Painting or Powder Coating a Radiator

[59Sprint]

Hello. I have had the radiator in my 1959 101 Sprint stripped, rodded out and repaired by a local radiator shop. They were able to save the radiator in pretty much original condition. I have straightened out the fins (which must be steel because they attract a magnet) in some areas and the unit looks good.

I did not have the radiator shop paint the radiator, so it is now in bare metal and I'm trying to decide the best way to paint it. I have been told that the cooling fins and core should be painted with "radiator" paint which doesn't inhibit heat transfer and that the other parts of the radiator can be painted with enamel. Also, I have heard of guys having old radiators powder coated.

Has anybody had experience with painting or powder coating a radiator?
thanks, ns

[lowmileage]

You don't powder coat a radiator, do ya'?

[Mikes4C1300]

Would the solder in the tank seams survive the heat of the powder coat process? If so, could the radiator ever be taken apart again for cleaning and then resoldered? I, for one, polished the brass on mine. Otherwise, I'd stick with paint.

Mike Hollinger
Atlanta

[rcess]

I've always used Eastman's radiator paint on the core and enamel on the tanks.

[alfabits]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcess I've always used Eastman's radiator paint on the core and enamel on the tanks.

[rcess]

Yea, I got it wrong.

[AlfaDuc]

It's best to use only a thin coat of paint on the fins of the radiator in order to get the best heat transfer (thick coatings = poor heat transfer / less cooling). The radiator specific paint from Eastwood is formulated to dry to a relatively thin coat, which is what you want.
Jim

[59Sprint]

Thanks for the input everyone. I like the idea of polishing the brass, however, the tank has areas of solder on the brass and I don't know what that would look like when polished. If anyone knows, please let me know.

I'm going to steer clear of powder coating, although there is an outfit in L.A. that claims to powder coat vintage car radiators.

I spoke to a local radiator shop who offered to spray the fins/core with some kind of heat porous paint that they use, and then give it back to me to do the enamel work on the tank areas myself. That guy who runs the shop had heard about Eastwood radiator paint, but had no idea what it was like.

I want a proper job, so I'll probably wind up painting the radiator myself. Is the Eastwood aerosol radiator paint good long lasting stuff? Should high temperature primer and enamel be used on the areas that get enamel?

I am repairing a "patina" Sprint so I don't want the radiator to look too new and glossy or it will stick out like a sore thumb in my engine bay. The exterior of the car has the actual orignal blue paint from the factory on it. The paint buffed out pretty well, but it does have it's share of battle scars ... which happens to suit me well.

[PSB]

Hi 59 Sprint..
YOur Sprint sound wounderful!!!! Photos please....... Please....
I have a sprint and others with and with out Patina .. Patina is my Fav!
Here is my Rad in my 750 spyder.
I would get an extra row put in it.

[oldschooleuros]

Powder coating is the superior finishing system, but as mentioned is kind of harsh to less solid materials. Best bet is a good paint job.

[alfabits]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 59Sprint Is the Eastwood aerosol radiator paint good long lasting stuff? Should high temperature primer and enamel be used on the areas that get enamel?

[alfazagato]

Eastwoods is one way to go. I have always used a thin coat of satin black on the core with rather more on the top and bottom tanks.
I was always told that by polishing the brass the heat radiation from the top tank was reduced (does it matter?). I seem to remember from my physics that there was an experiment called Leslie's Cube which proved this.

[AlfaDuc]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 59Sprint Thanks for the input everyone. I like the idea of polishing the brass, however, the tank has areas of solder on the brass and I don't know what that would look like when polished. If anyone knows, please let me know. Polishing the brass tanks is not too difficult, as long as the tanks are not yet attached to the core. This assumes you will use a real buffing wheel, as in Eastwood's catalog, etc. Hand polishing would take a while to get a decent finish, since the metal surface needs to be truly flat. I've done both (painting and polishing), and really like the look of polished tanks. But you will need to re-polish (by hand) every year or two since brass will tarnish. The solder will also polish easily to a bright silver appearance, and can be easily smoothed using fine sand paper. Of course, if you're a concours nut, polished brass tanks are a no-no (not factory original) and will actually deduct points for you no matter how nice they look. I want a proper job, so I'll probably wind up painting the radiator myself. Is the Eastwood aerosol radiator paint good long lasting stuff? Yes, it seems to last pretty well, but it's easily scratched, and does not resist solvents very well. On the other hand, it's easy to touch up with a brush. Should high temperature primer and enamel be used on the areas that get enamel? Not necessary, the Eastwood paint is good enough. I am repairing a "patina" Sprint so I don't want the radiator to look too new and glossy or it will stick out like a sore thumb in my engine bay. The exterior of the car has the actual orignal blue paint from the factory on it. The paint buffed out pretty well, but it does have it's share of battle scars ... which happens to suit me well. The Eastwood paint is "semi-gloss black", and looks correct for the Alfas. It wont look out of place in your engine compartment, but if you're concerned about the radiator looking "too nice", then polishing the tanks is not the way to go.

[david rivkin]

Stuart is right - about Leslie's Cube and in using a satin black paint to create an original-like finish.

If emissivity for a black body radiator is assigned the value 1, then polished brass rates only 0.05, replicating the experimental results created by Sir John Leslie in the 19th Century.

One then might rightly ask, why the "Brass Era" ? Perhaps pride of craftsmanship or decoration or both, during the early years of automotive history. Today, polished brass name plates, signs on buildings and doctors offices still resonate with a feeling of "class".

Yet, as Stuart has pointed out, the lowly spray can of a quality satin black paint, provides both the technical and aesthetic function necessary for automotive use.

David
User of Rust-O-Leum satin black