandrel extension with in aluminum spacer (nylon was not strong enough). It's tricky getting the nose of the gun close enough while still letting the jaws get enough 'bite'.

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post #157 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Bare Metal Rebuild Phase III: Reassembly

Where do you guys strip caulk under the stainless steel sills? The area I'm in marking with my finger seems to be the most vulnerable to having the paint abraded and corrosion start. I was going to protect this outside corner only.

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'73 GTV bare metal project
'87 Carrera 3.2 Daily - '65 912 project in waiting
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post #158 of 158 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by r-mm View Post
Where do you guys strip caulk under the stainless steel sills? The area I'm in marking with my finger seems to be the most vulnerable to having the paint abraded and corrosion start. I was going to protect this outside corner only.

Attachment 1226282
I did mine with a product called liquid rubber (used to repair wiring harness) I went across the entire sill

https://proguardcoatings.com/product...liquid-rubber/
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