What's the estimate cost to restore this car - Page 4 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

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post #46 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 12:20 PM
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I prefer at least 3 point seat belts, but that is not really why I'm posting.

DMA all you need for help to get this car back on the road can be found here on this great site, and of course your local Alfa club. I say this because one of the things about Alfisi is they love to talk about Alfas and they absolutely love to help another one get back on the road, so keep doing what you are doing and ask questions.

Scalino1300 made a great point, ie: start on something simple and over time you will improve your mechanical ability and confidence will grow. Don't worry about comments like "don't stuff it up if its a real Veloce" as you can't. All you can do is waste some money and time if you go in the wrong direction. So what, we can't take money with us when we reach our finish line.

Best
Pete
ps: One serious comment, when you get to the welding or starting up phase, please please ensure you have a fire extinguisher in your workshop and handy. Having to stand by and watch the car burn to the ground is the only way you actually can stuff it up .

Most of us have a fire extinguisher mounted in our cars for insurance. They are no more prone to catch fire than any other car, just that we like our cars and want to save them.

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post #47 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I'll try not to mess it up. Now, should I clean the pipes from underneath or buy a new pair? I know I have to get rid of gasoline from the tank, so that's out of the question. However, does the car require a battery? If so, what type? Also, I want to place a radio, so is that possible?

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post #48 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 02:01 PM
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as a 63 1600 owner, werent all 63 1600's "veloce"? or did they sell a single carb version 1600/1300? IDK?
also, dont think they kept records w vin on engines used, so not having the orig # engine it was born with is of no concern, imo
I guess having a 101 1600 is more pure, but isnt a 105 1600 is stonger?

arent there Alfa guys in or near Georgia we can refer him to?
seems to me a solid partner would be a huge asset....maybe someone like Paul?
Alfa parts and other Sports Car Performance Parts
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cheers

Peter Inshaw
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post #49 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 04:50 PM
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101 Veloces

Much like the 750 series, most 101 Spiders used single two-barrel carb engines. The much more rare Veloce models had dual DCOE carbs (not DCO3's), and a variety of other go-fast goodies. For both 750 and 101s it was a subtle hop-up, not a conversion to factory racers, but they were still at the cool end of the spectrum.

In my opinion, there is a great deal more conversation about "matching numbers" than is warranted. Very few people have a car in such a condition that the matching engine becomes the last, determining factor in how much someone pays. It probably matters to a half-dozen cars in the world at any one time. Other cars may, in fact, be matching numbers, but the remainder of their condition elements is what determines, or limits the selling price.

DMA is at the beginning of the learning curve. I hope he finds a local Alfa club, or specialist shop that will take some pity on him, and provide cheerful guidance and encouragement.

Good luck DMA. Have fun.

I still like Abe Lincoln's comment that "if I were given four hours to cut down a tree, I would spend the first three sharpening the axe."


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Originally Posted by pinshaw View Post
as a 63 1600 owner, werent all 63 1600's "veloce"? or did they sell a single carb version 1600/1300? IDK?
also, dont think they kept records w vin on engines used, so not having the orig # engine it was born with is of no concern, imo
I guess having a 101 1600 is more pure, but isnt a 105 1600 is stonger?

arent there Alfa guys in or near Georgia we can refer him to?
seems to me a solid partner would be a huge asset....maybe someone like Paul?
Alfa parts and other Sports Car Performance Parts
be a great start to get in touch with them

cheers

Don P
Carson City, NV

Past Alfas...
59 102 Touring (first Alfa $500 running)
65 Sprint GT (2nd Alfa, $500 daily driver)
102 Sprint (never did anything with it, but wish I had)
74 Berlina (first new car - now certainly rusted into oblivion)
61 Giulietta Spider G-Prod Race Car (where is it now?)
84 Spider Veloce (rarely drove it, so sold it)
86 Quadrifoglio (Dull car - no more 115s for me)
1971 Montreal "The Full Monty". Fair winds and following seas

Current Alfas
59 102 Touring Roadster - restoration complete, enough Alfa for any rational man. Or irrational, for that matter
And past...
Two 1946 Stampe SV4C (c/n 294 "Rocinante" - wife's favorite airplane. RIP), and c/n 235 "La Bon Temps Femme" (gone to a new home, but never forgotten)
Zlin 50LA (+9 -6 gees, titanium spar, 1200 lbs, 260HP rumored to now be in Brazil)
1946 Luscombe 8A
Starduster Too (recently spotted at the Nevada City, CA airport - over 20 years and an entire continent separating it from our stewardship in Binghamton, NY)
1955 Cessna 170B (wife taught me to fly tailwheel in this)

And present...
64 Mooney M20E ("Rambo". My faithful steed for over 30 years) Nearly 50 years old, and just returned from a trip to Argentina in him
Newest in the fleet
1967 Piper Super Cub on Wipline amphibious floats (a true "all terrain vehicle")
2010 Triumph Thunderbird


You can snap roll an Alfa only one time...
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post #50 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-17-2017, 07:19 PM
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Exclamation Shocking revelations!

Perhaps, there was a time with you could get "born-with" engine information, but it must have been some tine ago.

I'm sure that there are some cars (like Gordon's '65 Veloce race car) for which it is possible to know for that the engine is original to the car.

