1750 engine into a Sprint 750B 1959

[Tacconi]

Hello
A couple off days ago I started the engine in the car, but did not run it to long as the temperature gauge did not worke, I have a orginal 105 sender to the orginal 750 instrument, should this worke, or must I replace anything?

Regards
Totti

[Gordon Raymond]

I believe it will work. Both styles of sending units work the same way, by resistance. I believe the newer style sending units are 8 ohms cold, and so are the older ceramic units. The gauge wire, shorted to ground, -0- resistance, should cause full gauge deflection. If not, the fault is either in the wire or gauge itself.

[Tacconi]

Hello
Thank you for reply.
Everything is ok from the gauge to the sender, I have only tryed 2 used senders so maybe I will have to buy a new sender..
Regards

[Brad750f]

I also have a orginal 105 sender to the orginal 750 instrument in my 750b with 1750. Under most conditions the needle does not come off the peg. When running hard, and 80 degree OAT, the needle comes up about 1/2 scale. One of these days I'll try to calibrate the gage, but I've not worried about it to much, Alfas run cool. My radiator was re-cored, and all hoses were new when I installed a fresh rebuilt 1750.
Brad B
Escondido,Ca

[Gordon Raymond]

Thanks! You guys have likely answered the question. There IS a difference between the ceramic 750 sending unit and the plastic 1750 version. All I remember is the new ones measure about 8 ohms cold.

[Tacconi]

Hello again
Things are crawling forward :-) after some adjustments the engine runs and i got the brakes bleeded.
I hope to get the car painted before christmas this year, I am only missing some minor things now.
I have attached some photos I took in June.
Regards
Chris

[alfazagato]

Just as a matter of interest, Frank Gabrielli and I checked various senders with a variable resistance and found that a sender with an internal resistance of 300 Ohms allowed the needle to register zero. 150 Ohms was needed to get the needle to the mid-point of 190 degrees and 25 Ohms was all that was needed for a full needle deflection. I am trying to find a sender with these properties and will keep you posted.

[Tacconi]

Hello
After starting to try and pre fit things before painting I realise that I was missing som mouldings, one is for fitting the door rubber on the sill both sides , the other is the trim moulding on the front wing RHS, the one I need is in casted aluminium I think. se photos.
Does anyone have this and my want to sell?
I hope the car is getting painted during the winter.
Regards
Chris

[Tacconi]

Hello
There have been som progress during the last months, the car have been painted and it have had a wheel alignment, so this weekend I got it home.
I have just started to mount some things back on and then I saw that I am missing som plastic protection between some of the parts like the front grills, the numberplate holder, and the side indicators on the wing, anyone know where to get this?
I have attached some photos of the car.

Reagards

[Subtle]

Coming along well +++

[AlfistiSA]

Hi Tacconi

The original rubber on the 101 Sprints consisted of a moulded profile which was fitted around the heart grille, the number plate bracket or aeroplane whichever is fitted to your car, around the reflector bases under the larger tail lights and on the ends of the rear bumper corners, (door handles & tail lights too). The "chip cutter" mesh side grilles never got any rubber gasketing.

I use a thin "U" profile neoprene rubber, which is only available 300kms from where I live. I cut to size and then using a contact adhesive I fit it to the trim bits. I glue the ends of the rubber profile together with super glue.

You need around 3.5m to 4m per 101 Sprint, depnding if you have the aeroplane or the square numberplate holder.

Yes, I fit it to all the trim, even though it's not strictly original.

It's been discussed on this forum before, try doing a thread search on grille gasketing or similar.

Ciao
Greig

[Tacconi]

Hello
I am now using brake wires from a bicycle cutting the plastic off and using this, it looks orginal.
I will take a photo later.
regards

[veloce2008]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tacconi Hello This weekend I made a try to fit the 1750 engine ( just the engine block) into my 750B Sprint, it was a tight fit with the engine rubber mounts, but the biggest problem was that the engine touch the brake master cylinder. I have bought the engine mounts with rubbers from Classic Alfa in England. The engine mount rubbers are 48mm high ( without the studs). I have attached some photos of the problem, and the mounts. Does anyone have some good ideas? Kind regards Chris Norway

[Subtle]

Have you thought about using Centerline mounts for putting a 1750 or Two-liter into a 101?

No problems with my Spider and will be using them in putting the 2 L into my Sprint.

However, the sump does hang down low, but the one for the Sprint has a 1600 pan and will provide an half-inch more clearance.

[Tacconi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by veloce2008 BESIDE the problem you had with the master cylinder at this time, did you anticipate any problem with the alternator touching the drivebox column ? This is the challenge I have and do not know how to fix it .