How to remove bolt from chassis-attached clutch mechanism - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-14-2017, 06:52 PM Thread Starter
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How to remove bolt from chassis-attached clutch mechanism

Hello Alfisti: For a 101.23 Giulia Spider, I'm having difficulty removing the long bolt from the chassis-attached clutch mechanism lever that allows pivoting of the clutch engagement rod from the pedal to actuate the clutch pressure plate and disc.
I attach a "bit-on-the-dark-side picture of this lever. I've tried heat and penetrating liquid, and gentle tapping with a hammer without success. Any help is appreciated.

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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 06:19 AM
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There's a bushing inside which is intended to rotate. I bet the bolt is rusted/corroded to the bushing. Use heat, penetrant, appropriate force? If hitting, back up the other side with something so you don't tear it all out of the floor.
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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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I guess you're saying "keep doing what you're doing" with PATIENCE.
Thanks, Nick
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 08:18 AM
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Your parts manual TAV 54 Brakes should show you the components. Basically what you have are multiple surfaces that need to break loose.. The bolt rides through a steel "spacer" or sleeve that is designed to be locked in place by the bolt that runs through the toggle. The toggle has a bronze bush on both sides of this spacer rides on. Chances are the bolt is rusted/frozen on the spacer and the spacer is locked onto the bronze bushings. It's going to be very testy to get a penetrant to migrate through the entire length of the bolt and/or spacer if it has never been taken out. Heat (propane) and penetrant cycles will eventually break things loose but it might take days or weeks to make progress. The best penetrant I have found is a 50% acetone/ 50% Automatic transmission fluid(ATF) mixture. As further advice, I would try to stabilize the metal ears it is all attached to as much as possible to keep them from deforming. Patience is a virtue in this case. The worst case scenario might be to cut both ends of bolt off to pull the toggle off and then work at it on a bench. That is the most dire solution as finding another bolt might prove to be impossible and cutting through the hardened bolt would be particularly difficult. Enclosed are some photos of what the assembly looks like.
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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks so much for your excellent explanation and pictures.

Regards,
Nick
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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 09:21 AM
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As a further aside, Nick, the sleeve or spacer is fitted to the toggle in hand BEFORE it is located on the ears.. another way of saying the holes in the ears will only accommodate removing the bolt as the holes are too small to drive the spacer AND the bolt through frozen together. Ergo, your task is really to get the bolt freed up from the spacer which involves getting the penetrant to migrate the entire length of the spacer which causes the heartburn. I think you knew that but just reinforcing the message...and you might want to direct your heat along the entire length of the bolt. Heat is only enough to finitely expand the metals .. you don't need a whole lot .. just enough to burn your fingers to the touch.

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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 09:43 AM
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I would add that one should use an electric heat gun, rather than a torch.
Especially after adding acetone to the area.......

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks...
Nick
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 10:15 AM
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If things get dire, I wonder if an option would be to cut the "ears" with a Dremel so you could remove the assembly and work at it on the work bench. Once everything is separated you could weld the "ears" back on and clean up the welds with a sanding disc in a grinder, and as long as you can weld, would be hardly noticeable ...

Just a thought before selling the horrid car becomes an option ...
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks...
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 02:42 PM
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The bolt has more slop in the sleeve than the sleeve has in the bronze bushings so it is more likely to move first. If you get it to nudge, you are best to keep the heat and penetrant on and go back and forth with the bolt instead of one direction out. It's one step out and two steps back. Keep the nut on as long as you can as you tap tap tap.
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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your encouraging words...
Nick
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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 05:28 PM
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Once, years ago, I had the same issue. The bolt head indicated it was an 8.8, not too hard. I spread the chassis arms enough to get a saber saw in and cut through the bolt on each end inside the chassis arms. First cut was difficult with a "spreader" block hammered in place. Second was easier.
Once out, I used a hudraulic press to RUIN the lever arm assembly enough so I then fitted another I had. By then I had lost patience. Today I probably would have applied hydraulic pressure, heat and liberal PB Blaster over more time and avoided ruining the part. Harder to find good spares now.
From my experience.


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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-15-2017, 07:11 PM
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I've got a spare to part with ..patience .patience.. patience.. The bolt will come out. The next step is the sleeve and you MUST NOT hammer on the end of it with a hardened drift or even a press ( use a brass drift and heat and oil) as that process will bite you in the left buttock because any amount of mushrooming (so little it's not detectible with a the bare eye) the ends of the sleeve will make it that much more difficult (translated=impossible) to drive it through because the clearances are so tight with the bronze bushings/sleeve and the result will be a tightening rather than loosening of the sleeve.......keep after it and report back in a week or so..

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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 11:12 AM
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This is just an idea,might not work,and be difficult to do in situ,but if you'll notice in Ricks pictures,his toggle has a zerk fitting,which is a great idea,mine doesn't. Does it seem feasible to you that a hole can be drilled and tapped in the toggle for a zerk fitting,but use penetrant in the hole first(or through the fitting itself under pressure if a plunger could be figured out)? Another question for the gurus is would there be any benefit to eliminate the sleeve and brass bushings and just use a needle bearing or roller bearing on each end of the toggle?Could be sealed bearings as well(no grease fitting)? Phil D
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