Steering box differences / question - Page 2 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gattia86 View Post
I've installed a later Spider non-ujoint Burman box in my '74 GTV, which originally came with a U-joint box.
In my post on the 28th, I also mentioned that I had installed a spider box & column into a GT - a '66 Sprint in my case. So, there IS some possibility of installing the one piece spider boxes/columns into a GT/GTV.

Gprocket's post was excellent - as I noted, I had "heard" that GT's had a longer column than spiders, but Gprocket really provided some hard data. From his numbers, it looks like the difference in column length between spiders and GT's is 7/16" to 1/2". There is that much fore-aft play in the mounting of the aluminum column support beneath the dashboard, so, putting a shorter column into an early GT (as I did) is fairly simple.

With later GT's (eg, GTV's) the presence of the steering lock is a complication. Fortunately for me, the early GT's don't have a column lock (the ignition switch is on the left side of the dash).

Jay Mackro
San Juan Capistrano, CA

'63 Guilia spider
'65 Guilia Sprint GT
'67 Duetto
'91 164L

Last edited by Alfajay; 04-30-2009 at 03:00 PM.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-30-2009, 04:09 PM
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After spending a couple hours (over two days) looking at parts books, microfiche and ingesting a half bottle of aspirin, hopefully this post will help clear up the issue or totally screw it up.
Now, we're talking only USA version 1750 & 2000 115s w/Burman boxes. Years listed are model year, not build year.

Series 1 1750 Berlinas, GTVs & Spiders were all fitted with the same box (105.62.23.002.00), shaft (105.62.23.002.00/05) and outer tube (105.62.23.002.00/22).

Series 2 1750 and 1972 Berlinas, GTVs & Spiders were all fitted with the same box (105.35.23.002.00), shaft (105.35.23.002.00/05) and outer tube (105.35.23.002.00/22).

While the 1973 Spiders retained the same box as 1972, the 73 Berlinas and GTVs got a u-jointed box (105.71.23.002.00).

The Burman box in the Spider was replaced with a ZF unit sometime between 1973 & 1979

So, if one goes by the book, the differences in length would appear to be based on year, not model.

Jim

Series 2 USA 1750 GTV (in Series 1 European clothing)
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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-01-2009, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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All,
Wow, great thanks. So I guess I need a box from a 1750 Series 2 or a Spider box 73 or older. Rich seems to think it can be fixed so I'll pull it next week and go from there. I'd rather have a rebuilt box anyway so I'm looking to go that route. Thanks to all who contributed!

Jim Hart
71 GTV
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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-01-2009, 07:57 PM
Although my pictures clearly show a difference between series 1 GTVs and Spiders there is really no telling what was original and what was retrofitted sometime in the last 40 years. I've got to believe that as long as the tube and shaft and steering column are matched it wouldn't really matter which one you use.

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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-04-2009, 12:11 PM
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on the whole, anything goes. As long as you fit the correct shaft that goes with it. My main concern is usually wether the ignition switch is left sided or right sided. After that, when you fit up the plastic ignition / light switch covers, you might find that they interfere with the steering wheel, or that there is quite some space between the covers and the wheel.
Then, after that, you might discover that there are basically two types of steering wheels. One with a short boss, and one with a long boss. The boss here being the protruding part on the back of the wheel, where the spline is in. One will fit the other, but the other will not fit the one, if you get my drift.
Then, fourth series Spiders: they have a different boss, with many splines. Also almost always ZF, which cannot be economically restored, so you don't want that. always go for a Burman.
Anyway, if you want a steering box from a junker: Always rip EVERYTHING out, box, shaft, lock, and covers. That way, you will always be OK.
We don't have U jointed shafts here. Holy grail for the racers, as you can then lengthen the shaft, when sitting almost on the back seat, without the steering wheel up near the mirror. We adjust the pickup halfway the shaft, and then the shaft can be lowered. Cool.


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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 06:46 AM
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Resurrecting an old thread I'm hoping someone can help - I picked up a spare burman box on ebay as a punt, not described all that well. It was cheap, so I bought it, for spares. It is from a Berlina I think as the shaft is roughly an inch longer than the box from my 72 Gtv (European). Both are solid shafted, no UJ's.

I've taken it apart and the heical groove on the shaft is in a lot better condition than the one from my car. So I'm considering using this Berlina assembly in my Gtv.

Can anyone confirm that the only difference that this will present be the fact that my "Personal" deep dished steering wheel will sit that extra inch or so towards the driver & that there will be the equivalent inch or so gap between the back of the steering wheel & the plastic steering cowling?

Having never driven this car, I'm not sure but am I right in thinking that having the steering wheel an inch closer is no bad thing anyway?
Is there anything obvious that could be used to bridge the gap between the back of the steering wheel and the switch cowling?

I've compared the two shafts and asides from length, there are no other differences ie steering lock slot etc appear identical..

Many thanks, Tom
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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 12:51 AM
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Anyone able to advise on the above question? Tia
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