My '64 Giulia Spider, AR 378356; block #00112.06212

According to Fusi, P. 841, this block would have been original to two different VIN ranges of 1962 Giulia Sprints or 1962 Giulia Spiders.

According to Fusi, P. 841, I should have a block with a number within this range: 00112.06849 - 00112.08810

Sweet Mother of Pearl, I can't tell you how this is causing me to wring my hands and lose sleep!

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post #51 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 11:58 AM
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Looking at your pics, it appears you have a very solid car to start with. Perhaps the place to start is to finish either installing the engine, or removing it. If its coming out, once its out, roll the car out side and clean the engine bay. A little simple green to degrease everything, then perhaps some polish and wax in the engine bay. From there, give the rest of the car a wash, polish and wax. Its about the easiest way to get acquainted with the car. Will it get dirty again? You bet, but this wasn't about having a finished product, it was about simply getting your hands dirty and spending some simple time with the car.

Yes, it would be a good idea to replace all the rubber hoses, they are easy to find and hot horribly expensive. The fuel tank can be drained. It wouldn't be a bad idea to have a look to see what the inside of the tank looks like. Find the fuel sender access cover in the floor of the trunk and open it. From there remove the sender and have a look. There is a chance that it might be fine. (I expected the worst with my '59 Sprint, I was surprised to find that it had a little varnish and that was it. It sat in a barn for 30 years untouched. You never know what you will find till to have a look.) From there, start with the brake system, new brake pads, and rubber lines. With that done, see if you can bleed the brakes (assuming the brake pedal just goes to the floor now. If it builds pressure, I'd just replace the flex lines and bleed the system and see what the fluid looks like when its bled. If the fluid is clear, and the pedal is firm, nothing more than going through and replacing the seals in the calipers and master will be needed.) Start small and work toward bigger things as you gain confidence.

Yes the car will need a battery, they are easy enough to source. I would not replace the radio, especially if its an original radio. You will likely end up having to cut into the dash to make it work, and that will devalue the car. An Ipod might be a better solution.

Honestly, I think you have a fairly complete car there. Ask questions if you come across something that you aren't sure about. Do some homework and try and learn about what you have. Be patient and take things one at a time. It looks daunting, take tons of pictures, you might find that its not as hard as it looks.

Will
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post #52 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thank for the advice. I would like to inform that there is no radio in the car. Although I would like to place one, so I can listen to some fine music. So, What type of radio would be best recommended for?

DMA
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post #53 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMA View Post
Thank for the advice. I would like to inform that there is no radio in the car. Although I would like to place one, so I can listen to some fine music. So, What type of radio would be best recommended for?
I am old so I say no radio, but I understand you are young and like my kids, you need noise constantly around you . A period radio will likely cost you more than a modern unit but fitting a radio in these old cars is nothing like installing them in a modern car that was actually designed for a radio.

Fitting a radio in old cars requires considerable engineering and in some case metal work as you have to make brackets, etc. The most important thing, whatever you choose, is to NOT cut any metal or trim parts of the car as that will be hard to fix if you ever decide to sell.

It might be easier to carry an iPod and head phones but that won't impress the passengers ...
Pete

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post #54 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I am old so I say no radio, but I understand you are young and like my kids, you need noise constantly around you . A period radio will likely cost you more than a modern unit but fitting a radio in these old cars is nothing like installing them in a modern car that was actually designed for a radio.

Fitting a radio in old cars requires considerable engineering and in some case metal work as you have to make brackets, etc. The most important thing, whatever you choose, is to NOT cut any metal or trim parts of the car as that will be hard to fix if you ever decide to sell.

It might be easier to carry an iPod and head phones but that won't impress the passengers ...
Pete
In the US, where I live, there are laws in certain states that forbids drivers to wear headphones or earphones.

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post #55 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMA View Post
In the US, where I live, there are laws in certain states that forbids drivers to wear headphones or earphones.
Fair enough. Quite sensible.

Pete

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post #56 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 10:25 PM
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There are options for music lovers (whose vehicles do not have radios/stereos and speakers w/o cutting a hole in the dash.

My son has a very nice Bluetooth speaker system that links to his iPhone 6S and the quality and volume are very good.

This is just one of many alternatives:

Out of Sight Audio - Bluetooth Audio Stereo Radio for Vintage Classic Cars

Check it out, but DO NOT CUT UP YOUR DASH!

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post #57 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 08:30 AM
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post #58 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks GTD

More photos will be released soon. Along with the VIN number.

By the way, what type of oil is for the 1600 engine?

DMA

Last edited by DMA; 03-19-2017 at 01:13 PM.
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post #59 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
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Thank for the advice. I would like to inform that there is no radio in the car. Although I would like to place one, so I can listen to some fine music. So, What type of radio would be best recommended for?
I'd say you are getting well ahead of yourself. Get the car running and driving well, then maybe think about music. I'd recommend not installing anything in the car and simply using a stand-alone battery powered bluetooth speakers.
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post #60 of 64 (permalink) Old 03-25-2017, 04:03 AM Thread Starter
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I have returned from my journey.

The VIN# (on the car) is AR*377929*
and here are more pics
I look between the wheels and I found rust...
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