#886 (permalink)  
Old 09-20-2009, 07:53 AM
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Getting Alfastop to reply to an email in my experience is near-impossible and has been for years. The best way is to call direct to the U.K.

Last edited by gowanusvin; 09-22-2009 at 11:12 AM.
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  #887 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2009, 10:20 AM
A V A V is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pathung View Post
Thanks AV, I would STILL appreciate your posting the clamp photo here for comparison purposes.
Pat

Sorry for the delay but I have been away to the Goodwood Revival!

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To compensate for the delay, I will send a few pictures of some nice Alfas

Regards

A V
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  #888 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2009, 10:43 AM
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Pat

As promised !

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A V
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  #889 (permalink)  
Old 09-22-2009, 12:09 PM
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You've OVER-compensated! Thank you. And nice bracket! Mine's missing the rubber padding, which I'll need to rivet back on.
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  #890 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2009, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by pcleemans View Post
Patrick, I got the clamp from eBay, thanks again for the tip.
Always nicer to have an original piece than a repro !

I also found 2 spare Borrani wheels for the Giulia Spider 101, I only need one so if anyone is interested just let me know.

By the way does anyone have experience with Alfastop in the UK ?
I've ordered some parts and sent a seperate message but no reply ... :-/
I am in Holland, it is possible to arrange shipping oversees for the wheel but have no idea how much that will cost. If interested just send a pm.
Philip
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  #891 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2009, 04:10 PM
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Hi
Pat,Gordon, ALFAJAY

I can't keep up with you guys. By the time I get to offer some help your pass the problem. Gordon and Jay thanks for your help. I contacted Dean Russel in MI and I got a veloce bell crank. I still had a problem though because I have a Lucas starter and with the Centerline motor mounts I had to bend the linkage out of the way. Right now I seam
to have a hood clearance problem. It seams mighty close under there. I'm afraid the engine torquing will bump the hood. Does any one have any input for me or am I just paranoid. I really don't know how to navigate BB to keep up with you guys. I wish I could add jpegs to show my progress. Maybe I could mail them to one of you.

Thanx
Meatbird29
Al Conforti
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  #892 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2009, 07:41 PM
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Two easy solutions. Are you using the Centerline DROPPED engine mounts? Plenty of hood clearance with them. You can even get TALL 2L in there!
Swap your starter for the Bosch unit from any 1600 or early 2L. The solenoid clears the linkage easily, it's a better starter, and will fit any application that uses the earlier 101/105 ring gear. If the linkage push rod is not straight, it may bow. (Not good).
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  #893 (permalink)  
Old 09-27-2009, 10:28 PM
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Tall Two-Liters are good.
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1962 Giulietta Spider: Grafite Grigio: "Tuned" 2L.
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  #894 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2009, 12:41 PM
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Gordon

The thought of having to change motor mounts is a nightmare. It was such a struggle to get them in in the first place, Can someone give me a procedure that would cause the least amount of pain. I was actually contemplating removeing the studs from the block and using cap screws. I really not racing this car so I don't think helicoils are required.

On a different subject Pat I know you went to an Denso alternator how did you get it to without interfering with the steering box. Did the lower motor mounts Gordon talks about allow it to clear? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanx
Meatbird29
Al Conforti
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  #895 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2009, 08:20 PM
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[QUOTE=meatbird

The thought of having to change motor mounts is a nightmare. It was such a struggle to get them in in the first place, Can someone give me a procedure that would cause the least amount of pain.

Here is the way I do it.FIRST IF YOU HAVE THE DROPPED CENTERLINE MOUNTS, you are OK! If not, slightly relieve tension from one or the other mounts with a flat board under the pan on the mount-to-be-removed-side, and jack up enough so you see a little lift. Remove the nut lock washer and washer from the stub frame hole on one end of the mount rubber. Jack a little more until you notice the stud in the rubber move up in the slot. The engine is now tipping towards the tight mount on the other side. Unscrew the rubber from the aluminum mount on the engine. Some wiggle and pry may be required. Unbolt the aluminum mount from the block. Reinstall by reversing the operation. Lower the jack all the way before replacing the washer, lock washer and nut on the rubber stud in the stub frame. Repeat the operation for the other side, repositioning board and jack. If a Veloce, the carburetor support rod must be removed to get it out of the way. With stubborn issues, I have loosened the transmission rear support cross-member (with a jack under it) to allow more wiggle/pry room. This may or may not help, but it did once and that was enough.
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  #896 (permalink)  
Old 09-28-2009, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meatbird29 View Post
On a different subject Pat I know you went to an Denso alternator how did you get it to without interfering with the steering box. Did the lower motor mounts Gordon talks about allow it to clear? Any help would be appreciated.
Al, it may be that the mounts made a difference, though the engine's been tipped this way and that to make the headers clear, I really don't know anymore; even though we later changed to a lower Volvo mount on the pass. side, the alternator never came into contact with the steering box even with the original Centerline set. Looking at the photos, however, you'll note that we inserted an aluminum spacer between the mount and the chassis to move the engine laterally slightly to allow more room for the headers; this may have helped keep the alternator away from the steering box.

Take a look at the photos below and let me know if you need additional angles - it sure is packed to the bring under the hood there. The fourth photo is the passenger side mount, beneath the carburetors.
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  #897 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2009, 04:12 AM
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Meatbird...do remove the studs from the block and do Helicoil the holes...... I do this as standard to all engines as it makes life so easy. Cap bolts are fine too and with a trolley jack to tilt the engine whilst being suspended in the bay, positioning is a 5 minute job.
As an aside, I take 2mm from each face of the two mounts and have circular aluminium shims which I can then use to fine tune the position of the engine. Best of luck.
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'56 Giulietta Spider, '57 Giulietta Spider Veloce, '57 Giulietta Lightweight Sprint Veloce, '60 SZ, '68 GTA, '76 2000 Spider
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  #898 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2009, 07:38 AM
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Stuart

What is the spray-paint you use on the outside of the engine?

Thanks,

Bob
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  #899 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2009, 10:06 AM
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Nice pictures Patrick! Another great job of stuffing 3 Lbs of Italian sausage into a 2 Lb. bag.
Bob, Alfa engines are usually not painted while older Ferrari's are. The closest to the Ferrari silver paint, that holds up, is Harley-Davidson silver case paint. Available at your local HD dealer!
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  #900 (permalink)  
Old 09-29-2009, 02:16 PM
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Bob, have you taken possession of the Sprint yet? You should start a new thread on it so we can all read about your progress with it - looks like a fun project!
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