My 1964 Giulia Spider Abnormale Restoration - Page 6 - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums
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post #76 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Aluminum brake drums

I'm about to send my aluminum rear brake drums out to be relined and I thought I would get some advice on something, beforehand.

On both drums there is the ferrous spacer-type disc that is loosely-attached by two rounded over aluminum pins. Both of these discs are rather rusty and I was wondering if anyone does anything to these to de-rust them?

Should these be more-tightly affixed to the drums?
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post #77 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 08:36 PM
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I have media cleaned them and then used an Eastwood product (check with them) that gave them a black oxide type finish. Looked good and did nor re-rust.


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post #78 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
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Gordon,

Did you remove them from the drums and then clean/coat them?

Oklahoma SNO Alfa Chapter Director
'64/66 Giulia Spider finally back in the garage and painted
'75 Olandase Blu Alfetta Sedan 2.0 & '88 Red Milano Verde; both long gone and dearly missed
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post #79 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-03-2017, 08:59 PM
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No you want to avoid that. They can be difficult to re-attach and still look original.


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and sometimes, CONFUSED AND INCORRECT, but Larry helps me out.
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post #80 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 07:53 AM
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Hi R.,

The Veloce Air canister is at the sandblaster.
It is solid with no holes so should clean up well.
I will have it pad printed with the Fispa yellow lettering as factory.
They are exceedingly rare, however, the Repo is dead nuts on.

Good to finally find one, did you?

Regards,
Austin
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post #81 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 09:18 AM
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Gordon's right about test fitting headers. While after-market headers fit a lot better than in previous years, it's always prudent to test-fit before having them coated or even applying HT paint (ask me how I know . . .). Fitting headers to Giuliettas with Webers is a special challenge because the engine bay is a pretty tight space. The received wisdom is to put the headers in place before fitting the cylinder head. One of our friends found, however, that you can fit Veloce headers on a installed engine if you take the exhaust side engine mount loose and jack the engine up. Just sayin'.
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Jim . . . '72 Super 1300, '70, 1750GTV, 2nd series,
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post #82 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Well, confession is good for the soul...

Well, confession is good for the soul...

I did a test fit of the headers against the block and it was really good.

However, I did not even think about checking to see how the engine with attached headers (no way to do it anyway) would fit into the car before taking them to Jet-Hot in OKC.

I can just hear it now.....

In light of my coming clean about this, I need a host of you guys to send me a PM with your cell phone numbers so I can have you on speed dial when its time to wed the engine to the Spider

Ray

Oklahoma SNO Alfa Chapter Director
'64/66 Giulia Spider finally back in the garage and painted
'75 Olandase Blu Alfetta Sedan 2.0 & '88 Red Milano Verde; both long gone and dearly missed
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post #83 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
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Reworked Normale air filter canister

Austin,

Refer to Posts 15-17 of this thread for photos of my reworked Normale air filter canister.

Is there anything Bill Gillham can't do with one of these cars?!

Oklahoma SNO Alfa Chapter Director
'64/66 Giulia Spider finally back in the garage and painted
'75 Olandase Blu Alfetta Sedan 2.0 & '88 Red Milano Verde; both long gone and dearly missed
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post #84 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 11:35 AM
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The places headers confuse fitters are at the change of angle between head and block. If the bottom edge of the flanges interfere with the block, they will leak at the head flanges. This can be due to thick flanges, or over-milled head.
Once installed in the chassis, headers bolted to the head, you may run into interference (or VERY close contact) with components as they pass through the chassis. Then, they may not fit at the collector but usually force here does no harm. Now, is the collector outlet roughly parallel to the floor pans? Again, a hydraulic jack can do wonders here.
Then with luck, running the car a few very-hot to cool cycles and they will stabilize in the force fit position.
The trick with NEW headers is a dummy( EMPTY) block and head only temporarily mounted (with engine mounts) in the chassis. Lots of room to make "adjustments" with final fit left for final assembly.
From my experience.


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Gordon Raymond
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and sometimes, CONFUSED AND INCORRECT, but Larry helps me out.
Now:
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post #85 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 12:51 PM
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"In light of my coming clean about this, I need a host of you guys to send me a PM with your cell phone numbers so I can have you on speed dial when its time to wed the engine to the Spider"

Getting the engine in a Giulietta is a no-brainer. You just affix your chain hoist to a rafter, attach the engine and then climb on top of the engine. While standing atop, raise the engine to a height that will allow it to clear the engine compartment. Now that the engine clears, have a friend position the spider under underneath the engine. Using you body weight to shift he engine angle, lower the engine and yourself into the engine compartment. Quick and easy if you're agile enough.

Jim . . . '72 Super 1300, '70, 1750GTV, 2nd series,
'62, Lancia Flaminia Zagato3c, 2nd series
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post #86 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 01:11 PM
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Hi R.,

Old race photos show the rear end up when changing engines.
this is preferred geometry

Indeed, nice work,
Regards,
Austin
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post #87 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 01:56 PM
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Engine re-fitting

Quote:
Originally Posted by Raimondo View Post
I need a host of you guys to send me a PM with your cell phone numbers so I can have you on speed dial when its time to wed the engine to the Spider
Send airline ticket and I'll come over and help you perform the nuptials

Some good progress made there Ray, well done !!

Ciao
Greig
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post #88 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-05-2017, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Talking

Greig,

While I have performed a host of weddings over the years, this one might be the most challenging!

With marathon-like bike rides, multi-car restorations and I.T tech activities all occurring at the same time, I'm not sure you could work it into your schedule for your wife to drive you to the airport to catch the plane!

Oklahoma SNO Alfa Chapter Director
'64/66 Giulia Spider finally back in the garage and painted
'75 Olandase Blu Alfetta Sedan 2.0 & '88 Red Milano Verde; both long gone and dearly missed
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post #89 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Dynamat or not

I've been thinking about applying a Dynamat-type material for sound deadening and as a heat barrier on the firewall, floors, and in the doors and rear panels on my Spider. After reading a few posts that seem to infer that it would be of little value for sound deadening on a convertible, I wonder how much heat it might keep out of the interior.

Anyone used this, or a similar product, on a 101 Spider? What difference does it make?

Thanks

Ray

Oklahoma SNO Alfa Chapter Director
'64/66 Giulia Spider finally back in the garage and painted
'75 Olandase Blu Alfetta Sedan 2.0 & '88 Red Milano Verde; both long gone and dearly missed
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post #90 of 108 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 10:10 AM
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Contact Bob Hoy. He used it on multiple restorations. My e-mail forgot ALL my address folder, so you will need to do some BB research.


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Gordon Raymond
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and sometimes, CONFUSED AND INCORRECT, but Larry helps me out.
Now:
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