Bare Metal Rebuild Phase III: Reassembly - Page 11 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #151 of 248 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 11:55 PM
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I don't think carpet, at least the pieces under the seats, should be glued down. If it ever gets wet it is much better to be able to remove and dry/clean.

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post #152 of 248 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
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Pete - Agreed. I was asking mostly about the pieces that come flat and need to adapt to the body like the outer sill pieces and tunnel piece.

'73 GTV bare metal project
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post #153 of 248 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 03:32 PM Thread Starter
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Wanted to tell you all what I'm working on to fasten the quarter window top seals. Rossano posted a characteristically fastidious, patient and genius solution on another thread. Nakagtv posted a link to a McMaster-Carr flush both sides rivet. I ordered some in the appropriate grip range and gave them a test ride (on my new and extremely fun to use air powered rivet gun).

What I see is promising. I think if I can get a piece of tubing in the right diameter to make up the different in depth between how far the nose of the gun can reach and the tip of the mandrel it should be a very factory solution. I'll also use some glue like the factory did.

Pics are of the old seal, untouched and the tests (using the old seal)

Plugs for good products -

Rivets:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#95372a300/=16utq03

Rivet Gun:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3M rubber glue:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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post #154 of 248 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Also thought I'd record my findings on the much maligned cable style window regulators. After opening my old ones up I quickly retreated and bought two new ones from Alfa Service. These are handed, so be sure you use the right one on the right side.

The primary trouble with installing them is not the routing, or even access for hands, its the fact that the wires don't want to wind nicely on the spools and have lumpy parts to them from how they were shipped. There are a few recommendations on the BB to clamp the unit in a vice and straighten things out but I found bolting it to the door and spooling it over 3 of the 4 pulleys to be easier. I did that, attached the door handle (NB: check that your old door handles don't have their splines all gnarled. Mine were. Bought new). and ran the thing back and forth until I was happy, adding PTFE dry lube as I did. When it was reasonably tidy I unbolted it entirely and pushed it 'into' the door so that the splines on the winder attachment were almost inside the door. This is the only way I found its possible to hook the wire over the 4th pulley. I always found it easiest to use the lowest, rearmost pulley as the last one. Then with it seated on all pulleys, I reinserted its 3 studs and bolted it up. The washers I used aren't quite large enough - I need to replace them. I have the factory hardware on the other side - there is a conincal lock washer, m5 nut and very large washer. Then, I loosened the bolts and rotated the whole unit to put tension on the cable.

I've yet to attache the glass and can't quite figure out... can you get the glass with its alum blocks into the door or do the blocks go on the SS cables, then the glass into the blocks?

My driver's side door diagram at a pic attached.
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post #155 of 248 (permalink) Old 03-22-2017, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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I think my rivet technique worked. I made a mandrel extension with in aluminum spacer (nylon was not strong enough). It's tricky getting the nose of the gun close enough while still letting the jaws get enough 'bite'.

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post #156 of 248 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Bare Metal Rebuild Phase III: Reassembly

Where do you guys strip caulk under the stainless steel sills? The area I'm in marking with my finger seems to be the most vulnerable to having the paint abraded and corrosion start. I was going to protect this outside corner only.

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post #157 of 248 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by r-mm View Post
Where do you guys strip caulk under the stainless steel sills? The area I'm in marking with my finger seems to be the most vulnerable to having the paint abraded and corrosion start. I was going to protect this outside corner only.

Attachment 1226282
I did mine with a product called liquid rubber (used to repair wiring harness) I went across the entire sill

https://proguardcoatings.com/product...liquid-rubber/
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post #158 of 248 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 10:04 AM Thread Starter
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Can someone remind me how the handbrake light wiring is routed? I believe its part of the primary front to rear loom that runs under the driver's stainless sill cover. When that loom exits the rear of the stainless sill cover does the handbrake wire make a left, run along the vertical portion of the area by the passanger's ankles and then forward along the tunnel?

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post #159 of 248 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 04:48 PM
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Not sure if the 71 & the 73 are the same. As you can see in the pic mine ran along the tunnel only ( indentation still visible)
Hope this helps.
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post #160 of 248 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that. From looking at the loom on my car it does appear that the grey/white to the handbrake switch runs with the main f/r branch under the ss sill, but Im debating either leaving the switch off entirely or rewiring it as you have it.


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post #161 of 248 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
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I'm struggling to understand why there are two shift lever gaitors. The one installed on the tunnel in this photo is the double gaitor that grabs the transmission itself on the inside as well as the sheet-metal of the car. Is there any harm in omitting the plastic piece in the foreground with the second gaitor?

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post #162 of 248 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 11:42 AM
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Are you saying you don't want to install the second gaitor or just the plastic piece?

I assume, but don't actually know, that the second gaitor is required as Alfa Romeo have gone to lengths and expensive providing it. My guess is for noise isolation. The plastic piece is required to seal that area against the gearbox tunnel.

I'm not always smart enough to out think an engineering company that up to the point of making my car had over 50 years of experience so I tend to put it back as they had it, unless I'm sure they were stupid
Pete

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post #163 of 248 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 12:14 PM
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Noise isolation & keeping road grime and such from the 2nd gator. Interesting, I can't remember if I pulled another rubber gator off after my vinyl boot, I think not?
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post #164 of 248 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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One reason I asked is that the parts suppliers make it sound like there was some year-to-year inconsistency with which models had which pieces, and the parts diagram shows only one. (The interior page does not show another, at least not that I found).

Noise and grime are definitely things I want less of in the cabin.

The plastic piece on my car is cracked at some of the mounts and the thought of putting a few less holes in the car for the screws is always welcome.
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post #165 of 248 (permalink) Old 04-02-2017, 12:30 PM
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I just looked at mine to feel if there was a 2nd gator under the main one, found a tear and stuck my finger in there to see if there was a 2nd gator, just 46 years of grime!
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